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Belay without slack  Facebook
 

 
 
Drift 8C by Martin Stráník  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMartin Stráník, #2 in the WCH in 2007, has done his seventh 8C, Drift in Moravský kras. Kateřina Stráník

"So, that went quite fast, 2 days. Great addition by Adam, maybe just 8B+, but i spent quite a lot of time on this type of rock what makes moves easier."

 
 
9a FA by Diego Fourbet (16)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDiego Fourbet has done the FA of a 9a extension to La Proue Debridee 8c+ in Roche de Rame which he did last year. Diego started climbing being three years old and since age six, he has been training with a club. More info on his Insta. The 16 year old is the son of the famous French climbing couple, Nathalie (ex-Richer) and Olivier Fourbet.

"Antony Lamiche bolted the project six years ago. I spend six session on the route but the first part of the route is the same that a route I did last year. I have always traveled in Europe with my parents where I climb and boulder in different areas. Since I am 14 I study in a special class to climb more (CIE DE BRIANCONS).

 
 
Breakthroughs and tough starts 2019  Facebook
 

Last year, Anze Peharc was #16 as his best result out of six World Cups. In the last event, the WCH in Innsbruck he was #55. This year he has been 15 - 4 - 3 and overall he is #4 in the World Cup. The big breakthrough last year was made by Gregor Vezonik and interestingly, both are from Slovenia.

Among the female, we have not seen any such sensational results overall but Lucka Rakovec's 16 - 4 - 12, sticks out. She is just 17 and also from Slovenia.

The one struggling the most is Jakob Schubert. He is one of the best Lead competition climbers in the history and he was #3 in the last Bouldering comp in 2018. His average results in the first three Boulder WCs in 2019 are 31 after having been; 47 - 27 - 18.

Also Sean McColl, who has won 13 medals in Bouldering WC's including one silver last year, has had a relatively bad start, 24 - 33 - 14.

 
 
Almost perfect qually and semi match for the female  (2) Facebook
 

It was an almost perfect match in between the qualification and the semi for the female. Janja Garnbret and Katja Kadic, who won their qualification groups, were #1 and #2 also in the semi, being the only ones topping all four problems. They were followed by Akiyo Noguchi and Jessica Pilz who were #3 and #5 in the qualifications. The last two spots into the final took Petra Klingler and Futaba Ito, who were #3 and #9 in the qualification.

Interesting is that nine female did not do any boulder in the semifinal so it seems there is a rather big gap in between the Top-20 best female boulderers in the world. Complete results

 
 
Many up-side-down results in the male semi  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAnze Peharc won the semifinal ahead of Tomoa Narasaki and Kokoro Fujii, the only ones to make two boulders. Half of the field did not do one including Jakob Schubert #18 and Jongwon Chon #15 who were the Top-2 in their qualification group. Tomoa and Kokoro were also Top-3 in their respectively group as Aleksy Rubtsov who was #6 in the semi.

Interesting is that Manuel Cornu and Sasha Lehman were #4 and #5 in the semi coming from being ranked #19 and #15 in the qualification. Anze Peharc was #11 in the semi so there were several up-side-down results from the qualifications, where 16 topped all five boulders. Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

 
 
Chongqing finals  Facebook
 

 
 
Chongqing semifinal  Facebook
 

 
 
Super Finale 9a by Seb Bouin  Facebook
 

Seb Bouin has done another 9a, Super Finale in Rawyl in just four tries. It total, he has now done some 35 routes 9a to 9b.

"It was the most extreme conditions of the year. First day we only climbed one route, it was cold, super windy, and waterfall from the crag was falling on the belayer... Second day we were stronger in the head, and it worked"

 
 
Garnbret and Kadic from Slovenia win qually  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSlovenia did dominate the female qualification in Chongqing where Janja Garnbret and Katja Kadic won their respectively group. The two million country also had Lucka Rakovec as #3 and Vita Lukan as #11. Interesting is that the Speed specialists Anna Tsyganova and Anouck Jaubert set personal best being #31 and #39. Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke - Jain Kim #7.

 
 
Kruder is out in Chongqing  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra did cancel his trip due to being sick and Jernej Kruder, who won in Moscow, was #34 in Chongqing. For some reason the Slovenian failed to even get a zone on the first boulder which some 60 % topped in his group. Later Kruder did the remaining four boulders in just seven tries. (c) Eddie Fowke

Winners of the two groups were Tomoa Narasaki and Jakob Schubert needeing only six respective seven tries for the five boulders. In total, six from Japan into the Top-20 semifinal and once again all ten male from Japan among Top-31. Complete results

 
 
New female Speed World record - 7.101  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureYiLing Song has set a new World Record by 7.101 seconds in the Quarterfinal run, dispatching the old mark of 7.32 held by both Iuliia Kaplina and Anouck Jaubert. Song continued winning as she also did in the first event. (c) Eddie Fowke

Among the male, Alifan Muhammed won his first event. His fastest time was 5.91 which actually was slower then the all the Top-5 best times. Two weeks ago Akifan was #24 and his best in 2018 was #6. Video of the finals. Complete results

 
 
Dolorock Climbing Festival 2019  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIt’s Dolorock time! From May 24 to 26 the seventh edition of the Dolorock Climbing Festival will take place all around the Three Peaks. For three days, there will be climbing, celebrations and discussions at the cross-language and cross-border event. Over time, Dolorock has become one of the largest sports climbing events in Europe. Join and be part of it!

Program:
Friday, 24/5 at 9pm: drive-in cinema at the Dobbiaco indoor climbing centre.

Saturday, 25/5 from 10am to 5pm: Dolorock Red Point Fight at the climbing crags in Val di Landro. 7:30pm: award ceremony with many non-cash prizes. Afterwards party, dance (Pink Armada), food and drinks. Free camping.

Sunday, 26/5: climbers’ brunch and Yoga for climbers.

 
 
6.62 by Kokoro Fujii and 9.46 by Janja Garnbret  (13) Facebook
 

During the Speed qualification in Chongqing, we can see that both the Specialists and the Boulderers, set new standards. Kokoro Fujii did 6.62 which is the second fastest ever, after Mickael Mawem at 6.34, by a none-Speed specialist. Manuel Cornu was runner up at 6.68 and Jan Hojer third at 6.76 among the big names. Another eight did were below 7.2 seconds, so we are talking a big general improvement.

Among the female, Janja Garnbret set a new personal best with 9.46 being #3 among the none-Speed specialist after Elena Krasovskaya at 8.96 and Sol Sa at 9.41. Kyra Kondie was fourth at 9.56 followed by 16 year old Oceania Mackenzie at 9.64. Akiyo Noguchi, Petra Klingler and Julia Chanourdie did also go below 10 seconds. Complete results

 
 
No bolt problem in Leonidio when Kyle died  Facebook
 

Rock & Ice has made a nice portrait of Kyle Roseborrough who died in Leonidio ten days ago "when an anchor failed as he lowered."

It should be mentioned that it is not clear what happened as no problem with the anchor bolts have been reported. Kyle (45) was a very experienced 8b climber.

 
 
Chongqing WC 26-28/4  Facebook
 

The Chongqing World Cup starts on Friday with Speed qualification and Finals. Interesting is that Adam Ondra once again skip Speed and that Shauna Coxsey and Miho Nonaka are not present. Nonaka has been injured but is scheduled for competing in Wujiang the following weekend. Coxsey has the last week posting swimming, bouldering and surfing pictures on her Insta from Marocco.

Sunday GMT +8
09.30-11.45 Men & Women Bouldering Semi-finals [LIVE]
17.00-18.30 Men Bouldering Final [LIVE]
18.30-20.00 Women Bouldering Final [LIVE]

 
 
Missing Link 8c+ 4th go by Babsi Zangerl  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBabsi Zangerl reports on Insta that she has done Atlantic 8c and Missing Link 8c+ in Voralpsee. (c) Jacopo Larcher who just did Speed Integrale 9a.

First day she checked the moves twice and then after a rest day she sent it directly after placing the draws and checking the moves again.

"I couldn't train so much this winter due to an nerve compression on my old broken disc. I had to rest 7 weeks. So right after the climbing break I started with rock climbing again. It was a big surprise. I definitely think it fits definitely my style."

Ten years ago, Barbara Zangerl was one of the very best female boulderers in the world. In 2009, she got an herniated vertebral disc which made her stop bouldering. Including one 9a and several 8c+' she is also nowadays among the best in sportclimbing and the same goes for trad, where she has done several 8b+' and 8c. Even so, big-walls and multi-pitches should be her best discipline with three FFA's in Yosemite up to 8c. So she is the best female multi-discipline rock climber out there, and in fact, a rather superior #1.

 
 
Led-spotlights part of the friction problem solution  Facebook
 

During Boulder World Cup finals, normally each boulder are lighten up by a spotlight just few minutes before the first person enters. Then the holds are in constant spotlight and get continuously warmed up for some 24 minutes. This means that the conditions deteriorate minute by minute which make the last climber, the winner of the semi, face the worst friction.

It should be noted that in the Olympic finals with eight climbers, the last climber face holds that have been in the spotlight for some 32 minutes. The simple solution to get more fair conditions during the finals is to use led-spotlights.

 
 
"Climbing For All"  (2) Facebook
 

Donate money to Climbing For All Sheffield.

 
 
Routsetting game to support CAC  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMarco Jubes: "I have developed a card game that in order to teach, learn and organize route setting for competitions and commercial gym. It is also possible to use the routesetting game to train with the team. Is a nice way to push your limits as a Routesetter and get very nice challenges.

My goal with this game is to share this idea with the setting community. I have already talked with a lot of expert Routesetters and they really love the game. Another thing important for me is with this game I will not get any benefit for the selling. I will give all the money to support CAC (Climbers Against Cancer). The price of the game for me cost around 5€ (design/ production and distribution) and I will sell it for 10€ which means around 5€ directly to CAC.

If you want to order in Europe you can write to info@punksetter.com, to order in the USA info@blocz.com. We are happy to have new distributors in all the countries, interested? just write us!"

 
 
Best Crash Pad 2019  Facebook
 


 
 
Ondra Road to Tokyo #10 - Moscow  Facebook
 

 
 
Heritage 8B+ by Alex Puccio  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio has done her fifth 8B+, Heritage in Valle Bavona. (c) Robin O'Leary

Including also 26 8B's, Alex has the most impressive female tick list and a wide pyramid foundation for going for 8C. In 2014, she got the silver in the world championship and she won her last and only World Cup she did in 2018.

"Wow.... psyched! 1st try on my 6th or 7th day. I fell off the last move 3rd day on it 2 times and then for the next days I was struggling to stay on the wall due to the warmth and high humidity! Finally got a windy, but warm day. Didn’t even warm up. Last day best day!!!! :)

This boulder is way harder being under a certain height! Have to hop out of the toe hook for the first crux move to the left hand gastone and then the last move to the right hand just under the lip is WAY harder since for my height you can’t use the good left lower foot others use. Have to ball up and punch to the last hold. Was a huge crux for me!!!"

 
 
Inferno 8B+ FA by Facundo Langbehn  Facebook
 

 
 
Two 8B FAs in Kochel by Toni Lamprecht (48)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureToni Lamprecht, legendary hard core FA-ionist in all disciplines; 9a routes, 8C boulders, 8c MPs and 8c DWS, has opened another two 8B's in Kochel, Jessica Jones and Tyler Durden.

"I worked the whole winter (2-3 sessions in the week, depends if I go skiing or not) on a really hard (8C?) roof project. So "Tyler Durden" is the exit of that project in combination with a 8a+-finish. I tried that 4 days, but I know the exit really well, because it is the finish of "Marla Singer" from 2004.

"Jessica Jones" I tried on and off for the last 2 years. It is a crazy short problem with 3 moves. Needed 20 sessions to figure out the right solution and another 3 days to combine it. There would be an 8B sit start to it. Next season? I guess, because the temperatures jumped over 20° now. I might go surfing or do some multipitch stuff near by."

 
 
Paint it Black 8C by Matt Fultz  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMatt Fultz has done his first 8C, Paint it Black in RMNP. The 27 year old has had almost ten years progress and is currently #7 in the 8a ranking.

Video on his Insta, where he comments. "I don’t think it’s the hardest climb I’ve done, and I’m encouraged to know that it is far from my potential. Psyched!"

 
 
Harakiri 8a+ by Cathy Wagner (53)  Facebook
 

Cathy Wagner has done her 8a+ # 153, Harakiri in Camp. "A fantastic route! The higher the harder ending with a nasty boulder."

With 47 8a's, 13 8a+' and two 8b's the last 12 months, the 53 year old continuous to perform at her best ever.

 
 
Shangrila 8c+ by Moritz Welt (17)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMoritz Welt has done Guido Köstermayer's, from 1995, Shangrila 8c+ in Frankenjura. In the 8a Combined ranking the 17 year old is #4. (c) Lars Decker

So happy to climb the ultraclassic "Shangri-La" 8c+ today! Tried this beauty once last summer and had no chance, but last week when I figured out the moves again, it felt completely different! Glad that everything worked out perfectly today!”

Next is trying to do Alex Megos' straight up version, Nice Freshly Baked 9a from 2014.

 
 
Best Climbing Shoes - La Sportiva  Facebook
 

Based on almost 3 000 unique votes, here are the result for - Best Climbing Shoes 2019? La Sportiva continues their domination and Scarpa gets another improved result. Five Ten drops some percentage again.

43 % La Sportiva (44 % last year)
28 % Scarpa (20)
10 % Five Ten (14)
07 % Others (7)
06 % Tenaya (6)
03 % Ocun (5)
03 % Boreal (5)

 
 
El Bon Combat 9b by Felipe Camargo  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureFelipe Camargo reports on Insta that he has done Chris Sharma's El Bon Combat 9b in Cova de l'ocell.

"I dreamed with @davidlama_official last night, woke up super sad...posted about him and was thinking of him all day...the pressure was just totally off, I put things in perspective and felt like it didn’t really matter if I sent anymore...at least not today! I gave a good first try but broke a foot hold and fell. On my second try the wind kinda of stopped, I made through the first crux, got to the kneebar rest and for the first time I didn’t feel any pressure...

All I could think while resting was how fucking good @davidlama_official climbed...I remembered some of the World cups that I watched him win, climbing so confident and so relaxed, the wind picked up again and i just went for it...didn’t hesitate, climbed fast and sent!! I clipped the anchors and just started crying immediately..."

 
 
Festival in Ikaria 15-17/6  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDon’t miss the chance to visit Greece’s new favorite climbing destination that combines extraordinary bouldering and amazing sport climbing. Ikaria, the island holding the secret of longevity, has incredible natural beauty, with extraordinary, gigantic granite formations for bouldering and breathtaking marble walls for sport climbing. Ikaria is called “the Mountain in the Aegean Sea” and is a most welcome climbing discovery of our time. Visit the site here, and register for the festival here.

 
 
Papichulo 9a+ by Seb Bouin and Kamil Ferenc  (8) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSeb Bouin and Kamil Ferenc have done Papichulo 9a+ in Oliana. Chris Sharma put up the stunning almost 50 meter line in 2008 and with 20 repeats it is the most repeated 9a+ in the world. Seb has previously done nine 9a+ and two 9b's and Kamil has previoulsy done eight 9a's. Next project for Seb is La Dura Dura 9b+. (c) William Barchelo - Seb Bouin

 
 
Moscow male analysis  Facebook
 

 
 
Intermezzo XY gelöst 9a by Nico Ferlitsch (17)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNico Ferlitsch, has done his second 9a in just 10 weeks, Intermezzo XY gelöst in Plombergstein. "I tried "Intermezzo XY gelöst" for only 4 days. This 9a (my third one) is pretty short and has a boulder problem at the beginning. I really like routes like this and I almost feel sad that it's already "over". But the crag Plombergstein near Salzburg has a lot more hard routes to offer. I'm not yet sure what exactly the next project will be but for sure it's going to be 9a or upwards."

 
 
Pedra, Paper, Tisora 8c+ by Angie Scarth-Johnson (14)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAngie Scarth-Johnson, who did her first 8c+ at age 12, has done her second, Pedra, Paper, Tisora in Margalef. The Australian is home-schooled and will spend six weeks in Spain this spring as she also has done before.

"It took me a couple of days but I was on it last year. I had an finger injury and was unable to send it due to that. So I’m super glad I could finish it off this year."

 
 
Competition and Friction  Facebook
 

Mic Rathke has published some concern in regards competition fairness in bouldering in Routesetter anonymous. 8a has talked about this issue for twelve years as it seems more favorable to be #6 in the semi, meaning that you start first with better friction in the final.

"Competitions should be fair, but we (the climbing community) face an issue with fairness. Our issue at hand mostly deals with slopers, they get full of chalk, bodily fluids, skin, and most of all the original friction wears away like sandpaper. The difficulty (grade or rating) of a climb gets harder in the matter of one session. This is an issue for the later people that climb on the same holds in the same competition.

Our current resolution is a brush and chalk, however this does not resolve the issue of replacing the original grip of a hold. With the Olympics coming up, how can we resolve this issue before 2020?"


It should be noted that in the Olympics, there will be eight to the final, meaning the friction problem will be a bigger issue in Tokyo.

 
 
The Kingdom 8C (B+) by Daniel Woods  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods reports on Insta that he has done Carlo Traversi’s The Kingdom 8C (B+) in Brione. Daniel has previously done 28 boulders 8C and harder which means he is #1 in that ranking. In the 8a ranking game, the 29 year old is #2 after Jimmy Webb. (c) Stefan Kuerzi

 
 
Battle Cat 8c (+) by Gabriela Vrablikova  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGabriela Vrablikova has done her first 8c (+), Battle Cat in Frankenjura in just six tries. Interesting the 28 year old Czech has only tried one 8c before so we are again talking about a late bloomer.

"I work as a physiotherapist so we had to plan it with my new coach, Petr Klofáč very carefully. We are working more complex in more areas - not just physical training, but mental training, regeneration and food. Training my mind helped a lot as well and of course Battle Cat is beautiful route so I really enjoyed climbing it! Now I am gonna enjoy some hot chocolate.

My next project is to find some sponsors for my dream project - one hard multipitch in Ratikon and I have never been to Spain so I want to go there this year and climb something harder."

 
 
Keen Roof 8B by Frances Bensley  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFrances Bensley has done her second 8B, Keen Roof in Peak District, in just three sessions. (c) Jonathan Bean

Interesting is that Frances did her first 8A only 18 months ago so wee are talking a late bloomer as she started climbing almost 20 years ago at age 7.

"I realized that all of the hardest things I had climbed had only taken a few sessions or a session to do. I had a goal of climbing 8b+ and 8A last year and managed that. At that point maybe I started to realize that in my own style I might be able to climb harder, but just need to find the right problems. Additionally I have made a lot more effort this year to try and identify and work on my climbing weaknesses. I am sure this has helped my climbing overall.

I have never had any structure to my training before January - I climbed a couple times a week and I tried hard, either climbing general blocs or a fun board session, but there was never a plan, very little finger boarding (I would occasionally pull onto a finger board maybe a few times a month but with no consistency) and I didn't matter if I only climbed once a week or three times a week.

I recently approached Dave Mason and I now have a weekly training plan to follow - its hard work for me because structure is something I struggle with, but it's also good and I'm feeling quite strong."

 
 
Black Mamba 8c trad roof by the Wide Boyz  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PicturePete Whittaker and Tom Randall, one of the best crack climbers out there, have made another hard first ascent in the Utah desert, Black Mamba 8c which may be their hardest roof crack yet. Whittaker describes the first ascents: (c) Talo Martin

"The route is like a mining tunnel, you walk to the back and start in a crouched position with a head torch on and can’t believe you now have to climb the same distance you just walked…but completely upside down.

Nevertheless, it’s as much about being tactical as it is about having the strength and endurance to be able to climb it. It required a head torch lit start, 3 hand jam glove changes, a rope tie mid pitch and toilet roll cushioning for tricep protection. It usually ends up that we use these bizarre tactics because we’re so focused on the climbing we forget to bring the more conventional tools to the crag, i.e. elbow pads or proper lanterns.

There are 4 distinct cruxes. 2 are finger jamming, 1 is thin hands and the final redpoint crux comes as a heart breaking last move; rounding the lip of the finishing off width. The key beta here was to make sure that the nose of the roof sat in the indentation below your sternum. Any lower with your torso and you’d unfortunately come up short every time.

The final off width in general is a little fighter. On its own it is a struggle, but with the continuous upside-down climbing beforehand, it’s a real world of dread when you finally get there on the big redpoint. If the route stopped before this, the whole thing would be like a beef sandwich - reasonably meaty. In totality, it’s that final 9 inch section that really makes it a full Sunday roast."

 
 
Mamichula 9b by Seb Bouin  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSeb Bouin has done his second 9b and the first repeat of Adam Ondra’s Mamichula in Oliana. Including also nine 9a+, the French is getting closer to the Top-5 best tick list. (c) Jan Novak

I had the best belayer possible for this route, my super Mami (mom). Last trip, on the last days, I felt on the last move before the rest. I am happy to finish the job! I have to say that I used kneepad for this route. It's my hardest route on the paper.
Yet maybe not in the reality . I am psyched to see some climbers in my latest mega lines in France (French Chilam Balam and "la côte d'usure").

 
 
El Dorado 9a by Jesús Muñoz Chuchi  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJesús Muñoz Chuchi has done his first 9a, El Dorado in La Pedriza after some 20 days of projecting. His previous best was an 8c FA in 2015 but when it comes to bouldering he did an 8B+ last year. (c) Talo Martin

"El Dorado is a route of few movements and although it can be categorized as a boulder, it also requires having a good rpower endurance to be able to send it.The first six movements, from my point of view, will go around 8B. The next section is very athletic, but somehow simpler, around 7c. Finally we reach the final step that is a long dyno. In isolation, only this final movement is like a 7C. Then there is a section of three meters on a much easier slab that does not add any difficulty.

I have had to adapt my training by increasing the days of resistance training and maximum strength since the route demands both qualities.
" More info on his Insta

 
 
IFSC/IOC Olympic movement meeting  (1) Facebook
 

Last week, IFSC had invited important stakeholders from the media, brands, gyms and experts to discuss the Olympic movement together with three representatives from IOC. You would think that this would mean three 60+ male but instead IOC did show up with three female 35-40 years old. Interesting is that in the end 8a was the only media present.

We did get explained how the bidding process for Tokyo and Paris have been taking place. In short, it seems IOC told IFSC that you can come with an application and you have best chances for being approved with one set of medal in Tokyo and possibly two sets in Paris.

From a general perspective, the indoor boom was discussed and the risk for getting climbing into the Olympics as well as if IFSC should take any stand in regards outdoor, ethics and the environment. The big change in competition format and IFSC competitions were also discussed and if it could be possible to qualify to the World Cups by getting points first in local and later regional competitions. There were not enough time to discuss how to make competition climbing more understandable and how to minimize the risk for strange thing to happen. However, 8a was asked to send in our thoughts.

 
 
Kruder wins great show for Slovenia again  (32) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJernej Kruder qualified last so he started first in the final where he executed them almost perfectly, doing them all in just eight attempts. He was third into the last boulder which he did first go saying, he thought it was too easy. Later nobody come even close. The big sensation was 15 year old Rei Kawamata who qualified to the final as #2. Last year he won the Youth WCh in Moscow and he also did his first 8B+.

1. Jernej Kruder 44* SLO (c) Eddie Fowke
2. Adam Ondra 34 CZE
3. Yushiyuki Ogata 33 JPN
4. Anze Peharc 23 SLO
5. Rei Kawamata 13 JPN
6. Vadim Timonov 13 RUS
Complete results
* 8a presents the results as points by just skipping the Z and t from the normal scoring.

 
 
Ondra Road to Tokyo #9 - Winning in Meiringen  Facebook
 

 
 
From too hard in the semi to too easy in the final  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIt seems the route setters, based on the few number of tops in the semi, made some late changes, resulting in too easy boulders in the final. All the podium topped all four boulders and Janja Garnbret won by doing them all first go. Noteworthy is that Slovenia, with just 2 million inhabitants, was superior by getting two golds and another two in the finals.

1. Janja Garnbret 44* SLO Eddie Fowke
2. Shauna Coxsey 44 GBR
3. Fanny Gibert 44 FRA
4. Lucka Rakovec 34 SLO
5. Jessica Pilz 34 AUT
6. Futaba Ito 33 JPN
Complete results
* In order to make it more understandable 8a has started to take out the T and z and just present the score with points.

 
 
Way too hard female semi setting  (2) Facebook
 

The commentators in Moscow said that they did not think the route setters over cocked the female boulders they in a good way challenged the very best. I totally disagree. The purpose of the qualification and the semi final is not to create a nice challenge for the best climber. It is about getting the Top-20 and the Top-6 in a nice show for the spectators. Further more, these rounds should be fair for the athletes.

Route setting is super hard and it is amazing how often they are spot on. However, there will always be situation when the boulders were too hard. The best way to make them fun to watch and fair for the athletes is to add one more zone.

 
 
Moscow finals 17.30 Euro time  (5) Facebook
 

 
 
Moscow semi 10.00 - Sunday  Facebook
 

 
 
Ondra superior and 3 zones made female final in Moscow  Facebook
 

In possibly, the hardest ever boulder semifinal, Futabo Ito qualified to the final by just getting three zones. Shauna Coxey and Janja Garnbret were the only ones topping out two boulders. Complete results

Among the male, Adam Ondra started first and topped out all four quite easily. In the end, Rei Kawamata was runner up with 2T4z as was the score for the Top-7 so the number of attempts made the cut. Interesting was that we saw possibly 30 attempts where the climbers touched the top but failed. All in all, 17 made four zones and all 20 made three zones.

 
 
 
Jacopo Larcher repeats Prinzip Hoffnug 8b/+ E9/10  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJacopo Larcher has made the third ascent of Beat Kammerlander's Prinzip Hoffnung 8b/+ E9/10 at Bürser Platte, Voralberg, in Austria. Beat put it up as a sport route in 1997 but later decided to chop the bolts and in 2009, beeing 50, he made the first trad ascent.

Jacopo, who previously has done two 9a's, worked the route some 15 times including some four lead attempts. So what can you say about the difficulty?

It's hard to relate it to a sport routes, it's something completely different, it's more mental. The climb is really technical and you can slip everywhere, which is not easy to assume as the protections are often not good and should not fall. Sure, I know grades are important for the media but I don't care about them anymore.

E-grades are mainly used in UK for trad climbing and it measures (speculates) the overall difficulty, including the danger, how hard it is to onsight it. There exist some E11 that also have gotten an 8c+ grade. In other words, for some reason, the trad routes have for some reason a harder, deflated, grading scale compared to bolted routes. So stay assure that Prinzip Hoffnug should not be compared in difficulty to a modern 8b/+ sport route.

 
 
The Story... 8C by Giuliano Cameroni (16)  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGiuliano Cameroni has done Dave Graham's The Story of 2 Worlds 8C in Cresciano from 2005 which might be the most known boulder in the world. The name was a statement to the previous grade inflation which actually made the it stop. It is a sit start to The Dagger 8B (+) making it to a great spectacular roof boulder.

"Yes! Unbelievable! This problem is one of the most complete I have ever seen. In the morning, the end was completely wet, but luckily in the afternoon it was almost dry. 3rd go today and falling down at the end on the first and the second try cause I slipped with the hand and the hook. but the battle against this boulder is not finish, on the other side there is Dreamtime!"

Giuliano, 16, is the youngest to have done an 8C. Previously Adam was the youngest beeing 17.

 
 
Lucid Dreaming 8C by Daniel Woods  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChuck Fryberger reports on instagram that Daniel Woods has made the first repeat of Paul Robinson's Lucid Dreaming 8C in Buttermilks - Bishop. Originally Paul gave it 8C+ but later he took out the +.

In total, Daniel has now done 20 8C's out of which six during the last five months and he is #1 in the 8a ranking which he has been for some years now. (c) © Thomas Caleyron

 
 
Two 8B flashes and a 8C FA by Daniel Woods  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods has had a great trip to Penoles where he flashed two 8B's, out of which El Infierno was a previous 8B+. He also did two 8B+ and made the FA of El Diablo 8C. Photo by Kyle Berkompas @Cff_climbing

"Psyched to have climbed this thing final day/final try of the trip. It sits in the sun all day and was just possible to session at night for me. The line is beautiful ascending a 25 foot 50 degree overhanging ships prow. The climbing starts out with a 7C+ crack straight into a sustained 8B+ with a scary topout. It is hard to rehearse the moves due to its height. I spent 5 days on this thing and somehow pulled it out of my ass.

 
 
8c+ by Stefano Carnati (15)  (1) Facebook
 

Stefano Carnati has done his first 8c+, deus irae(after break) in Claro. "wow!! Third ascent after the break. It took me a total of four days of work. It is a really short and bouldery route and above all painful, but it was worth it!!!!zaza!!!"The 15 year old has previously done six 8b+, the first one when he was 13.

 
 
9a by Fabrizio Peri (42)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFabrizio Peri has done Grandi Gesti 9a in Sperlonga. Planetmountain has the full story.

"I hope my achievement can act as a stimulus to those who, like me, 42-year-old with a beautiful family and job, still want to fuel their passions and strive to improve.

 
 
8A+ and 8B by Mirko Caballero (12)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMirko Caballero has got a great start in 2014 with one 8A+ and Meadowlark Lemon Stand 8B in Red Rocks. "Finally! Sent it on my last day in Red Rocks. So good! I'll try the sit on my next visit...", which is 8C.

Mirko turns into a teenager next week and is the youngest to have done 8B+, which was previously at 15 years by Adam Ondra, who also has the 8C record at 17. Photo by Three Peak Films

 
 
8C also by Chris Webb Parsons  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Webb Parsons has done Dai Koyamada's Insanity of Grandeur 8C in Chironico and reports on Instagram.

"YES!!! Just finished of Insanity Of Grandure 8C. After 6 days of work and falling on the slab top out twice (yes twice) today I topped it out with the rain and snow poring down and skin so torn up. Thanks to the amazing people I have met on this trip and a huge thanks goes to two incredible people @sashaturrentine and @alexjohnson89 for coming to spot me and support me on this journey. This journey has not just been about climbing, it's about new friendship, happiness and so much more.

 
 
8C again for Woods (FA) and Webb  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods have made the FA of The Nest 8C in Red Rocks. "This was a joint effort FA with my dawg @jwebxl. So cool to go to #war on this rig and share his motivation to get closer and closer! In the end we sent on our last tries and stood on top of one of the raddest boulders I have seen."

James Webb repeated shortly after and comments. "One of the most amazing lines you'll ever see. Huge thanks to Kenny barker and Andy raether for finding, cleaning, and sharing this gem with us. 5 days. (c) Bearcam

 
 
Romain Desgranges interview  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRestjug has made an interesting interview with Romain Desgranges who started climbing when he was 14 years old and won the Euro Champion in 2013, being 30 years old.

"I don’t think I am particularly gifted for climbing, I don’t have the super-powers that climbers such as Adam and Sean can have. I’ve got to work through things time and time again, learn, repeat, do it again and do it again to pull off things that might be innate for them. My talent might be that of being able to train really hard and systematically so that I can compensate for the lack of other qualities. Even technique improvement can become a matter of repetitions that you just need to go through. Because of this, I might end up working like a mechanical robot or analyse things like an engineer, so that I can hopefully look like I have a feline instinct for climbing : )"

"Momo" is also a world class boulderer and during four days he did nine boulders graded 8A to 8B. "In general the grades were homogeneous within the area and there is some type of national grading, they weren’t the hardest blocs of those grades that I happen to have tried : )

 
 
DPM Digital #26  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn the latest issue of DPM digital magazine #26 you will find many nice articles including interviews and videos of James Webb and Ashima Shiraishi.

 
 
Meadowlark Lemon 8B+ (C) also for James Webb  Facebook
 

James Webb has made quick work of Meadowlark Lemon in Red Rocks which he actually was close to flash. He also gives it a personal grade of 8B+ like Daniel Woods.

"1st go on the 2nd day. Such a beautiful line and huge props to Paul on the FA! Time for some searching and cleaning new projects.

 
 
Meadowlark 8B+ (C) for Daniel Woods  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods has done Paul Robinson's Meadowlark Lemon in Red Rocks for which he gives a personal grade of 8B+. (c) Bearcam

"Have dreamed about this line! One of the most aesthetic and fun to climb lines I have done. Jimmy and I warmed up in the sun, then made our way back into the "ice box," to meet up with Nalle and Bearcam at the lark. Jimmy was so close on the flash, falling at the top. We all were able to put the moves together very quickly. A half hour later, I was standing on top. It took me 3 tries from the start including some time to work out the moves. grade aside, congrats to Paul for opening such a beautiful line.

 
 
Third 9b+ FA by Adam Ondra  (23) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has established his third 9b+ FA, Vasil Vasil in Sloup. In total the 20 year old has done 86 routes 9a and harder out of which 21 are 9a+ or harder FA's.

"2 years and 20-25 days on this thing. It is definitely not mega line, it is painful, short and in dirty place. But it was there, I bolted it 5 years ago and I couldn't leave it unclimbed. It is basically one-mover. 7 meters of burly 8b route into hard boulder problem, which is 8B+ on itself for sure. One single move is at least 8B. Very frustrating process of making no progression for long days, but when it finally happened, on super cold sticky day, it felt like nothing. In a short moment it was all over. Short, but LONG awaited moment. I am so happy."

Next year, Adam has said he plans to do the Lead World Cup. In 2009, being 16 years old, he won and this year he was #1 and #2 in the two WC's he entered. National Geographic has appointed him as one of the adventurer of 2013. Click here and then below the picture to vote. (c) Petr Pavlicek

 
 
First 8C by Toshi Takeuchi  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureToshi Takeuchi has repeated Paul Robinson's Meadowlark Lemon in Red Rocks. "DONE!!!! YEEEEESSSS Best Boulder I've ever done. 3 days. 4th ascent? So much respect for Paul to find & FA this amazing bloc. HAPPY THANKS GIVING DAY!!!

 
 
PuntX 9a by Muriel Sarkany (39)  (12) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMuriel Sarkany, one of the best competition climbers in the history, has done PuntX 9a in Gorges du Loup. When Alex Chabot put it up in 2007 he did not give a grade but said, "the hardest route in Gorges du Loup", although three more 9a's already existed. Josune Bereziartu, Charlotte Durif, Sasha Digulian and Alizee Dufraisse have previously claimed the 9a grade.

Between 1997 and 2004, Muriel won the Overall WC 5 times and the remaining 3 years she was runner-up! The 153 cm tall stopped competing in 2010 and has since been doing some great progress peaking so far being 39 years old.

""It is a dream which becomes reality! To make one 9a, I dreamed about it and I did not think that it would become true one day. I looked a lot to find this route and as soon as I tried it, I felt that one day I could make it. I did not make all the moves and I couldn't do three sequences without stopping. The holds are small and the moves are bouldery but it wasn't morpho for me;-)

It was a big investment in time and in energy, but the result was really worth it! Ready for the next project ;-) but while waiting for to find it, I have only a desire: Try many new routes"

 
 
8C+ and 9A are needed to take us further  Facebook
 

Peter Baumgart has written an article with a clear message to the best boulderers in the world, 8C+ and 9A are needed to take us further.

" I sometimes get the impression that the top boulderers are locked in a game ‘I do not want to be the first to propose 9A and then being called off by the others to have over-rated it’. And this is a bit strange. What could happen?

Let’s say Daniel claims 9A. Big news. Sure the others will soon attempt to repeat it. Let’s assume the first repeater gives it 8C. So? Will the reputation of Daniel suffer? Most likely not.

Fred Nicole has never been called a weak jerk despite several of his problems have been downgraded. His name rightfully stands out as one of the top boulderers who actually took the sport further."

 
 
9th 8C FA by Daniel Woods  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods reports on instagram with a Bearcam picture that he has opend Defying Gravity 8C which is his 18th of that grade out of which nine FA's.

"This #beast is 25 feet tall, 58 degrees overhung, and #explosive. It is located at #thunder ridge in the #south platte of #coloradical. For sure in my top 3 list of best boulders that I have done.

 
 
8C by Iker Arroitajauregi  Facebook
 

Iker Arroitajauregi has made the FA of Txapela 8C at Albarracin. Here is a very nice Hoya Moros video made by him. The 36 year old is a late bloomer and three years ago his personal best was 8A+ and last winter he did four 8B+. Interview in Spanish together with nice pictures and videos.

 
 
The Bridge of Ashes 8B+ (C) by James Webb in 30 min  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Webb and has done Dave Graham's high class test piece in RMNP, The Bridge of Ashes, giving it a personal grade of 8B+ as he did it in just 30 minutes.

"3rd ascent. Such a dope problem! So cool that Dave found and created this guy. Not many people have that hard work ethic accompanied by the vision needed to see things like this. A true pioneer no doubt. Painful rock but amazing climbing on a stunning feature. Climbed it in 30 minutes so for me it feels a bit below 8C. Nonetheless i'm stoked to have climbed it! Rad!!"

James is #4 in the ranking but he would have been #2 without all his personal gradings. During the last two weeks, he has flashed ten boulders 8A to 8B. His trend diagram shows that he is about taking bouldering into the next level.

 
 
8C FA by Chris Webb Parsons  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Webb Parsons has after eight days done his fifth 8C, Belly Of The Beast in Peak District which is a six move sit start extension to Ken Roof Low 8B+ (old video). In the 8a ranking game he is #7."I'm in the best shape of my life right now."

What is up next and what about the WC next year?
"I'm in UK for another week then I'm off to Font, Swiss for a month or two then I'll be living in Austria for the foreseeable future. Yes, I'll be doing all the WC in 2014." This year he was #12 in the last WC. (c) Jose Luis Olivares Ferrandiz

 
 
8b by Angie Scarth-Johnson (9)  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAngelina Scarth-Johnson becomes the youngest ever to have done an 8b by Swingline in Red River Gorge. The amazing story is that the Australian started to climb only two years ago and that two weeks ago she did her first 7c+. She is 125 cm tall and last year her personal best was 6c+. More info to come.

 
 
Alizée Dufraisse'den 8c+ zorluğunda tırmanış  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlizée Dufraisse in Margalef'te 8c+ zorluğundaki Coma Sant Pere rotasını tırmandı. "toplam 8 tırmanış günü sürdü.Sonra Siurana da kolay tırmanışlar yapacağım ve daha zorları deneyeceğim. "Felix the cat" emniyetimi aldı (Neumärker)" 8c+ zorluğundaki Politicamente Corruptos rotasınıda tırmanmıştı.

 
 
8C and 8B+ by Jan Hojer in Font  (12) Facebook
 

Jan Hojer has probably set some kind of record in Fontainebleau, having done one 8C (TripHop) and one 8B+(L'Apparemment assis) during the same day. The German Boulder giant (187 cm and 81 kilos) moves to #2 in the ranking game.

What have you done to be in the best shape ever in your life?
I don't know.. I took many weeks off after vail because of a foot injury that spoiled all summer plans and let my motivation drop... But since this break I am more motivated than ever, train more efficiently and purposely and I'm surprised to see how fast it pays off!!

 
 
Jaws II 9a+ by Paul Robinson  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePaul Robinson, one of the world's best boulderers, has made an interesting comeback with his harness, having done Jaws II 9a+ in Rumney. The last time he did some serious bolt-clipping was in 2009 when he did Psychedelic 9a.

Well this one sure was a process for me!!! The first boulder was my true epic and it took a while to get it sorted and then the top dead point got epic and I fell there 6 TIMES!!!! Today it clicked and it all came together... just in time too! Leaving tomorrow!

I had always been amazed by Jaws and had always had the dream of climbing 9a+! I first tried this line in 2011 and I could not get the line out of my head. I knew I had to come back. Fortunately this fall was the perfect time. I trained a bit of endurance before coming and set to work on the line!

I am not sure how many days I tried it... probably around 8 or 9! The crux was really hard for me because I could not decide which beta to use so I spent multiple days trying each beta until I found the one that worked for me!
© Alex Kahn

 
 
8B+ (C) by Jan Hojer in Font  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJan Hojer has done the first repeat of Seastian Frigault's Mecanique Elementaire in Fontainebleau from 2006, giving it a personal grade of 8B+. "Yesterday I wanted to check out the moves of ME and somehow ended up on top of the boulder. So basically my second session on it because I did Opium (the top part of ME) two years ago. Amazing athletic test piece! I don't know why nobody's trying it?!

My primary goal for this trip is Trip Hop where I fell pretty close to the top, two days ago.. Hopefully it doesn't rain all week!


Two weeks ago, the 187 cm powerhouse, did three 8B's also in Font and he is #4 in the ranking game. In the Boulder WC, he was #8 this year after having won one event and been runner-up in another.

 
 
Three 9a's by Adam Ondra in a day in Frankenjura  (27) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra had an amazing day yesterday in Frankenjura where he quickly did three 9a's;
The Elder Statesman, "Close to flashing, fired it off 20mins later. Thanks for beta Alex! 1st 9a of the day."
The House of Shock, "Tough bouldering on tiny holds... 2nd 9a of the day, the hardest of the three.
Sever the Wicked Hand, "Tried two days before in severe humidity, now did it 1st go while clipping the draws in. 3rd 9a of the day, even though this one must be pretty soft."

In total, Adam has done 85 routes 9a and harder which is 3 times as many as the runner up on this list, Chris Sharma. On Friday, Adam will make a very interesting start at the Valence World Cup, the first WC for him for over two years. The next year, he plans to do the whole circuit. (c) Pete O'Donovan

 
 
8c slab by Paige Claasen  (10) Facebook
 

Jon Glassberg who has been around making films with many of the top guys during the many years reports on Facebook,

"Paige Claassen just sent one of the worlds hardest slabs! "Art Attack (8c) at Sasso Remeno, Italy! 2nd ascent since the FA in 2004! I could not even believe my eyes. Nearly the last day of the trip, in epic humidity and even some rain, she pulled it off. Possibly the single most impressive ascent I have ever witnessed!

 
 
Third 9a in five days by Gabri Moroni  (91) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGabri Moroni is setting some kind of record having done three 9a's in five days including The Elder Statesman today. According to Markus Bock's Frankenjura list including 15 routes 9a and harder, Gabri's three are ranked #2, #4 and #13. He has previously done Action Directe #5 in the list.

What have you done to be in the best shape of your life?
When I came back from Brazil in July I felt in my worst shape ever and over weight, so I trained hard for a couple of months. Mainly campus board and outdoor climbing for sure. Nothing extreme but four times a week and sometimes double sessions. During this time I also stay healthy, I mean eating well and not to much.

 
 
2nd 8A by Giorgia Tesio (12)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGiorgia Tesio has done Christian Core's superline Rampage 8A in Varazze which was her second 8A boulder. In the Arco Rock Junior 2013, she won the boulder event and was tied winner in Lead.

Michele Caminati comments, "Rampage is a really nice endurance style 8A problem, but it is quite powerful as well, so definitely a good job for a little girl!(c) Michele Francia

 
 
The Riverbed 8B and two 8A+' by Giuliano Cameroni (16)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGiuliano Cameroni has had a good weekend where he first did The Riverbed 8B and Massive Attack 8A+ in Magic Wood. On Sunday he did the FA of The Mentalist 8A+ in Switz.

 
 
Memento 8B+ by Martin Stráník  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMartin Stráník has had a very productive trip to Silvretta where he did Memento 8B+. "My childhood dream, fit my style perfectly! 4th go from start!" Memento video.

Many nice pictures at his blog from another eight boulder 8A to 8B/+ that he did. In 2007, Martin was #2 in the Bouldering World Championship being only 17 years old.

 
 
8C FA by James Webb in Mt Evans  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Webb has completed what he believes to be his first 8C, The Wheel of Wolvo in Mt Evans after putting in three days of work alongside Dave Graham and Daniel Woods.

"Yet another wheel of colorado! Amazing boulder problem we've always looked at but just thought it to be too hard. The break down is sick. A 10 move 8B+ into a 15 move 8A/+. A pumpy one for sure and suited my style/height so perfectly. Dave and Dan are close behind and will send next time for sure. Psyched to go back and try one of the harder exits!?"

Jimmy has previously done three 8Cs but has given a lower personal grade to each. In total Webb has recorded 18 boulders graded 8B+. This summer, he flashed three 8B's in Rocklands and has made a continuous progression in difficulty for eight straight years. He is now #3 in the ranking game.

 
 
The Meignan sibblings set a new family standard  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHugo Meignan has done Cosi fan tutti, 8c+ in Rodellar and he says it can even be 9a. "A tuffa broke about a month ago, adding a crux 3 fourth of the way up, instead of a rest. I think I must be the first to complete the route as it is now. The route is much harder than anything I've climbed before. It is a splendid 55 metre line with 2 cruxes. It took me 15 attempts."

Thoma (16) has onsighted two 8a+, Las dos golondrinas de la piscineta and Paideia.

Naïlé (9) has after having done three 8a's the last ten days, done her first 8b, Espirit Rebeld and she did it in only five tries.

Their father Lucas: "Since they were small, we initiated our five children to mountain sports. Their inspiration and that climbing can be practiced intensively and safely at an early age, led us to focus on this sport while continuing occasionally with other mountain sports."

 
 
8c by Mirko Caballero (12)  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMirko Caballero finishes of his long Euro trip by doing his first 8c, Stop Sika in Rawyl. "Decided to check out Rawyl for my last 4 days in Europe, and I get to send my first 8c!!! Took me 4 tries... Sick route and amazing scenery. PSYCHED! I felt really strong after 2 weeks bouldering in Magic Wood."

Mirko has grown a lot lately and is 165 cm tall. He needed only four tries over two days for the send. The only twelve year olds in the history of climbing that have a better tick list are Ashima Shiraishi and Adam Ondra.

 
 
8B again by Ashima Shiraishi (12)  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAshima Shiraishi has once again done an 8B, The Automator in RMNP. The twelve year old is actually the best female rock climber in the world and, in fact, she has been the #1 for more than a year now. No other woman has a more impressive tick list including several 8B's, an 8A flash and 8c+ routes.

Ashima has previously said that she wants to try Jade 8B+ in RMNP. (c) Alexandra Kahn

 
 
8B by Mirko Caballero (12) & Ashima Shiraishi (12)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMirko Caballero and Ashima Shiraishi have done One Summer in Paradise 8B in Magic Wood. They also both did 8A+ and 8A and Mirko plans to climb at least four times as many 7's as 8's. In the great picture by Rainer Eder, Mirko is climbing Unendliche Geschichte II 8A.

Mirko is on a 10 weeks summertrip in Europe. "We had a lot of fun climbing with the Raboutou and Ruana's. Brooke also sent Pura Vida, and Shawn also did Never Ending Story 1 & 2. They were really fun to climb with and there were a bunch of young guys from Switzerland, including Sam Ometz and Guiliano Camaroni. Sam and Guiliano are really strong!"

Ashima, 12 years old, is the only female who has done both 8B (boulder) and 8c+ (route); She's climbed both grades twice.

 
 
8a+ OS and bigwall by Sasha Digiulian  (8) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLast week, Sasha Digiulian won the celebrity DWS in USA and now she is the Dolomites doing some bigwalls. During a rest day, from big wall climbing, she onsighted Pole position 8a+ in Erto. During the summer vacation from the university studies she has also opened two 8b+ routes in South Africa.

During 2011 and 2012, she did six Lead World Cups including the World Champion, and she made it to the finals in all. In the 2011 World Champion she won the Combined title after being #2 in Bouldering. The 20 year old has been the 8a ranking game leader for the last four years!

 
 
9b by Adam Ondra in Flatanger and a 9a in Hell  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureYesterday, Adam Ondra made the FA of Iron Curtain 9b in Flatanger which was bolted by Lars Audun Nornes. "One project less, onto the next one! This one took me 6 days this trip plus quite many days of waiting for acceptable conditions. The sending was true heartbreaker, fell off one metre below the anchor because of wet hold in the morning, wanted to rest for the next day, but strong wind breaking the pole of the tents made me go out and send in a beutiful evening, together with Seb and Dharma."

Two weeks ago Adam also put up Purgatory 9a FA in Hell, see the picture by Petr Pavlicek. During Ondra's first two weeks in Flatanger, the conditions were poor because of heavy rain prior to his arrival, and later due to temperatures of up to 29 degrees. However, now conditions are better, and Adam will start to project the routes he bolted in May.

 
 
Third 8b+ in a month by Cameron Hörst (12)  (24) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCameron Hörst has done Dead Souls in American Fork which was his sixth 8b+ out of which three just the last month. "Fun route, but super mentally exhausting--skipping the 4th clip is scary...and I took a few bad, near-ground falls. ouch!"

His father Eric, a well known coach and auther of several climbing training books, comments the fall potential from eight metres.

"Cam sent the route on his 3rd day of work--local climbers brought crash pads to the cliff base so I could let a with a little more rope out and soften the fall a bit. Still, after belaying Cam on two especially bad falls from crux--I, as Dad and responsible adult, considered stopping him from attempting the climb further. The risk calculus was difficult, but given the crash pads in place I gave in to Cam's wish to try the route again, sine he fell twice from the last hard move.

 
 
Silbergeier 8b/+ MP by Barbara Zangerl  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePlanetmountain reports that Barbara Zangerl has repeated Silbergeier in Rätikon with six pitches up to 8b/+. Babsi was some years ago, one of the best boulderers with several 8A-8B's before an injury. Esteban Diez has made a short interview. © Sabine Knabl

Is this one your hardest multi-pitch route ever?
For sure, together with ‘End of Silence’ this is the hardest.

Can you tell us something about how the route is?
The route is very technical. Really small scarp holds. And nearly nothing for your feet somethimes. And I felt sometimes scared because of the big runouts...

Which part of the route was the hardest for you? Was it more like a mental problem?
The hardest pitch for me was the 5th. The 8b+. Two years ago I had to stop trying it because of an injury. Very special undercling moves. And you have to climb 3 hard pitches before. I was very lucky I had no falls yesterday. It was a fight for my head for sure :)

Are you going to try ‘Des Kaisers Neue Kleider’ this year and therefore close the famous trilogy?
I am not sure if I’ll try Kaisers Neue Kleider this year but I am very motivated to try it in general.

 
 
Another 9a (8c+) OS for Adam Ondra or?  (11) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra has onsigthed Torture physique in Gastlosen but he is unsure whether he just did the first 8c pitch or the 9a extension. If he has done the latter, he would give it a personal grad of 8c+.

"What a nice feeling of feeling strong! I kept climbing, clipped the first anchor of 8c (and didn't know about it, as there is only one bolt with lock-carabiner), continued, clipped the anchor of second pitch from the reinforced side-pull, unable to continue nor clip the second bolt of the anchor. While falling off, I thought that I had not sent even the first 8c. What a nice suprise was to find out that I might have just onsighted Torture Physique 2.0, which was graded 9a at first, that ends up in that anchor, even though I don't know if you are allowed to clip the anchor from underneath (reinforced hold) or you have to do this two more moves. Nevertheless, I did at least the first pitch and maybe the second one as well. Nevertheless, the second pitch seemed to me like easy or hard 8c+, depending on where it ends."

Adam has previously done two 9a's for which he has given a personal grade of 8c+. Later he did the FA of the second extension giving it 9a+ but says it might be 9b for shorter guys.
"This place is crazy!!! I love it here."

 
 
9a onsight by Adam Ondra - Interview update  (21) Facebook
 

Kairn reports that Adam Ondra has onsighted La Cabane au Canada 9a in Rawyl which Lionel Clerc made the FA of in 2006. The first 9a OS was made by Alex Megos this spring by Estado Critico in Siurana. It should also be mentioned that Adam Ondra last year onsighted two confirmed 9a in Red River Gorge, Pure Imagination and Golden Ticket, for which he choses to give a personal grade of 8c+. Previously, Adam has onsighted 15 8c+' and the runner up in this Contest has onsighted one.

Planet Mountain has the 9a interview where he confirms the grade and says he did not have time to warm up properly, just half a route and than"“ran around and flapped my arms as best I could and then set off.”

 
 
8c/+ FA by Sasha Digiulian  (18) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSasha Digulian has opened Rolihlahla 8c+ in Waterfall Boven which is the hardest sport climbing route ever put up by a female. The 20 year old increases the lead in the ranking game, as she has been holding for some years now. (c) Keith Ladzinski, who also together with Andy Mann have full film footage and amazing photos from the whole process!


"I am incredibly excited with this new accomplishment. The route is one of the most spectacular lines I have ever climbed. It is also my first time doing a first ascent of a route and it was a fun experience to realize that something was possible. The climb also includes crack climbing, big falls, and some very technical portions that required my full commitment. In comparison to other routes that I have done I am comfortable with considering the route 8c+.

 
 
James Webb is taking it to new grade levels  (4) Facebook
 

James Webb continues his rampage in the Rocklands. In two weeks he managed to do 25 8A's and harder, using his personal grades. 10 of those 25 ascents were flashes!

Most of them were originally graded one or two grades harder by the FA. Yesterday he flashed Green Mamba and Shosholoza giving them a personal grade of 8A although they were both set up as hard 8B's.

 
 
8B (+) flash by James Webb  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Webb has flashed Daniel Woods' Sky in the Rocklands giving it a personal grade of 8B. Based on the comments made by others who have climbed it, Sky should be considered one of the best hard boulders in the world.

"One of the best feelings I've had in climbing. Such a rad bloc. Props to Daniel for establishing this incredible line. Fit me perfectly. 8B+ flash sounds nice but this is just not the case. At least for my height."

James is #4 in the ranking game, but when it comes to flashes in the past year he has the most impressive list.

 
 
8c by Mikel Linacisoro (12)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMikel Linacisoro has done his first 8c, White Zoombie in Baltzola (video). One year ago, his PB was 8a+ and two years ago, 7b+. In the ranking game, the 12 year old is #1 among all guys up to 16 years old.

Noteworthy is that during the last ski season, competing against one year older kids, he was in the podium in every discipline he tried, i.e., champion in the Spanish Cup, Spanish champion in Slalom, Spanish champion in Super Combined, runner-up in the Spanish Giant and third in the Super Giant Spanish Championships... He's also good at climbing competitions since he ended second in the Spanish Cup after being 2nd, 1st and 2nd. Maybe you want to have a look to an interview we recently had with him in Spanish. Pic: Bebeblok.

 
 
Mind Control 8c (+) by Barbara Raudner (40)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBarbara Raudner has done Mind Control 8c (+) in Oliana which was put up by Chris Sharma. "For me Mind Control is the most beautiful route I have ever tried. I am very grateful to have had the opportunity to climb such a fantastic line in that international spot in Oliana.

Thanks to all the nice people with who we spend a really great time there. Thanks for all the „venga, venga“!! Hope to see you all again!! Vamos!!"
full story at her website (c) Claudiaziegler

 
 
8b again by the Hörst brothers 10 & 12  (11) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCameron Hörst (12) has done True Love in Red River Gorge which was his seventh 8b and harder send. "Really small holds and way reachy for my size. I agree with Mike Doyle, this is harder than God's Own Stone!"

The day after, little brother Jonathan (10) did Swingline 8b. "Great route; very complex-- it took me seven tries." Last month, the little brother did God's Own Stone which goes at 8b+ in the latest topo.

Here is a recent training article focusing on kids progress, made by their father Eric. Eric has sold more than 300 000 climbing training books and has been climbing for more than 35 yeras but when it comes to climbing hard, his sons are now 2-3 grades ahead.

 
 
8b+ (c) onsight by Evgeniya Malamid  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEvgeniya Malamid has onsighted Los Humildes pa Casa 8b+ in Oliana. "It was just the last route of the day and I wasn't going to onsight it."

It was set up as an 8c which some still think it is although the start is changed. The are less than a handful female that have onsighted 8b+ before including an 8c by Charlotte Durif.

The last year Evgeniya was #9 in the Lead World Cup. "This year I'm going to compete in the World Cup and the European Championship, now climbing on rocks is for pleasure and for training before the season!" (c) Heiko Wilhelm

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