GO TO GLOBAL SITE   se es us fr za it
de ca au no
at br ru ch
gb pl nl sk
Accueil | News | Videos | Articles | Galerie photo | Sites | Salles | Recherche - Tick List | Forum | Classement | Blogs | Contact | S'inscrire !
News   Numbers   Year
 
 
Corrida 8c by Jessica Pilz  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJessica Pilz, the world Lead Champion, has had some nice days in Osp/Misja Pec where she has onsighted Ptičja perspektiva 8a+ and on her second go she did Corrida 8c. In the 8a ranking game, the 21 year old is #3.

Three years ago she did her first 8c+ and based on her great progress the last year, it will be interesting to see how far she can push it this winter before going full into the Olympic mode in 2019. More info to come.

 
 
Sharma Mont-Rebei Summer 2018  Facebook
 

 
 
Meltdown 8c+ trad by Carlo Traversi  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCarlo Traversi has done the second ascent of Beth Rodden's Meltdown 8c+ in Yosemite which since 2008 have been seen as possibly the hardest trad route in the world.

"This season it all came together. A dry Fall and this week the colder temps are just sweeping into the Valley. Yesterday I was able to climb it on my 3rd try of the day after a couple weird slips after the crux on the first two tries. All gear was placed on lead, after the first piece was placed I climbed back down to the ground to re-chalk and re-compose."

Carlo's background is bouldering where he during two years until 2013 did five 8C's. Then in 2015 he did two 9a's and on his Insta he then reported he was close doing Meltdown after three years of sporadic effort.

 
 
Top-32 in Combined 2019 might have chances for the Olympics  Facebook
 

The 2019 competition season will finish with the Olympic Qualifying event in Toulouse 28/11 to 1/11 where the Top-20 in the Combined ranking will participate for six spots, excluding the seven that qualified during the World Championship in August in Japan. In practice this could mean that among the male, that even being ranked #32 you might be selected for the qualifying event as Japan could have eight in Top-32. In theory, if countries like Italy and Germany will fill their country quota in the World Championship, it might be good enough to be Top-35.

This means that the chances for the Speed specialists to compete in Toulouse is quite high. As their maximum score in the qualifying event is 1 * 20 * 20 = 400, this might be good enough for being Top-6 and to get a ticket for Tokyo.

It should be mentioned that excluding the Top-7 in the World Championship from participating in Toulouse could be consider not fair. In fact, Toulouse is the only event where you can "train" and prepare on the identical format as in Tokyo 2020. Detailed info how to qualify.

 
 
Viaje astral 9a FA by Jonathan Guadalcázar  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJonathan Guadalcázar has done his third 9a during the last 12 months, Viaje astral in Tarbena. Until 2016, the 25 year old had done just one 8c+ but during the last two years he has done five.

"40m route very intense. First 20m 8c+ on small crimps without rests and after a water-polished laybacking crack ending on very small crimps."

 
 
Supernormal 8B+ by Paul Robinson  Facebook
 

 
 
Sharma competes at La Sportiva Legends in Stockholm  Facebook
 

In 1996, being 15 years old, Chris Sharma was #2 in the World Lead Championship and the next year he won his first World Cup he entered. In 2001, he won the Bouldering WC in Munich.

During the La Sportiva Legends in Stockholm 24/11, Sharma will compete against some of the very boulderers in the world; Jernej Kruder, Jongwon Chon, Alex Megos, Rei Sugimoto and Alexey Rubtsov. If he not ends last, it must be considered sensational. What if this is a test for going for the Olympics 2020? IFSC will through a Tripartite Commission invite one male and female that have not made it through the qualification competitions.

 
 
Netsuke 8B+ by Erik Bäcklin  Facebook
 

 
 
Working Class 9a by Moritz Perwitzschky (19)  Facebook
 

Moritz Perwitzschky has done his first 9a, Working class in Frankenjura, which he marked as chipped. "Lot of fixed holds, went down quick, M. Bock suggested 9a, I can't really tell, haven't tried much in that grade."

During the last month, the 19 year old has done six routes 8C and harder and he is #4 in the Combined ranking game.

 
 
Free Personalized Gym Workouts from Vertical-Life  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureWorkouts are now live in the Vertical-Life Climbing App! Spice up your gym sessions with free, customized, workouts. Lead and bouldering workouts are single-day training plans, designed by pro climbing coach Ingo Filzwieser.

Get started with 3 easy steps:
1. Choose your gym
2. Set a goal
3. Start Training

Download the App and start your free workout

 
 
El Dorado 9a FA by Carlos Ruano (38)  (13) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCarlos Ruano has made the FA of El Dorado 9a in La Pedriza, Spain. The 38 years old has previously done one 9a and several boulders up to 8B+. ©Talo Martin

"The start of the route is a 8A+/B boulder, then follows a 7C+ and huge 7C dyno to catch the lip and there's no rest in its 12 meters. Despite the crux is in the bottom part I fell 5 times in the last hard move. "

 
 
Provisional WC Calendar 2019  Facebook
 

IFSC has published the provisional Calendar for 2019 including 6 events in all three disciplines.

05/04 Meiringen SUI Boulder
13/04 Moscow RUS Boulder/Speed
27/04 Chonqing CHN Boulder/Speed
04/05 Wujinang CHN Boulder/Speed
18/05 Munich GER Boulder
07/06 Vail USA Boulder

05/07 Villars FRA Lead/Speed
11/07 Chamonix FRA Lead/Speed
19/07 Briancon FRA Lead
20/08 Tokyo JPN Combined World Championship
28/09 Kranj SLO Lead
19/10 Xiamen CHN Lead/Speed
26/10 Inzai JPN Lead
28/11 Toulouse FRA Olympic Qualification


As the most important event for the ones going for Tokyo 2020 are the world Championship and the Olympic qualification event, most probably, most will cherry pick which comps to focus at. It is not wise to travel around the globe almost non-stop for seven months without resting prior to the qualification in Toulouse.

From a logistic and cost point of view; skipping Vail, Xiamen and Inzai will make everything much easier at least for the Europeans. For the non-Europeans avoiding Kranj and Munich will make life easier.

On the other hand, as many of the best probably will not do all WCs, it is a golden opportunity to focus on the World Cup in one discipline giving low priority for the Olympics.

The twist is also that the Top-7 in the World Championship in Tokyo in August will qualify for the 2020. Most probably, these qualifiers will limit their competing during the autumn opening up for better results for the lower ranked.

 
 
Brad Gobright hard trad in Indian Creek  Facebook
 

 
 
Schweinebaumeln 9a by Thomas O'Halloran  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThomas O'Halloran has done the first repeat of Alex Megos Schweinebaumeln 9a in Blue Mountains. The picture is from this summer walking up to Céüse and here is a nice video of him doing Mister Hyde 8c+ up there.

"Over the past few years I have spent a lot of days on it, but always in the middle of summer in bad conditions. I’d just use it as a training route while everything else was out of season. It was a good training route to keep fit. I did it on the 4th day of attempts this season. It’s very satisfying to do. I’m not feeling especially fit or strong at the moment and it didn’t feel like it took a lot out of me. So it’s great to know I have quite a bit more room to improve!"

 
 
Circo Ibérico 9a+ FA by Jorge Diaz-Rullo (19)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJorge Diaz-Rullo has done his third 9a+ through the FA of Circo Ibérico in Cuenca. "Route on the lower range of 9a+, harder than the others 9a's in Cuenca anyway. Few climbers like Pablo Barbero tried it before and once I tried it I was super psyched to keep trying it". In the ranking game, the 19 year old spanish is #5. ©Javipec

 
 
Check Speed potential through standing longjump  Facebook
 

Three years ago we asked some speed experts how fast they thought the non-speed specialist could do it. As they thought it would take a year of physical training and getting the sequence optimized to go below eight seconds, we now know they were wrong. One reason for them getting dead wrong might be that Sean McColl had been struggling for years without doing any sub eight seconds run.

With Yushiyuki Ogata doing 6.71 and also Tomoa Narasaki getting sub seconds without any proper physical training at the same time many struggle getting below ten seconds, it is clear that climbers have different talent. Talking to some coaches and athletes this has also been confirmed.

The Norwegian coach Reino Horak says that he thinks standing long jump and sprinting 20 meters are good indications of who can be the fastest. Possibly this means that if you can jump 2.80 cm, without any training, you can go below seven seconds?

 
 
Action Directe 9a by Stefan Scarperi  Facebook
 

 
 
Atomic Playboy 8A+ trav (8A) By Oriane Bertone (13)  (2) Facebook
 

Oriane Bertone has done the Fontainebleau traverse Atomic Playboy 8A+. "Fantastic trav with a boulder grade in the 7C+ section." The 13 year old has done more than 20 Boulders 8A and harder including Golden Shadow 8B (+) when she was 12 years old.

 
 
Nicolas Collin is the new Combined star  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNicolas Collin was #10 and #12 in the last two Lead events in China. Including also relatively good results in Speed at the same time as only a dozen Combined athletes competed in China, the Belgian was #6 overall. Most probably this will mean a new life for the 20-year-old and full nurse student as he will get an Olympic candidate salary from the state.

How can you explain your very good results in China?
It was easier to go to the semi because the low number of participants. I am better in onsight compared to flash. I was also well prepared.

What is your goal now for 2019?
it is special, haha. I still do not know what to think about that? I am super happy of this #6 place because the season was really long for me. It was also my first year in the university so it was hard to manage both competition and study. My shape varied a lot so the system of calculation just the two bet results was good for me.

My goals for next year is to reach a final in Boulder and Lead and also to go under 7 seconds in Speed. I will finish my exam in May so I will go to Innsbruck for training in June.

 
 
Action Directe 9a by Stefan Scarperi  (12) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefan Scarperi has done the 25th ascent of Wolfgang Gullich’s classic from 1991, Action Directe in Frankenjura after six days of working it during the last two years. In total the Italian has done four 9a’s out of which two the last two weeks. In 2015 he was #3 in the Euro Championship.

It is just amazing and Wolfgang did it the same year when I was born. I think this is my hardest although Biologico took me a lot of effort.”

 
 
Ethics on stick trad placement?  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePlacing gear on lead is what counts in trad climbing in order to make a valid ascent even on redpoint. This means sometimes a route is much harder and dangerous as you do not reach a placement from a good position. If you had reached just 10 cm further possibly you could have gotten a bomber solid nut placement but instead the only solution might be to either do a dead serious run-out or place the nut from bad holds, creating another crux.

In sport climbing, such situations are rare but you might end up in the same out of reach to place the quick draw on an onsight. The solution is then to carry a stiff quick draw with open gate and voila, problem fixed.

As trad ethics is pretty conservative, most probably the trad community would not give credit placing gear with a stick-clip or even using one of these 45 cm stiff dog bones quickdraws etc. But what if you just squeeze in the cables in the rubber normally stabilizing the lower carabiner. By doing so you could gain some 10- 20 cm, resulting in a safer and easier trad experience even if the objective difficulty remains the same.

Safety: Please not that once the nut has been placed pull the quickdraw and clip it into the wire.

 
 
Midas 8c+ FA by Moritz Welt (17)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMoritz Welt, who the last two months have done two 9a's, have done the FA of Midas 8c+ in Frankenjura. The 17-year-old is #2 in the Combined ranking game after Daniel Woods.

"New line starting with the first two bolts of Triebwerke and ending in the upper part of Fürther Freiheit. Pretty much my style with technical moves on tiny holds, hard to grade though... pumpy 8a into 8A+ boulder into another pumpy 7c/+ with a few medium rests in between. Loved to try it!"

 
 
Winning and loosing an Olympic salary in China  Facebook
 

Nicolas Collins from Belgium traveled to China totally under the radar and did come back as #6 in the Combined overall. Most probably this means that he now will get a salary from the state being an Olympic athlete. Interview is coming up.

Another example of an athlete suddenly becoming an Olympic prospect, due to only a dozen Combined climbers participated in China, is Speed specialist John Brosler. His best Speed result over the season is, including the last two in China, #13. In Lead and Boulder he is normally among the very last but anyhow he was #13 overall.

Another way of showing the impact of the few Combined athletes competing in China is Gregor Vezonik. If he had traveled to China and ended dead last in all events he would have been #9 overall. As a matter of a fact, if I myself had done two Boulder WCs and also traveled to China I could have put #35 in the Combined World Cup. Not bad for a 53 year old that currently struggles topping out the Speed in a sport that is Olympic. I am sure many similar stories can be found among the female.

The 2019 season will be long and a good portion of strategy for which comps to do will be as important as how well you climb. Saving energy for the end of the season when the selection will be done in the qualifying Olympic event will be crucial.

 
 
Joe Rogan 100 min interview with Alex Honnold  Facebook
 

 
 
Box Therapy 4th 8C+ FA by Daniel Woods  (12) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods reports on Insta, with many great pics by James Lucas, that he has done the FA of his 4th 8C+, Box Therapy in RMNP up at 3 169 m elevation. The 10.5 km hike took 2 - 3 hours depending how much snow it was and he did it seven days.

As can be seen on the picture, there were plenty of snow and projecting also involved rapping in and shoveling away snow and ice on the top out. Some of the days he worked it it was 1 degree and windy conditions. "18 moves out a 50 degree roof, micro holds that make your pulleys feel like they are gonna pop after every attempt." More on Climbing.

The 29 year old has been one of the leading boulderers since he was 16 years old and in practice, he has the most impressive bouldering tick list out there. In 2010, he won the Bouldering WC in Vail and this year he did his first 9b.

 
 
15 FAs in Boka Waterfalls in Slovenia  Facebook
 

 
 
Exit 8b+ by Andrea Chelleris (9)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureAndrea Chelleris started climbing when he was 5 years old and one year later he did his first 7b. Last year he did his first 8a and this weekend he did Exit 8b+ in Cavazzo. During winter his focus is skiing, winning some comps, but during summer he climbs 3 - 5 times a week.

"He has not a program of training. He just climbs the routes he likes", says his father Michele who does not climb any longer. Still the father's ticklist is more impressive compared to his 137 cm son.

 
 
9a FA again by Joe Kinder (38)  (29) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJoe Kinder has done the FA of Diarrhea Mouth 9a in Rifle. His winter plan is working and to do an extension of his Bone Tomahawk 9a+ which could be his first 9b. (c) Steve Rokks

"Done deal. Bolted May 2017, tried on 4 separate mini-trips since May 2018 when my career imploded. Super aggressive crux in a horizontal roof. I think I calculated 30 days. Life is different now, but I'm still going hard so fuck it all. Climbing is my love and passion and it's what I will always remember no matter what. All I need is the belief and support from the ones who love me."

 
 
Tainted Love 8b trad for Katha Saurwein  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKatha Saurwein, one of the best female multi discipline climbers, has done her first 8b trad, Tainted Love in Squamish. (c) Jon Glassberg

"I knew I wanted to try ‘Tainted love’ before coming here as this stemming corner with an almost closed crack in the corner and blank sidewalls, first ascended by Hazel Findlay looked stunning. It’s about fifteen to twenty meters high and is protected by small offset wires and one cam. At first both Jorg (Verhoeven, who also did it) and I had a hard time getting off the ground, we didn’t know how to move, how to position our body. From session to we got a better feeling for the open dihedral and at one point we both had our own beta worked out, which was actually quite different, due to our height difference.

On our fourth session our goal was to get used to placing the gear, but as I started climbing it felt great, so I just kept on going. I was so focused on my climbing that I wasn’t really scared, and as I slowly made it higher and higher I found myself up top before realizing what had happened."

 
 
Combined World Cup - 2018  Facebook
 

1. Jakob Schubert 48 - Janja Garnbret 36
2. Tomoa Narasaki 54 - Akiyo Noguchi 360
3. Kokoro Fujii 960 - Miho Nonaka 450
4. Yushiyuki Ogata 1 440 - Jessica Pilz 1 050
5. Sean McColl 4 860 - Stasa Gejo 12 960
6. Kai Harada/Nicolas Collins 11 520 - Anna Tsyganova 15 600

The calculation is based on multiplying the two best relative ranking results, for each discipline, among the ones doing the Combined. Janja Garnbret 36 score is based on 4 * 9 in Speed although her best results has been #24 and #32. Jakob Schubert's score of 48 is based on 1 in Lead, 3 * 2 in Boulder and 2 and 4 in Speed.

The big surprise is #6 Nicolas Collins from Belgium. Previously to the last two comps in China he had participated in this year, his best Lead result was #42 and in his two Boulder WC's he was #12 and #67. In China he stepped up dramatically as he was #10 and 12 in Lead (2 and 3 relative ranking) and in Speed #27 and 31 (5 and 5). Interview is coming up.

 
 
Said Belhaj does Action Directe 9a  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSaid Belhaj has done the 23rd repeat of Action Directe in Frankenjura which Wolfgang Gullich opened in 1991. Today it is considered the world’s first 9a. Ray Demski

First time I went to the Frankenjura was in -96 but AD was not even a fantasy to climb at the time.
Then in -15 I went up to check the moves for the 1st time. Everything seemed possible exept the jump in the start. This spring I tried for 1 week and managed all the moves. On this trip, with 1 month of preparation I was back. I felt weaker than in the spring and the progress went backwards in the end during a 3 week period. I was also very warm for the season which didnt make it easier for me as some moves were in my limit. After a 5 day break from AD, climbing in Margalef, I came back. The temps had dropped and I felt well rested. I sent the same day on my 2nd go. To be honest I never thought I would do it this season but hoped that resting and better conditions would make miracles -and so they did.

The route and its history was the only true reason I wanted to do it as its somehow been a part of my life since I started climbing.”

 
 
8B by Thomas Lindinger  Facebook
 

 
 
Die perfekte welle sit 8A+ by Karoline Sinnhuber  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKaroline Sinnhuber, who previously has done four 8B's, has done Die perfekte welle sit 8A+ in Ötztal. In total, the Austrian who was #8 in the Boulder WC in Munich this year, has done 66 boulders 8A and harder. © Manuel Schof

 
 
Finals in Xiamen  Facebook
 

 
 
Austria wins Lead National Team Ranking  Facebook
 

National Team Ranking
1. Austria 1 528
2. Japan 1 468
3. Slovenia 1 428
4. France 959
5. Italy 822

Last year, Slovenia won ahead of France, Japan, Austria and Italy. Complete results

 
 
Garnbret and Schubert overall Lead Champions  (7) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture1. Janja Garnbret SLO 550 - Jakob Schubert AUT 495
2. Jessica Pilz AUT 505 - Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 466
3. Jain Kim KOR 354 - Romain Desgranges/Domen Skofic 356
4. Manon Hily FRA 238
5. Mei Kotake JPN - 228 - Hyunbin Min KOR 251
Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

 
 
Jessica Pilz and Domen Skofic win on countback  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJessica Pilz, the Lead World Champion, got her second WC victory in Xiamen by topping both the semi and the final route. Janja Garnbret was runner up by topping the final but not the semi. Interestingly, Slovenia had four girls in the final and Japan three.

1. Jessica Pilz AUT - Domen Skofic SLO
2. Janja Garnbret SLO - Stefano Ghisolfi ITA
3. Akiyo Noguchi JPN - Hyunbin Min KOR
Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

Among the male, Domen Skofic won over Stefano Ghisolfi also on countback from the semi as they reached the same hold in the final. For Domen this was the first victory since 2016 when he won overall by winning three events.

 
 
6.71 by Yushiyiki Ogata in Speed  Facebook
 

Yushiyiki Ogata set a personal best with 6.71 in Speed with Tomoa Narasaki runner up at 6.98. Bassa Mawem won and his best time was 5.60. Complete results

Interesting is that only five Combined athletes, who normally make semi in Lead/Boulder, did get a results meaning that many guys did loose the opportunity to get a very good Speed results. As it was more or less the same thing last weekend, several guys who have twice made it to the semi in Lead/Boulder missed a great possibility to have gotten a good Combined result in 2018.

In 2019, the Top-20 in the Combined World Cup will compete for six spots to Tokyo but as there is a limit to just two per nation, probably, all Top-14 among the male will make it.

Among the female, Futaba Ito (16) had the fastest time at 10.34 followed by Akiyo Noguchi 10.69. In total, nine non-Speed specialists competed. Aries Susanti Rahayu won and her best time was 7.53.

 
 
Bain de Sang 9a by Mathieu Holtz  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMathieu Holtz, who started out 2018 having done nine 8c's during the last six years, has done his second 9a, Bain de Sang in St Loup. Including also three 8c's, we asked 32-year-old, how he can explain this great progress.

"Since I became a dad last year I’ve had less time for myself. I’ve put a lot more effort in my training so that I was able to make the most out of my free time. St Loup is a crag that perfectly suit my climbing style, like Bellosset. I don’t have any time to waste anymore and I always try to switch my mind into fighting mode so i can make every day out climbing count."

 
 
8a garments have arrived!  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureWe have created Hoodies and T-Shirts branded with the 8a.nu logo for all our fans. Garments are made out of 100% organic cotton and are Fair Trade approved! 8a apparel is available for both men and women.
Order you hoodie and t-shirt here.

 
 
Paige Claasen doing Algorithm 9a  (7) Facebook
 

 
 
3 + 7 double tops in Xiamen  Facebook
 

In the qualification in Xiamen, three female and seven male topped both routes. Among the Top-12 female, there were 4 from Japan and Slovenia, 3 from Austria and one from Korea. Among the male, 8 from Japan in Top-21. Complete results

Live streaming on Sunday GMT - 8
09:45-10:45 Speed Final (LIVE)
13:00-15:30 Men and Women Lead Semi-Final (LIVE)
18:30-20:30 Lead Final for Men and Women (LIVE)

 
 
Trafic 8B traverse by Caroline Sinno  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCaroline Sinno, who previously has done seven 8A+’, has done her second 8B traverese* in Fontainebleau, Trafic. Great video.

A dream came true! First 8B climbed by a woman Cathy Miquel back in 2002! A piece of history and power endurance. I would have never believed holding those infamous slopers and doing it in a few sessions ;)”

* Most of the traverses in Font are graded based on a separate difficulty scale in between routes and boulders. This means that an 8B traverese could be compared with an 8A+ boulder.

 
 
Abusive Love 9a by Luca Bana  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLuca Bana has done Abusive Love 9a in Paline. ”Yeah! A 40 meters power-endurance challenge! Intro 8b+ into very pumpy/sustained 8c. 9a-range should be ok, but let's see what the others say!

 
 
Last WC this weekend in Xiamen  Facebook
 

The seventh and last Lead WC takes place in Xiamen this weekend but there is not so much excitement. Among the female, the overall podium has already been set; Janja Garnbret, Jessica Pilz and Jain Kim. Among the male, Jakob Schubert and Stefano Ghisolfi have secured gold and silver. Romain Desgranges will most likely get the bronze if not Domen Skofic wins the last event.

Also the Combined ranking, where you count the two best results, based on the relative ranking of the ones doing Combined, is more or less set as the best Japanese will not participate.

On Sunday there will be live-streaming from Xiamen starting with semi at 13.00 and finals at 18.30.

 
 
James Litz 9b? profile  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods just repeated and suggested an upgrade to 9a+ of James Litz, Ace of Spade, as well as saying his harder variation Peruvian Necktie could be 9b. Many other also think James grades are a bit too stiff and Mike Williams agrees.

"It's almost tragic that Litz cares so little about pushing grades in climbing. I mean, he likes it, obviously, but he was gifted with the same genetic ability as Ondra and Megos. If he was also gifted with Ondra's drive and pushing grade motivation, he could have been the leading climber over the last decade. I've climbed with, or watched, a lot of the best out there: Megos, Jimmy Webb, Siegrist, James Pearson, but watching Litz is something else. Without a doubt, he has the strongest core I've ever seen."

James Litz was one of the best climbers in the world already back in 2004 having done an 8c+ as well as Dreamtime 8C.

"I hear this type of thing all the time about what people think I should have or could have done with climbing. I look at it more like what motivates me? My love of climbing has very little to do with impressing people or being famous on Instagram. I think most people cannot relate to that. While I wont back away from a challenge, I am just as happy bolting 5.12s and 5.13s and climbing with small groups of friends."

How much effort was needed to do them?
I bolted the routes with Erik Kubiak, one of the most hard working prolific route developers in the Western US, and started putting effort in on Ace of Spades in Fall of 2012 and did it that season. I started working Peruvian Necktie in Spring of 2013 and finished it in the Fall of 2013. I would say it took me six weekends of climbing once I had the beta. The crag is probably 3.5 hours away.

What do you think about the 9a+ and 9b suggestion from Daniel?
Honestly I have no idea. I've never been on a 5.15/9a+. Daniel is far more qualified to talk about routes in that grade range. Erik thought they may be 5.15 as well. I think it's possible I may have compressed the grades to fit into a category of grades that I am more familiar with. I just thought they were pretty hard. I haven't really had any chance to spend time on hard routes if they are not local to me. I climbed on 9a's in Spain but they were totally different style. I got on some routes at the Red River Gorge when they were projects. I guess they were eventually rated 9a or harder. Peruvian is far more difficult than those.

What are you doing beside climbing?
Endurance mountain bike racing, multigun competition and bolting little private cliffs. I have a two year old girl. I spend a lot of time with her. I don't get to travel for climbing much. I have done everything that interests me locally so it's hard to find motivation other than finding and doing new routes. I have been doing database programming for years.

What about trying to repeat a 9a+?
I would love to try more 9a+ climbs. Maybe one day I can leave my career and move my family to Norway. All sarcasm aside, the reality for me is that if its not fairly local I probably cannot find finance and time to make it happen. I can kind of keep an permanent onsight level at around 13c/8a+ with a day or two of climbing a week and if I need to climb harder I can train up to 14/8b+ pretty quick. That puts me in the fun zone for short trips that are more manageable. I'm having a lot of fun climbing right now and dragging my kid to new places.

 
 
Old Maid 8c+ by Roland Wagner (38)  Facebook
 

Roland Wagner has done his second 8c+ in 2018, Old Maid in Wilhelmswand. "One of my favorite and hardest routes. Quite the challenge... 12 days total." Including also two 8c's this year, the good news is that the 38 year old is at his peak.

 
 
Climbskin Ambassadors, why Climbskin?  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAt Climbskin we are proud of the products we have created because we know the great work there is behind them, but even more, we are proud of the people who have joined us to share our enthusiasm and commitment for a project that combines top quality with values.

All of you, especially our ambassadors, Teams and friends, are a brutal source of motivation, thank you very much! We are proud of the products we offer, and believe you will enjoy it as much as we already do. Video messages from their Ambassadors.

 
 
JAM : The Journey  Facebook
 

 
 
Joe Blau 8c+ by Margo Hayes  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMargo Hayes, who just did two 8c's in Oliana, reports on Insta that she has done Joe Blau 8c+ in Oliana. Including the two 9a+', La Rambla and Biographie, the 20 year old is a contender for having the most impressive female ticklist ever together with Angy Eiter. (c) Jan Novak

 
 
 
Jacopo Larcher repeats Prinzip Hoffnug 8b/+ E9/10  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJacopo Larcher has made the third ascent of Beat Kammerlander's Prinzip Hoffnung 8b/+ E9/10 at Bürser Platte, Voralberg, in Austria. Beat put it up as a sport route in 1997 but later decided to chop the bolts and in 2009, beeing 50, he made the first trad ascent.

Jacopo, who previously has done two 9a's, worked the route some 15 times including some four lead attempts. So what can you say about the difficulty?

It's hard to relate it to a sport routes, it's something completely different, it's more mental. The climb is really technical and you can slip everywhere, which is not easy to assume as the protections are often not good and should not fall. Sure, I know grades are important for the media but I don't care about them anymore.

E-grades are mainly used in UK for trad climbing and it measures (speculates) the overall difficulty, including the danger, how hard it is to onsight it. There exist some E11 that also have gotten an 8c+ grade. In other words, for some reason, the trad routes have for some reason a harder, deflated, grading scale compared to bolted routes. So stay assure that Prinzip Hoffnug should not be compared in difficulty to a modern 8b/+ sport route.

 
 
The Story... 8C by Giuliano Cameroni (16)  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGiuliano Cameroni has done Dave Graham's The Story of 2 Worlds 8C in Cresciano from 2005 which might be the most known boulder in the world. The name was a statement to the previous grade inflation which actually made the it stop. It is a sit start to The Dagger 8B (+) making it to a great spectacular roof boulder.

"Yes! Unbelievable! This problem is one of the most complete I have ever seen. In the morning, the end was completely wet, but luckily in the afternoon it was almost dry. 3rd go today and falling down at the end on the first and the second try cause I slipped with the hand and the hook. but the battle against this boulder is not finish, on the other side there is Dreamtime!"

Giuliano, 16, is the youngest to have done an 8C. Previously Adam was the youngest beeing 17.

 
 
Lucid Dreaming 8C by Daniel Woods  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChuck Fryberger reports on instagram that Daniel Woods has made the first repeat of Paul Robinson's Lucid Dreaming 8C in Buttermilks - Bishop. Originally Paul gave it 8C+ but later he took out the +.

In total, Daniel has now done 20 8C's out of which six during the last five months and he is #1 in the 8a ranking which he has been for some years now. (c) © Thomas Caleyron

 
 
Two 8B flashes and a 8C FA by Daniel Woods  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods has had a great trip to Penoles where he flashed two 8B's, out of which El Infierno was a previous 8B+. He also did two 8B+ and made the FA of El Diablo 8C. Photo by Kyle Berkompas @Cff_climbing

"Psyched to have climbed this thing final day/final try of the trip. It sits in the sun all day and was just possible to session at night for me. The line is beautiful ascending a 25 foot 50 degree overhanging ships prow. The climbing starts out with a 7C+ crack straight into a sustained 8B+ with a scary topout. It is hard to rehearse the moves due to its height. I spent 5 days on this thing and somehow pulled it out of my ass.

 
 
8c+ by Stefano Carnati (15)  (1) Facebook
 

Stefano Carnati has done his first 8c+, deus irae(after break) in Claro. "wow!! Third ascent after the break. It took me a total of four days of work. It is a really short and bouldery route and above all painful, but it was worth it!!!!zaza!!!"The 15 year old has previously done six 8b+, the first one when he was 13.

 
 
9a by Fabrizio Peri (42)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFabrizio Peri has done Grandi Gesti 9a in Sperlonga. Planetmountain has the full story.

"I hope my achievement can act as a stimulus to those who, like me, 42-year-old with a beautiful family and job, still want to fuel their passions and strive to improve.

 
 
8A+ and 8B by Mirko Caballero (12)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMirko Caballero has got a great start in 2014 with one 8A+ and Meadowlark Lemon Stand 8B in Red Rocks. "Finally! Sent it on my last day in Red Rocks. So good! I'll try the sit on my next visit...", which is 8C.

Mirko turns into a teenager next week and is the youngest to have done 8B+, which was previously at 15 years by Adam Ondra, who also has the 8C record at 17. Photo by Three Peak Films

 
 
8C also by Chris Webb Parsons  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Webb Parsons has done Dai Koyamada's Insanity of Grandeur 8C in Chironico and reports on Instagram.

"YES!!! Just finished of Insanity Of Grandure 8C. After 6 days of work and falling on the slab top out twice (yes twice) today I topped it out with the rain and snow poring down and skin so torn up. Thanks to the amazing people I have met on this trip and a huge thanks goes to two incredible people @sashaturrentine and @alexjohnson89 for coming to spot me and support me on this journey. This journey has not just been about climbing, it's about new friendship, happiness and so much more.

 
 
8C again for Woods (FA) and Webb  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods have made the FA of The Nest 8C in Red Rocks. "This was a joint effort FA with my dawg @jwebxl. So cool to go to #war on this rig and share his motivation to get closer and closer! In the end we sent on our last tries and stood on top of one of the raddest boulders I have seen."

James Webb repeated shortly after and comments. "One of the most amazing lines you'll ever see. Huge thanks to Kenny barker and Andy raether for finding, cleaning, and sharing this gem with us. 5 days. (c) Bearcam

 
 
Romain Desgranges interview  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRestjug has made an interesting interview with Romain Desgranges who started climbing when he was 14 years old and won the Euro Champion in 2013, being 30 years old.

"I don’t think I am particularly gifted for climbing, I don’t have the super-powers that climbers such as Adam and Sean can have. I’ve got to work through things time and time again, learn, repeat, do it again and do it again to pull off things that might be innate for them. My talent might be that of being able to train really hard and systematically so that I can compensate for the lack of other qualities. Even technique improvement can become a matter of repetitions that you just need to go through. Because of this, I might end up working like a mechanical robot or analyse things like an engineer, so that I can hopefully look like I have a feline instinct for climbing : )"

"Momo" is also a world class boulderer and during four days he did nine boulders graded 8A to 8B. "In general the grades were homogeneous within the area and there is some type of national grading, they weren’t the hardest blocs of those grades that I happen to have tried : )

 
 
DPM Digital #26  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn the latest issue of DPM digital magazine #26 you will find many nice articles including interviews and videos of James Webb and Ashima Shiraishi.

 
 
Meadowlark Lemon 8B+ (C) also for James Webb  Facebook
 

James Webb has made quick work of Meadowlark Lemon in Red Rocks which he actually was close to flash. He also gives it a personal grade of 8B+ like Daniel Woods.

"1st go on the 2nd day. Such a beautiful line and huge props to Paul on the FA! Time for some searching and cleaning new projects.

 
 
Meadowlark 8B+ (C) for Daniel Woods  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods has done Paul Robinson's Meadowlark Lemon in Red Rocks for which he gives a personal grade of 8B+. (c) Bearcam

"Have dreamed about this line! One of the most aesthetic and fun to climb lines I have done. Jimmy and I warmed up in the sun, then made our way back into the "ice box," to meet up with Nalle and Bearcam at the lark. Jimmy was so close on the flash, falling at the top. We all were able to put the moves together very quickly. A half hour later, I was standing on top. It took me 3 tries from the start including some time to work out the moves. grade aside, congrats to Paul for opening such a beautiful line.

 
 
Third 9b+ FA by Adam Ondra  (23) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has established his third 9b+ FA, Vasil Vasil in Sloup. In total the 20 year old has done 86 routes 9a and harder out of which 21 are 9a+ or harder FA's.

"2 years and 20-25 days on this thing. It is definitely not mega line, it is painful, short and in dirty place. But it was there, I bolted it 5 years ago and I couldn't leave it unclimbed. It is basically one-mover. 7 meters of burly 8b route into hard boulder problem, which is 8B+ on itself for sure. One single move is at least 8B. Very frustrating process of making no progression for long days, but when it finally happened, on super cold sticky day, it felt like nothing. In a short moment it was all over. Short, but LONG awaited moment. I am so happy."

Next year, Adam has said he plans to do the Lead World Cup. In 2009, being 16 years old, he won and this year he was #1 and #2 in the two WC's he entered. National Geographic has appointed him as one of the adventurer of 2013. Click here and then below the picture to vote. (c) Petr Pavlicek

 
 
First 8C by Toshi Takeuchi  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureToshi Takeuchi has repeated Paul Robinson's Meadowlark Lemon in Red Rocks. "DONE!!!! YEEEEESSSS Best Boulder I've ever done. 3 days. 4th ascent? So much respect for Paul to find & FA this amazing bloc. HAPPY THANKS GIVING DAY!!!

 
 
PuntX 9a by Muriel Sarkany (39)  (12) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMuriel Sarkany, one of the best competition climbers in the history, has done PuntX 9a in Gorges du Loup. When Alex Chabot put it up in 2007 he did not give a grade but said, "the hardest route in Gorges du Loup", although three more 9a's already existed. Josune Bereziartu, Charlotte Durif, Sasha Digulian and Alizee Dufraisse have previously claimed the 9a grade.

Between 1997 and 2004, Muriel won the Overall WC 5 times and the remaining 3 years she was runner-up! The 153 cm tall stopped competing in 2010 and has since been doing some great progress peaking so far being 39 years old.

""It is a dream which becomes reality! To make one 9a, I dreamed about it and I did not think that it would become true one day. I looked a lot to find this route and as soon as I tried it, I felt that one day I could make it. I did not make all the moves and I couldn't do three sequences without stopping. The holds are small and the moves are bouldery but it wasn't morpho for me;-)

It was a big investment in time and in energy, but the result was really worth it! Ready for the next project ;-) but while waiting for to find it, I have only a desire: Try many new routes"

 
 
8C+ and 9A are needed to take us further  Facebook
 

Peter Baumgart has written an article with a clear message to the best boulderers in the world, 8C+ and 9A are needed to take us further.

" I sometimes get the impression that the top boulderers are locked in a game ‘I do not want to be the first to propose 9A and then being called off by the others to have over-rated it’. And this is a bit strange. What could happen?

Let’s say Daniel claims 9A. Big news. Sure the others will soon attempt to repeat it. Let’s assume the first repeater gives it 8C. So? Will the reputation of Daniel suffer? Most likely not.

Fred Nicole has never been called a weak jerk despite several of his problems have been downgraded. His name rightfully stands out as one of the top boulderers who actually took the sport further."

 
 
9th 8C FA by Daniel Woods  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods reports on instagram with a Bearcam picture that he has opend Defying Gravity 8C which is his 18th of that grade out of which nine FA's.

"This #beast is 25 feet tall, 58 degrees overhung, and #explosive. It is located at #thunder ridge in the #south platte of #coloradical. For sure in my top 3 list of best boulders that I have done.

 
 
8C by Iker Arroitajauregi  Facebook
 

Iker Arroitajauregi has made the FA of Txapela 8C at Albarracin. Here is a very nice Hoya Moros video made by him. The 36 year old is a late bloomer and three years ago his personal best was 8A+ and last winter he did four 8B+. Interview in Spanish together with nice pictures and videos.

 
 
The Bridge of Ashes 8B+ (C) by James Webb in 30 min  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Webb and has done Dave Graham's high class test piece in RMNP, The Bridge of Ashes, giving it a personal grade of 8B+ as he did it in just 30 minutes.

"3rd ascent. Such a dope problem! So cool that Dave found and created this guy. Not many people have that hard work ethic accompanied by the vision needed to see things like this. A true pioneer no doubt. Painful rock but amazing climbing on a stunning feature. Climbed it in 30 minutes so for me it feels a bit below 8C. Nonetheless i'm stoked to have climbed it! Rad!!"

James is #4 in the ranking but he would have been #2 without all his personal gradings. During the last two weeks, he has flashed ten boulders 8A to 8B. His trend diagram shows that he is about taking bouldering into the next level.

 
 
8C FA by Chris Webb Parsons  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Webb Parsons has after eight days done his fifth 8C, Belly Of The Beast in Peak District which is a six move sit start extension to Ken Roof Low 8B+ (old video). In the 8a ranking game he is #7."I'm in the best shape of my life right now."

What is up next and what about the WC next year?
"I'm in UK for another week then I'm off to Font, Swiss for a month or two then I'll be living in Austria for the foreseeable future. Yes, I'll be doing all the WC in 2014." This year he was #12 in the last WC. (c) Jose Luis Olivares Ferrandiz

 
 
8b by Angie Scarth-Johnson (9)  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAngelina Scarth-Johnson becomes the youngest ever to have done an 8b by Swingline in Red River Gorge. The amazing story is that the Australian started to climb only two years ago and that two weeks ago she did her first 7c+. She is 125 cm tall and last year her personal best was 6c+. More info to come.

 
 
Alizée Dufraisse'den 8c+ zorluğunda tırmanış  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlizée Dufraisse in Margalef'te 8c+ zorluğundaki Coma Sant Pere rotasını tırmandı. "toplam 8 tırmanış günü sürdü.Sonra Siurana da kolay tırmanışlar yapacağım ve daha zorları deneyeceğim. "Felix the cat" emniyetimi aldı (Neumärker)" 8c+ zorluğundaki Politicamente Corruptos rotasınıda tırmanmıştı.

 
 
8C and 8B+ by Jan Hojer in Font  (12) Facebook
 

Jan Hojer has probably set some kind of record in Fontainebleau, having done one 8C (TripHop) and one 8B+(L'Apparemment assis) during the same day. The German Boulder giant (187 cm and 81 kilos) moves to #2 in the ranking game.

What have you done to be in the best shape ever in your life?
I don't know.. I took many weeks off after vail because of a foot injury that spoiled all summer plans and let my motivation drop... But since this break I am more motivated than ever, train more efficiently and purposely and I'm surprised to see how fast it pays off!!

 
 
Jaws II 9a+ by Paul Robinson  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePaul Robinson, one of the world's best boulderers, has made an interesting comeback with his harness, having done Jaws II 9a+ in Rumney. The last time he did some serious bolt-clipping was in 2009 when he did Psychedelic 9a.

Well this one sure was a process for me!!! The first boulder was my true epic and it took a while to get it sorted and then the top dead point got epic and I fell there 6 TIMES!!!! Today it clicked and it all came together... just in time too! Leaving tomorrow!

I had always been amazed by Jaws and had always had the dream of climbing 9a+! I first tried this line in 2011 and I could not get the line out of my head. I knew I had to come back. Fortunately this fall was the perfect time. I trained a bit of endurance before coming and set to work on the line!

I am not sure how many days I tried it... probably around 8 or 9! The crux was really hard for me because I could not decide which beta to use so I spent multiple days trying each beta until I found the one that worked for me!
© Alex Kahn

 
 
8B+ (C) by Jan Hojer in Font  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJan Hojer has done the first repeat of Seastian Frigault's Mecanique Elementaire in Fontainebleau from 2006, giving it a personal grade of 8B+. "Yesterday I wanted to check out the moves of ME and somehow ended up on top of the boulder. So basically my second session on it because I did Opium (the top part of ME) two years ago. Amazing athletic test piece! I don't know why nobody's trying it?!

My primary goal for this trip is Trip Hop where I fell pretty close to the top, two days ago.. Hopefully it doesn't rain all week!


Two weeks ago, the 187 cm powerhouse, did three 8B's also in Font and he is #4 in the ranking game. In the Boulder WC, he was #8 this year after having won one event and been runner-up in another.

 
 
Three 9a's by Adam Ondra in a day in Frankenjura  (27) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra had an amazing day yesterday in Frankenjura where he quickly did three 9a's;
The Elder Statesman, "Close to flashing, fired it off 20mins later. Thanks for beta Alex! 1st 9a of the day."
The House of Shock, "Tough bouldering on tiny holds... 2nd 9a of the day, the hardest of the three.
Sever the Wicked Hand, "Tried two days before in severe humidity, now did it 1st go while clipping the draws in. 3rd 9a of the day, even though this one must be pretty soft."

In total, Adam has done 85 routes 9a and harder which is 3 times as many as the runner up on this list, Chris Sharma. On Friday, Adam will make a very interesting start at the Valence World Cup, the first WC for him for over two years. The next year, he plans to do the whole circuit. (c) Pete O'Donovan

 
 
8c slab by Paige Claasen  (10) Facebook
 

Jon Glassberg who has been around making films with many of the top guys during the many years reports on Facebook,

"Paige Claassen just sent one of the worlds hardest slabs! "Art Attack (8c) at Sasso Remeno, Italy! 2nd ascent since the FA in 2004! I could not even believe my eyes. Nearly the last day of the trip, in epic humidity and even some rain, she pulled it off. Possibly the single most impressive ascent I have ever witnessed!

 
 
Third 9a in five days by Gabri Moroni  (91) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGabri Moroni is setting some kind of record having done three 9a's in five days including The Elder Statesman today. According to Markus Bock's Frankenjura list including 15 routes 9a and harder, Gabri's three are ranked #2, #4 and #13. He has previously done Action Directe #5 in the list.

What have you done to be in the best shape of your life?
When I came back from Brazil in July I felt in my worst shape ever and over weight, so I trained hard for a couple of months. Mainly campus board and outdoor climbing for sure. Nothing extreme but four times a week and sometimes double sessions. During this time I also stay healthy, I mean eating well and not to much.

 
 
2nd 8A by Giorgia Tesio (12)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGiorgia Tesio has done Christian Core's superline Rampage 8A in Varazze which was her second 8A boulder. In the Arco Rock Junior 2013, she won the boulder event and was tied winner in Lead.

Michele Caminati comments, "Rampage is a really nice endurance style 8A problem, but it is quite powerful as well, so definitely a good job for a little girl!(c) Michele Francia

 
 
The Riverbed 8B and two 8A+' by Giuliano Cameroni (16)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGiuliano Cameroni has had a good weekend where he first did The Riverbed 8B and Massive Attack 8A+ in Magic Wood. On Sunday he did the FA of The Mentalist 8A+ in Switz.

 
 
Memento 8B+ by Martin Stráník  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMartin Stráník has had a very productive trip to Silvretta where he did Memento 8B+. "My childhood dream, fit my style perfectly! 4th go from start!" Memento video.

Many nice pictures at his blog from another eight boulder 8A to 8B/+ that he did. In 2007, Martin was #2 in the Bouldering World Championship being only 17 years old.

 
 
8C FA by James Webb in Mt Evans  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Webb has completed what he believes to be his first 8C, The Wheel of Wolvo in Mt Evans after putting in three days of work alongside Dave Graham and Daniel Woods.

"Yet another wheel of colorado! Amazing boulder problem we've always looked at but just thought it to be too hard. The break down is sick. A 10 move 8B+ into a 15 move 8A/+. A pumpy one for sure and suited my style/height so perfectly. Dave and Dan are close behind and will send next time for sure. Psyched to go back and try one of the harder exits!?"

Jimmy has previously done three 8Cs but has given a lower personal grade to each. In total Webb has recorded 18 boulders graded 8B+. This summer, he flashed three 8B's in Rocklands and has made a continuous progression in difficulty for eight straight years. He is now #3 in the ranking game.

 
 
The Meignan sibblings set a new family standard  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHugo Meignan has done Cosi fan tutti, 8c+ in Rodellar and he says it can even be 9a. "A tuffa broke about a month ago, adding a crux 3 fourth of the way up, instead of a rest. I think I must be the first to complete the route as it is now. The route is much harder than anything I've climbed before. It is a splendid 55 metre line with 2 cruxes. It took me 15 attempts."

Thoma (16) has onsighted two 8a+, Las dos golondrinas de la piscineta and Paideia.

Naïlé (9) has after having done three 8a's the last ten days, done her first 8b, Espirit Rebeld and she did it in only five tries.

Their father Lucas: "Since they were small, we initiated our five children to mountain sports. Their inspiration and that climbing can be practiced intensively and safely at an early age, led us to focus on this sport while continuing occasionally with other mountain sports."

 
 
8c by Mirko Caballero (12)  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMirko Caballero finishes of his long Euro trip by doing his first 8c, Stop Sika in Rawyl. "Decided to check out Rawyl for my last 4 days in Europe, and I get to send my first 8c!!! Took me 4 tries... Sick route and amazing scenery. PSYCHED! I felt really strong after 2 weeks bouldering in Magic Wood."

Mirko has grown a lot lately and is 165 cm tall. He needed only four tries over two days for the send. The only twelve year olds in the history of climbing that have a better tick list are Ashima Shiraishi and Adam Ondra.

 
 
8B again by Ashima Shiraishi (12)  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAshima Shiraishi has once again done an 8B, The Automator in RMNP. The twelve year old is actually the best female rock climber in the world and, in fact, she has been the #1 for more than a year now. No other woman has a more impressive tick list including several 8B's, an 8A flash and 8c+ routes.

Ashima has previously said that she wants to try Jade 8B+ in RMNP. (c) Alexandra Kahn

 
 
8B by Mirko Caballero (12) & Ashima Shiraishi (12)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMirko Caballero and Ashima Shiraishi have done One Summer in Paradise 8B in Magic Wood. They also both did 8A+ and 8A and Mirko plans to climb at least four times as many 7's as 8's. In the great picture by Rainer Eder, Mirko is climbing Unendliche Geschichte II 8A.

Mirko is on a 10 weeks summertrip in Europe. "We had a lot of fun climbing with the Raboutou and Ruana's. Brooke also sent Pura Vida, and Shawn also did Never Ending Story 1 & 2. They were really fun to climb with and there were a bunch of young guys from Switzerland, including Sam Ometz and Guiliano Camaroni. Sam and Guiliano are really strong!"

Ashima, 12 years old, is the only female who has done both 8B (boulder) and 8c+ (route); She's climbed both grades twice.

 
 
8a+ OS and bigwall by Sasha Digiulian  (8) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLast week, Sasha Digiulian won the celebrity DWS in USA and now she is the Dolomites doing some bigwalls. During a rest day, from big wall climbing, she onsighted Pole position 8a+ in Erto. During the summer vacation from the university studies she has also opened two 8b+ routes in South Africa.

During 2011 and 2012, she did six Lead World Cups including the World Champion, and she made it to the finals in all. In the 2011 World Champion she won the Combined title after being #2 in Bouldering. The 20 year old has been the 8a ranking game leader for the last four years!

 
 
9b by Adam Ondra in Flatanger and a 9a in Hell  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureYesterday, Adam Ondra made the FA of Iron Curtain 9b in Flatanger which was bolted by Lars Audun Nornes. "One project less, onto the next one! This one took me 6 days this trip plus quite many days of waiting for acceptable conditions. The sending was true heartbreaker, fell off one metre below the anchor because of wet hold in the morning, wanted to rest for the next day, but strong wind breaking the pole of the tents made me go out and send in a beutiful evening, together with Seb and Dharma."

Two weeks ago Adam also put up Purgatory 9a FA in Hell, see the picture by Petr Pavlicek. During Ondra's first two weeks in Flatanger, the conditions were poor because of heavy rain prior to his arrival, and later due to temperatures of up to 29 degrees. However, now conditions are better, and Adam will start to project the routes he bolted in May.

 
 
Third 8b+ in a month by Cameron Hörst (12)  (24) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCameron Hörst has done Dead Souls in American Fork which was his sixth 8b+ out of which three just the last month. "Fun route, but super mentally exhausting--skipping the 4th clip is scary...and I took a few bad, near-ground falls. ouch!"

His father Eric, a well known coach and auther of several climbing training books, comments the fall potential from eight metres.

"Cam sent the route on his 3rd day of work--local climbers brought crash pads to the cliff base so I could let a with a little more rope out and soften the fall a bit. Still, after belaying Cam on two especially bad falls from crux--I, as Dad and responsible adult, considered stopping him from attempting the climb further. The risk calculus was difficult, but given the crash pads in place I gave in to Cam's wish to try the route again, sine he fell twice from the last hard move.

 
 
Silbergeier 8b/+ MP by Barbara Zangerl  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePlanetmountain reports that Barbara Zangerl has repeated Silbergeier in Rätikon with six pitches up to 8b/+. Babsi was some years ago, one of the best boulderers with several 8A-8B's before an injury. Esteban Diez has made a short interview. © Sabine Knabl

Is this one your hardest multi-pitch route ever?
For sure, together with ‘End of Silence’ this is the hardest.

Can you tell us something about how the route is?
The route is very technical. Really small scarp holds. And nearly nothing for your feet somethimes. And I felt sometimes scared because of the big runouts...

Which part of the route was the hardest for you? Was it more like a mental problem?
The hardest pitch for me was the 5th. The 8b+. Two years ago I had to stop trying it because of an injury. Very special undercling moves. And you have to climb 3 hard pitches before. I was very lucky I had no falls yesterday. It was a fight for my head for sure :)

Are you going to try ‘Des Kaisers Neue Kleider’ this year and therefore close the famous trilogy?
I am not sure if I’ll try Kaisers Neue Kleider this year but I am very motivated to try it in general.

 
 
Another 9a (8c+) OS for Adam Ondra or?  (11) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra has onsigthed Torture physique in Gastlosen but he is unsure whether he just did the first 8c pitch or the 9a extension. If he has done the latter, he would give it a personal grad of 8c+.

"What a nice feeling of feeling strong! I kept climbing, clipped the first anchor of 8c (and didn't know about it, as there is only one bolt with lock-carabiner), continued, clipped the anchor of second pitch from the reinforced side-pull, unable to continue nor clip the second bolt of the anchor. While falling off, I thought that I had not sent even the first 8c. What a nice suprise was to find out that I might have just onsighted Torture Physique 2.0, which was graded 9a at first, that ends up in that anchor, even though I don't know if you are allowed to clip the anchor from underneath (reinforced hold) or you have to do this two more moves. Nevertheless, I did at least the first pitch and maybe the second one as well. Nevertheless, the second pitch seemed to me like easy or hard 8c+, depending on where it ends."

Adam has previously done two 9a's for which he has given a personal grade of 8c+. Later he did the FA of the second extension giving it 9a+ but says it might be 9b for shorter guys.
"This place is crazy!!! I love it here."

 
 
9a onsight by Adam Ondra - Interview update  (21) Facebook
 

Kairn reports that Adam Ondra has onsighted La Cabane au Canada 9a in Rawyl which Lionel Clerc made the FA of in 2006. The first 9a OS was made by Alex Megos this spring by Estado Critico in Siurana. It should also be mentioned that Adam Ondra last year onsighted two confirmed 9a in Red River Gorge, Pure Imagination and Golden Ticket, for which he choses to give a personal grade of 8c+. Previously, Adam has onsighted 15 8c+' and the runner up in this Contest has onsighted one.

Planet Mountain has the 9a interview where he confirms the grade and says he did not have time to warm up properly, just half a route and than"“ran around and flapped my arms as best I could and then set off.”

 
 
8c/+ FA by Sasha Digiulian  (18) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSasha Digulian has opened Rolihlahla 8c+ in Waterfall Boven which is the hardest sport climbing route ever put up by a female. The 20 year old increases the lead in the ranking game, as she has been holding for some years now. (c) Keith Ladzinski, who also together with Andy Mann have full film footage and amazing photos from the whole process!


"I am incredibly excited with this new accomplishment. The route is one of the most spectacular lines I have ever climbed. It is also my first time doing a first ascent of a route and it was a fun experience to realize that something was possible. The climb also includes crack climbing, big falls, and some very technical portions that required my full commitment. In comparison to other routes that I have done I am comfortable with considering the route 8c+.

 
 
James Webb is taking it to new grade levels  (4) Facebook
 

James Webb continues his rampage in the Rocklands. In two weeks he managed to do 25 8A's and harder, using his personal grades. 10 of those 25 ascents were flashes!

Most of them were originally graded one or two grades harder by the FA. Yesterday he flashed Green Mamba and Shosholoza giving them a personal grade of 8A although they were both set up as hard 8B's.

 
 
8B (+) flash by James Webb  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Webb has flashed Daniel Woods' Sky in the Rocklands giving it a personal grade of 8B. Based on the comments made by others who have climbed it, Sky should be considered one of the best hard boulders in the world.

"One of the best feelings I've had in climbing. Such a rad bloc. Props to Daniel for establishing this incredible line. Fit me perfectly. 8B+ flash sounds nice but this is just not the case. At least for my height."

James is #4 in the ranking game, but when it comes to flashes in the past year he has the most impressive list.

 
 
8c by Mikel Linacisoro (12)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMikel Linacisoro has done his first 8c, White Zoombie in Baltzola (video). One year ago, his PB was 8a+ and two years ago, 7b+. In the ranking game, the 12 year old is #1 among all guys up to 16 years old.

Noteworthy is that during the last ski season, competing against one year older kids, he was in the podium in every discipline he tried, i.e., champion in the Spanish Cup, Spanish champion in Slalom, Spanish champion in Super Combined, runner-up in the Spanish Giant and third in the Super Giant Spanish Championships... He's also good at climbing competitions since he ended second in the Spanish Cup after being 2nd, 1st and 2nd. Maybe you want to have a look to an interview we recently had with him in Spanish. Pic: Bebeblok.

 
 
Mind Control 8c (+) by Barbara Raudner (40)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBarbara Raudner has done Mind Control 8c (+) in Oliana which was put up by Chris Sharma. "For me Mind Control is the most beautiful route I have ever tried. I am very grateful to have had the opportunity to climb such a fantastic line in that international spot in Oliana.

Thanks to all the nice people with who we spend a really great time there. Thanks for all the „venga, venga“!! Hope to see you all again!! Vamos!!"
full story at her website (c) Claudiaziegler

 
 
8b again by the Hörst brothers 10 & 12  (11) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCameron Hörst (12) has done True Love in Red River Gorge which was his seventh 8b and harder send. "Really small holds and way reachy for my size. I agree with Mike Doyle, this is harder than God's Own Stone!"

The day after, little brother Jonathan (10) did Swingline 8b. "Great route; very complex-- it took me seven tries." Last month, the little brother did God's Own Stone which goes at 8b+ in the latest topo.

Here is a recent training article focusing on kids progress, made by their father Eric. Eric has sold more than 300 000 climbing training books and has been climbing for more than 35 yeras but when it comes to climbing hard, his sons are now 2-3 grades ahead.

 
 
8b+ (c) onsight by Evgeniya Malamid  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEvgeniya Malamid has onsighted Los Humildes pa Casa 8b+ in Oliana. "It was just the last route of the day and I wasn't going to onsight it."

It was set up as an 8c which some still think it is although the start is changed. The are less than a handful female that have onsighted 8b+ before including an 8c by Charlotte Durif.

The last year Evgeniya was #9 in the Lead World Cup. "This year I'm going to compete in the World Cup and the European Championship, now climbing on rocks is for pleasure and for training before the season!" (c) Heiko Wilhelm

  2018
2017
2016
2015
2014
2013
2012
2011
2010
2009
2008
2007
2006
2005
2004


Videos
2018
2017
2016
2015
2014
2013
2012
2011
2010
Next Page ->