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Forum: FRA / Editorial / Children should focus more on onsight and doing volumes Login in to contribute
Children should focus more on onsight and doing volumes
OffLine 8a.nu
  2016-11-09 00:00:00    
Adam Ondra and Alex Megos had an onsight focus as juniors and they become, without injuries, the best in the world. On the other hand, we hear about more juniors getting finger injuries at the same time as their focus is to project down hard redpoint projects.

Sometimes, 8a actually do not report about remarkable redpoints by kids if it turns out that they have been projecting it too long.

In practice, it is much more easy for a kid to find and redpoint, together with their parents, a special 8a route where it is easier to be short, in comparison to onsight all 7a's. The problem is of course that ones you have done the 8a, it can feel very disappointing to fall on a 7a onsight.

For adults, you should have a wide grade pyramid based on factor three at least but for a kid, they are at risk if the factor is below five. So have you not already done five 7c+ and onsighted five 7b, you should not go for an 8a project!

It should be noted that the original idea with the 8a ranking game is to count the Top-10 climbs and give good bonuses for onsights and flashes, in order to reduce the interest of just working on some few long term redpoint projects. Here is our new onsight/flash ranking. Juniors that are doing great also in this category are:
Jan Vopat, Laura Rogara and Oriane Bertone.
OnLine Philippe Vaucher
  2016-11-09 13:59:50    
Interesting. Reguarding injuries, do you recommand trying things above your maximum grade? Thinking about it, it feels like my shoulder injury (tendinitis) started around the time when I started trying harder things instead of staying around my top grade. Not even projecting, just trying onsight/toprope stuffs.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2016-11-09 18:51:01    
I do not recommend kids going above their  maximum grade until you have done five of your top grade.
OffLine Sune Hermit
  2016-11-11 12:38:34    
I actually agree with you for once, Jens. I'm not certain about the numbers three and five in the pyramid - maybe it's different for different individuals - but I DO agree that onsighting close to your max is better than long-term projecting something way too hard, at least from an injury perspective. Plus it's a lot more fun too :-)