GO TO GLOBAL SITE   se es us fr za it
de ca au no
at br ru ch
gb pl nl sk
Home | News | Videos | Articles | Gallery | Crags | Gyms | Search - Tick List | Forum | Ranking | Blogs | Contact | New Member
Forum: GLOBAL / News / Unendliche Geschichte 1+2+3 9a (8C) Matt Fultz Login in to contribute
Unendliche Geschichte 1+2+3 9a (8C) Matt Fultz
OffLine 8a.nu
  2019-05-23 00:00:00    
Matt Fultz has done the third ascent of Peter Würth's Unendliche Geschichte 1+2+3 in Magic Wood, video. First you climb the boulder roof and then you clip in finishing with four bolts in order to climb and stand at the top of the gigantic bloc. "8C? Or 9a? Either way, might be Earth’s best rock climb."

In the Combined ranking game, Matt is #5 and actually with just one 8c+ route he will be #2. (c) Nevin Rajen
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine Joakim Thommesen
  2019-05-23 16:37:14    
Lol. A heinously chipped boulder is part of what's proposed to be the earth's  best rock climb.
OffLine Robert Kasper
  2019-05-23 20:40:54    
Must be an american habit. Its only the second Time this week "the worlds Best" was announced
OffLine Henning Wang
  2019-05-23 21:04:13    
Hahaha, have to agree with Joakim on this one! Nothing against Matt, but the dude clearly hasn´t been on many quality rock climbs to make such a statement. Might aswell call a gym boulder the best climb in the world then..
Also a bit curious as to the logic of calling it 8C or 9a, as those two don´t really match. 9a as a pure boulder is normaly translated to around 8B/+ (Dave Grahams - The Fly for example).
The neverending story 1+2 is considered low end 8B+ (8A/+ to chipped 7C+/8A). The 3 is supposed to add a 7B top after the good jug rest where you normally jump down from the 8B+, hardly enough to make it 8C?

@Jens I am a bit curious as to how this combined ranking ethics go as Matt here has logged the 1+2 as a soft 8B+ boulder (Neverending Story), and at the same time logged (Unendliche Geschichte) 1+2+3 as a 9a route, both on the same day so presumably on the same attempt. Will he be first in your ranking if he then does a 8B/8c+ boulder/route next and takes the points for both?
OffLine Christopher Hacon
  2019-05-23 23:57:34    
I think he did the boulder problem on the 19-th and the route on the 22nd (?) so different days / tries.
But it is a good question...should different problems/routes with significant overlap be counted? I think in campusing comps you would get credit for every easier combination (eg if you do 1-4-7 you get credit for 1-4-6 etc) so with this logic......On the other hand, I am not sure how many people really care!
OffLine Bambam
  2019-05-24 00:09:16    
I don't care...
OffLine Jason Crank
  2019-05-24 18:09:02    
Lets say you do both the stand start and sit start to a boulder. Do you count both?

In my personal offline logbook, sure I do. Hell I ticked 100 Proof Roof at Hueco off my list even though I only ever climbed through it from the further Mexican Chicken start - its my personal list and I didn't want to double back to check it off on a later trip when I could be doing other classics

With respect to a scorecard: If someone climbs a V7 and then the extended V12 low-start, do you count both (Chattanoogan and Midway)? What about V13 and V14 (Wovenhand and Ill Thrill)? What if they did them 2 days apart? 2 weeks? 2 months?

All of this only matters if people are trying to keep score.....
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2019-05-24 18:35:11    
It is a ranking GAME and you can do whatever you want. Personally I would mark the stand start as a "log-book, no score."
OffLine buoha
  2019-05-28 13:12:01    
@joakim; can you please stop this term "heinously chipped" for boulders in magic wood? thanks! just don't spread "fake facts" you gathered from second hand knowledge! (check below for some first-hand-knowledge!)

about "unendliche geschichte"; the hold in debate is a tiny intermediate hold (on the big move off part 2) that 99 out off 100 people don't use anyway. and its far from clear if it is chipped at all. actually a stone carver (its his daily job to "chipp") once told me it does not look at all as iff somebody chipped that one!!!)

and yess, this granite-feature-line with immaculate river polished rock is pretty unique and simply mind-blowing when you see it for the first time in real life - it can easily be considered as one off the best boulders/ rock climbs in the world (the setting, the rock, the climbing...)!!! but talking about beauty - its very subjective... as grades ;)


(about the so called "chipping" in magic wood; there was a time when this topic was "hot" and every boulder seemed "chipped". in fact they ARE NOT. there are a few holds that did "grow" with (aggressive) brushing (start-hold off "dynos", the crimp at the ramp of "riverbed".. and so on.. , then sometimes people took a loose hold off or brushed some moss off and discovered/create new holds, footholds (as in "blindfish", "cote du seshuan", the big heel/toe-cam in "riverbed"... ) - and even problems like "jack the chipper" ARE NOT CHIPPED (that name is an inside joke - i did the FA!!!) - all that happens but thats not "chipping" like "hammering" new holds, the rock is not everywhere super solid, so it happens... but in "never-ending-story" there is simply no chipping - and lots off holds in that wood have lost their texture and are way harder to grab because so many people don't brush the holds AFTER climbing)
OffLine Joakim Thommesen
  2019-05-28 15:28:36    
@buoha I don't rely on second hand knowledge - I have tried the boulder and seen/felt the holds in question for myself. It's quite obvious that the incut edges on the big perfectly flat and beautifully water polished plate on the right on move 1 (intermediate) and 2 (videos youtube/Vimeo) are chipped. It looks really bad, and it renders the boulder completely uninteresting and vandalized. Very sad.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2019-05-28 17:22:50    
I have received two emails saying that what might look "quite obvious" a chipped hold is not. It has more or less looked like that since Magic Woods was discovered. Some holds have been polished or possibly improved by extensive brushing by several guys.
OffLine Joakim Thommesen
  2019-05-28 17:54:17    
@buoha I don't rely on second hand knowledge - I have tried the boulder and seen/felt the holds in question for myself. It's quite obvious that the incut edges on the big perfectly flat and beautifully water polished plate on the right on move 1 (intermediate) and 2 (videos youtube/Vimeo) are chipped. It looks really bad, and it renders the boulder completely uninteresting and vandalized. Very sad.
OffLine buoha
  2019-06-06 10:09:47    
@joakim; it does not get more true when you double-post ;) you seem to be quite impressed by your own "expertise" - do you have anything else to back up your claim beside your own opinion? i don't think so!

-well i contacted steini and bernd (zangerl) who had the very "first contact" with these boulders back in time. both off them confirmed the holds looked the same and are NOT manipulated (there is some arguing about the little intermediate that nearly nobody is using, but when you look close there is the same kind of texture all over the rock (its not completely polished!).
-i talked to a REAL expert at the boulder - back in 2006 or so - a real stonemason and he confirmed the holds would look totally different iff chipped.

now what do you do with these information/expertise? don't worry. its well known people don't change their "opinion" even if all the facts point in another direction. just don't walk around and post your opinion as a fact. because IT IS NOT!!! have a good one
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2019-06-06 12:56:31    
Thanks Martin! Good to hear as the thread started with an insult from Joakim which I guess was not so nice to read from Fultz.