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Forum: GLOBAL / News / Victory for Schubert and Garnbret in Munich Login in to contribute
Victory for Schubert and Garnbret in Munich
OffLine 8a.nu
  2019-05-20 00:00:00    
Adam Ondra did the first three boulder first go and it seemed he had secured the win. Then Jakob Schubert did the fourth boulder putting some pressure on Ondra to at least get the zone but he did not get very close actually. This was the third WC Boulder victory for Schubert who also has won 18 Lead WC's.

1. Jakob Schubert AUT 34 - Janja Garnbret SLO 44
2. Adam Ondra CZE 33 - Fanny Gibert FRA 44
3. Jan Hojer GER 24 - Mia Krampl SLO 33
4. Aleksey Rubtsov RUS 23 - Julia Chanourdie FRA 22
5. Anze Peharc SLO 14 - Ievgeniia Kazbekova RUS 13
6. Jongwon Chon KOR 13 - Katja Kadic SLO 12
Complete results

Among the female, Janja Garnbret won her seventh straight Boulder World Cup by just needing five attempts for the four final boulders. Runner-up was Fanny Gibert needing eight tries to top them all.

It most be mentioned that the five best male Japanese who all where in the Top-7, two weeks ago, did not participate as they are training and competing at home as a preparation for the WCH. Among the female, six of the Top-8 in Wujiang, out of which the four best from Japan, did also not participate.
OffLine Kauz Kauzius
  2019-05-19 21:25:23    
Jens, could you please not spoil every single comp? I mean, most sites only show the results once you have clicked on the article - giving consent to be spoilt so to say. Thanks in advance.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2019-05-19 21:28:36    
I think it is quite normal for the media to report the winners in the headlines :)
OffLine Kauz Kauzius
  2019-05-19 22:27:49    
Well i checked, just to be sure, and no other climbing media ( UKclimbing, Climbing.com, Rockandice, planetmountain, klettern.de...) do that - alright grimper does it... Apart from wether or not others do it, It is just annoying. Not everybody is able to watch it live. One accidental click onto 8a and the whole thing is spoiled, at least for me. So, if you insist on this, go ahead it is your site after all. But now that I think about it, this forum being so toxic in general, I guess it is all in all better to just stay away completely from this site
OnLine Robert Busch
  2019-05-19 22:56:05    
I just take a look on 8a and i want to be informed - Well done reporting, Thanx!!
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2019-05-19 23:25:12    
The thing is that 8a always report about comps within hours and mostly within minutes just like any other sport media. However, when it comes to climbing media they very seldom report the results within 24 hours but when they do they report who won in the headline :)
OffLine Sebastian Peace
  2019-05-20 00:58:28    
@Jens: Maybe make a spoiler free option for the beta site. Like a (user)option that hides / delays news about competition results. Just a thought.
OffLine Lindsay Falls
  2019-05-20 04:24:53    
Kazbekova is Ukrainian. Or do you think Ukraine is part of Russia like Putin does?
OffLine Jeff A
  2019-05-20 06:43:32    
Is climbing the only sport that spends more time talking about the guy who made second place, or is it just www.8a.nu ? One day Adam will pass the torch and I expect this website will shutdown the next day.
OffLine JLH
  2019-05-20 13:56:56    
Even the winner himself mostly talked about Adam ;)
OffLine bernd oman
  2019-05-20 14:41:18    
strange guys around - if u dont like this website why coming back here?
just get your news elsewhere
OffLine JLH
  2019-05-20 15:11:18    
3 things I'll remember:
-- Adam's failure on M4, very painful
-- Janja's semi(!)final, never seen anything similar
-- Mia, just incredible, so much mental and physical power in that tiny girl.
OffLine hanez
  2019-05-20 16:57:39    
"-- Janja's semi(!)final, never seen anything similar ".

so true. couldn't believe it.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2019-05-20 17:17:20    
This amazing performance shows that two zones would is needed.
OnLine Martin G
  2019-05-20 19:33:29    
the semifinal did not show the need of a second zone. it just showed how much stronger janja is. the boulders are most of the time set too easy for her, that she could show her full potential and also too easy for a clear separation of the podium (by tops, not only by attempts).

the boulders in a world cup should be set to challenge the best and not only to see many tops. like the WC in moscow with the top three topping all 4 boulders in 4 respectively 6 attempts.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2019-05-20 19:55:43    
If you like such hard setting it most be obvious that one more zone would make it more fun for the other 19 as well as all spectators.
OffLine JLH
  2019-05-21 15:55:37    
This one/two zones discussion is going over and over again, without giving any new arguments, why two is better / more fair than one...

Talking about fairness, what I really found interesting on this comp is the women semifinal round where we have two groups of three climbers all having two zones, one being boulder one in all cases:
  1. Krampl, Chanourdie and Gibert (places #4/5/5 in semi, progressed into finals): they all reached the zone in B2 in 1 or 2 attempts.
  2. Lukan, Moroni and Rakovec (places #7/8/9 in semi, did not progress into finals): they all reached the zone in B4, but needed 4 or 5 attempts.

So it's quite clear, contrary to B2, B4 was 'low percentage' boulder (involves side jump to bad volume, which required several attempts to adjust, Janja being the only exception). Also Katja Kadić (the other finalist, #3 in semi) needed 5 attempts for B4 and only one for B2.
My point is, number of zones might be quite an unfair criteria to separate the field of climbers of approx the same ability.

@Jens (and others who like to see two zones): as it is, there in fact are two zones already in IFSC rules, the first one being the starting position. Taking one is difficult or tricky on many occasions, even for the best - Janja needed 3(!) tries in semi's B4. So, (not what I suggest) maybe it could be used as a tie-breaker (before attempts)...
OffLine Robert Kasper
  2019-05-21 20:03:10    
Jens decided that its better. So its better. The end
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2019-05-21 21:06:31    
The Head route setter in Munich as well as in Vail do think that three zones is best!

@ JLH: Why do you think, "number of zones might be quite an unfair criteria to separate the field of climbers of approx the same ability."
OffLine JLH
  2019-05-22 08:53:50    
lapsus, should be "number of attempts".