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Forum: GLOBAL / News / Tom Randall & Hannes Puman on a 8b (+) crack in Spain Login in to contribute
Tom Randall & Hannes Puman on a 8b (+) crack in Spain
OffLine 8a.nu
  2019-03-13 00:00:00    
OffLine Henning Wang
  2019-03-12 11:05:28    
Looks great, but why is all the gear preplaced? Is it not possible to place on lead?..
OnLine Jo Scha
  2019-03-12 14:00:51    
Looks like Tom did place the gear on lead... The competition-kid did not!
OffLine Joakim Thommesen
  2019-03-12 19:06:28    
Pre-placed gear - lol.
OffLine Daniel Fagerlund
  2019-03-13 10:02:21    
In an interview with Bergsport he says that he hadn't placed gear before and that he felt that is was safer for him to do it with pre-placed gear. He says that he didn't expect to reach the chains.

https://bergsport.se/2018/02/17/hannes-puman-sander-kilsakrad-8b-8b/

"Competition-kid"? Why be this condescending?

Link to an article with Tom to shed some light on the questions.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/02/first_trad_ascent_of_spains_hardest_crack_by_tom_randall-71479
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2019-03-13 10:16:37    
Hannes and the video say that it was done with pre-placed gear.This means it would have been wrong to say in the headline that the did an 8b+ trad.

Now the headline says. "Tom Randall & Hannes Puman on a 8b+ crack in Spain".
OffLine Henning Wang
  2019-03-13 11:40:14    
Thx Daniel! Very informative interviews.

I must ask tho Jens, why downgrade the boulder in Font and not this in the title? Ukclimbing clearly says: "In terms of grading, Tom thinks placing the gear on lead would equate to something like soft 8b when compared to a lot of other cracks."
Seeing as it looks like placing the gear actually adds something here it sounds to me like more an 8a+ sportsroute done with preplaced gear..
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2019-03-13 11:58:06    
The video was published by our spanish editor. It seems more correct to call it 8b (+).
OffLine Henning Wang
  2019-03-13 20:19:12    
Fair enough