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Forum: GLOBAL / News / Three 9a's by Adam Ondra in a day in Frankenjura Login in to contribute
Three 9a's by Adam Ondra in a day in Frankenjura
OffLine 8a.nu
  2013-10-29 00:00:00    
Adam Ondra had an amazing day yesterday in Frankenjura where he did three 9a's;
The Elder Statesman, "Close to flashing, fired it off 20mins later. Thanks for beta Alex! 1st 9a of the day." (Markus Bock considers this the hardest 9a out of Frankenjura's 13.)
The House of Chock, "Tough bouldering on tiny holds... 2nd 9a of the day, the hardest of the three.
Sever the Wicked Hand, "Tried two days before in severe humidity, now did it 1st go while clipping the draws in. 3rd 9a of the day, even though this one must be pretty soft."

In total, Adam has done 57 routes 9a's and harder which is 2.5 times as many as the runner up on this list, Chris Sharma, has done. On Friday, Adam will make a very interesting start at the Valence World Cup, the first WC for him for over two years.
OnLine pbla4024
  2013-10-29 08:11:04    
I believe that phrase "... has done 57 routes 9a's and harder ..." is not entirely correct.
OffLine Sune Hermit
  2013-10-29 08:56:06    
A mindblowing performance!
OffLine Franz the Stampede
  2013-10-29 09:29:40    
LOL, back to 2009! "Ok, I have climbed all I can in Frankenjura and I have a World Cup in 3 days" :D
OffLine Sascha Gierlings
  2013-10-29 11:07:00    
@Franz: I remembered that as well. The routes he did, however, were from 2011 and 2012. @Jens: The routes name is "The House of Shock" by the way and Adam did 57 9a's - including harder routes, that are a couple more. Is three 9a's in a day a worldrecord, then? I think, I read something like that when Primin Bertle did two in a day. Cheers, Sascha
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2013-10-29 11:13:46    
Thanks...the news have been updated. Just send me an email if you want an upgraded account so you can change errors directly. jens@8a.nu
OffLine John Meget
  2013-10-29 12:26:06    
Didn't Sharma climb a 9b and a 9a+ in one day?
OnLine Marco Troussier
  2013-10-29 18:07:51    
it deserv e a visit on the "Bombé bleu" from Buoux after Valence World cup....
OffLine Franz the Stampede
  2013-10-29 22:12:18    
I doubt Adam ever meant otherwise, but he explains that one of the route he worked on one of the previous days. http://www.entre-prises.com/news/2013/10/How_to_prepare_for_a_World_Cup_Event More importantly, he says that he had one day of tries on Eternit an unrepeated FA by Italian slabmaster Manolo!
OffLine Erik Lj
  2013-10-30 00:39:24    
Wow, that's great news. I always wanted to see Adam against Eternit, such a beautiful and heinous slab at the same time... Slab and tiny holds aren't something Adam is not used to, so we can imagine why Adam is calling it HARD...Bravo Manolo!
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2013-10-30 07:43:11    
Adam is almost unique when it comes to giving credit to others after having failed on a route and sometimes he also suggest an upgrade. Adam is a true role model also in this respect Bravo :)
OnLine Joakim Thommesen
  2013-10-30 12:06:30    
@ Erik What are you talking about?? Manolo? Eternit? This post is about 3 9a's in a day in Franken. FYI.
OffLine Erik Lj
  2013-10-30 13:51:24    
I was answering to the link the Franz posted which, by the way, gives further information regarding the three 9a's that Adam climbed in a day... I guess you didn't read it, and btw, is there any rule that states that I can't reply on what the last person has written on the forum, regardless of how conected to the original post is? At last, I reaffirm my thought that I'm more amused by Adam trying Eternit than, for example, you pointing out to me what the post is about...
OffLine User Deactivated
  2013-10-30 14:00:33    
@Erik: I agree with your opinion. Your post and the one of Franz are indeed not perfect "On Topic", but firmly related to the topic, so it's seems to me to be absolutely o.k.
OffLine Sune Hermit
  2013-10-30 14:05:08    
I agree with Paco who agrees with Erik.
OffLine Svet
  2013-10-30 15:14:44    
all posts are not correct. i don't agree with  paco sune erik manolo joakim please, explain what u all mean, and stop trolling, it is not accepted, i disagree
OffLine Svet
  2013-10-30 15:16:42    
but: i agree with Adam and Jens! but not with  Franz the Stampede  anyway
OffLine Franz the Stampede
  2013-10-30 15:40:10    
The headline might have led you to believe he did three 9as from scratch on the same day. As Adam is the first to explain, one of them was worked on a different day too. Still a fantastic achievement nonetheless, I never said the opposite. Also, Svet, tune down the approach as you yourself have a fantastic history of poorly written, aggressive and nonsensical posts around here, these last two being the case. "Stop trolling"... like you can talk! With regard to Eternit, since we were in "let's celebrate (deservedly) Adam's skills and achievements" mode, his trying of the route is a great thing and for the following reason. There's many a countries with a strong mountaineering history (Italy for sure, in some ways England and France) in which there are many people who are very dismissive of recent achievements in sport climbing. They claim, among other things, that all those climbing 9a or harder long, overhanging routes are just climbing fitness monsters and don't have any technique, can't use their feet, they are not "climbing artists" or some other crap. As if the fastest repeat of Speed (8c+) to date and FFAs of Tough Enough and WoGü (both mostly vertical 8c MP) weren't enough to prove these people wrong, the fact that Adam is once again up for a challenge on unfamiliar terrain is hopefully something that will help break some people's prejudice.
OffLine Svet
  2013-10-30 15:48:07    
Franz the Stampede , your average climb is 5c or 6a... you still want to prove me something?? play in your own league. i said and keep saying in competitions of sport rockclimbing 3 weight categories must be introduced if IFSC wants this sport growth. if you disagree with me - climb a 8a   and then talk   hehe )
OffLine Franz the Stampede
  2013-10-30 15:57:22    
That's not how it works. You could climb 9b+ and your posts and reasoning could still be flawed. Reasoning like you do, 90% of sports journalists should resign their jobs because they've never been professionals at the sport they commentate. So yeah, I can prove that your writing on here is nonsensical and poor, the only thing I wanted to prove. I'm sorry you weigh over 80 kgs and you are about 177cm, that clearly puts a limitation to your climbing ability, weight optimisation is one of the most important things for a climber at a very high-level, I don't need to climb 8a to tell you that. It could be that Angy Eiter won all that she did because of how tiny and light she was. Well, TOUGH LUCK for the beefcakes like you. Does basketball or volleyball have different height categories? And, by the way, guess who went clearly offtopic first here?
OffLine Majkel
  2013-10-30 16:02:05    
Svet You either have a problem with yourself or with logical thinking. I have a Your kind of a 'bright idea', I'll ask my cousin who climbs 8c+ to kindly disrespect Your poor climbing ability in this topic. Would You be kind enough to consider?
OffLine Svet
  2013-10-30 16:14:28    
im 177 and 85,.    Franz the Stampede , you don't follow all my posts. i have hundreds of posts over last 6-7 years, and all of em are very genuine, innovative, and 50% of em indisputable, as my name is Svet and it means "The Light", ie i do shed light on dark and stupid human mistakes. i can send you in zip all my statements, and ideas; after you pass exam on knowing my works, i will admit that after i recieve vid of your 7b-7c redpoint, u can start sayin how it woks    haha  say ur bro hello; btw   how much he weights, eh ??)
OffLine Franz the Stampede
  2013-10-30 16:19:52    
ATTENTION EVERYBODY, if you have a BMI lower than Svet's you are a climbing cheat. ¬¬ Ok, back on topic please...
OffLine Svet
  2013-10-30 16:25:31    
wow... 23 posts ) we did good job, Franz ) the AO's 3 9as in a day deserve more attention, right ? ))) peace all blocs
OffLine Franz the Stampede
  2013-10-30 16:32:58    
But more importantly, Manolo, please stop trolling this thread, Svet says it is not accepted, and he disagrees.
OffLine Eric MacNeil
  2013-10-30 21:25:13    
Pathetic bickering.
OffLine Samuel Egli
  2013-10-30 23:10:39    
i very strongly disagree
OffLine Terje Strøm
  2013-10-31 12:01:34    
Not practically possible with weight categories in climbing. It is easy in fighting sports where you only have to weigh people and adjust nothing. In bouldering tall people can compete at same level as short people, but it depends on the routes. What will most likely happen if climbing gets into the olympics is a minimum bmi of 19, like ski jumping. This will give an even bigger advantage for the small people if the routes are not made more bouldery. The ting with climbing is that you can always make routes fit different people as we have seen with Ramon several times. Outdoor climbing is, in most cases, more bouldery and also more reachy, for hard routes, than indoor climbing. Adam Ondra is a bit tall for the style they usually set in comps. Being by far the best outdoor climber in the world will not automatically make him win many comps.