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Tierra Negra 9a (+) by Gonzalo Larrocha
OffLine 8a.nu
  2019-06-13 00:00:00    
Gonzalo Larrocha, who did La Rambla 9a+ in March, has done Chris Tierra Negra 9a (+) in Margalef. In total, the 34 year old who did his first 9a being 30, has done 12 routes 9a and harder.

Interesting to see from his scorecard is that he started climbing being 13 years old. Being 22 he did his first 8a and then he has had a continues progress for 12 straight years almost. The successful strategy seems to be to do several of each grade building a solid foundation of his grade pyramid before starting projecting a new grade. In total, the Spaniard has done more than 1 100 routes 8a and harder.
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine Jean-Baptiste Jourjon
  2019-06-13 11:04:22    
There is no best strategy applicable to everyone. To my opinion if you can't spend full days outside it's more efficient to optimize indoor climb, with also hangs, campusing and so on, and to focus on hard projects outside + some extra easier stuff to keep good outdoor climbing abilities. But there is no need to have such an amount of climbs far from your max, this kind of pyramid is not valid for most of climbers working full time with family !
OffLine Quentin Viaud
  2019-06-13 13:06:04    
Agreed, and can relate to. I now climb several 8th degree routes each season (spring and autumn), which was more or less my goal in sportclimbing. I dont have done crazy amounts of 7th degree route though !
First, because as Jean-Baptiste said, working full time with a family means few days outdoor (probably 30/40 in my case, per year). So training and getting fit to be able to achieve harder grades is more efficient.
But also, if you dont live in a region where there are hundreds of routes closely available, you will never be able to build such a pyramid anyway ! Which is also the case where i live : so i climb the routes available and suiting my schedule, which means that i've done several 8a's and 8a+, but i've done just two 7c+ (because there are only two within my range of climbing).
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2019-06-13 13:27:42    
Of course there is no best strategy applicable for all.

It is however interesting that most of the best that continues to deliver seems to focus on doing many hard routes instead of just one. On the other hand, some that mainly focused on quick grade progress seems to not continue having climbing as their lifestyle.
OffLine Quentin Viaud
  2019-06-13 15:05:06    
So, the best climbers are the one that climb the most routes/boulders. That seems understandable ;)
OnLine Charlie Lecocq
  2019-06-13 17:47:14    
Funny post, had the same reaction that Quentin : the best climbers are the one that climb the most !! Shocking news :)

He must have quite a lot of free time because 1100 8a and harder in 12 years means 91/years so 2 every week !!

In my all life, i won't climb 1100 routes whatever the grade so yes, his pyramid is perfect but for working people it's impossible to do the same.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2019-06-13 18:48:32    
The whole Idea with the scorecard is to promote the guys climbing many routes also onsight instead of just projecting one route for a long time.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2019-06-13 18:50:10    
The whole Idea with the scorecard is to promote the guys climbing many routes also onsight instead of just projecting one route for a long time.
OnLine Maya Ayupova
  2019-06-14 00:03:47    
Gonzalo works 5 days per week.
OffLine Quentin Viaud
  2019-06-14 12:44:14    
Ok, we might have over assume that he wasn't working. Still, being able to tick 2 routes 8a or harder per week during 12 years means that the guy dedicates most if not all his free time to climbing, which is not so common.