GO TO GLOBAL SITE   se es us fr za it
de ca au no
at br ru ch
gb pl nl sk
Home | News | Videos | Articles | Gallery | Crags | Gyms | Search - Tick List | Forum | Ranking | Blogs | Contact | New Member
Forum: GLOBAL / News / The Wheel of Life 9a (8C) by Alex Barrows Login in to contribute
The Wheel of Life 9a (8C) by Alex Barrows
OffLine 8a.nu
  2016-06-02 00:00:00    
Alex Barrows has done The Wheel of Life in Grampians, which is a 70 moves horizontal endurance testpiece that Dai Koyamada put up as an 8C+ in 2004. Alex, who is on a 7.5 months road trip after getting his PHD, chose to give it a route grade of 9a, which seems to be the consensus grade to 8C nowadays.
OffLine Kenneth Rasmussen
  2016-06-03 15:17:16    
It is actually pretty funny to observe, that a 9a route climbed as a boulder is around 8C. A 8B boulder climbed as a route (i.e. Hubble) might be around 8c+ (9a). In other words, boulderes will find long problems (routes) harder. Route climbers will find bouldery routes harder. Hugely generalizing and just thinking out loud.
OffLine Kenneth Rasmussen
  2016-06-03 15:17:30    
And congrats to Alex
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2016-06-03 15:46:49    
I must say it sounds very strange that Hubble is only 8B as a boulder grade. If that would have been true, i would think we would have seen many repeats.
OffLine itinerant
  2016-06-03 16:09:13    
Perfectly not strange at all. "Only" 8B was state of the art back when Hubble was first climbed.
OffLine Kenneth Rasmussen
  2016-06-03 16:58:55    
Sure... I have no idea about the boulder grade, this was only what Alex said. http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/alexander-megos-climbs-hubble-the-raven-tor-interview.html
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2016-06-03 17:01:40    
Kind of strange that only five guys have done that 8B graded Hubble as there are hundreds of guys bouldering 8B every year.
OffLine itinerant
  2016-06-03 17:22:13    
Much stranger things have happened, Jens. Kind of.
OffLine Fatty Boom Batty
  2016-06-03 17:30:26    
I don's think that "there are hundreds of guys bouldering 8B every year" on british limestone.   Number of repeats doesnt necessarily mean a problem is hard, easy or shit quality. Every grade has a 'width' to it that encompasses a lot of varied difficulty, length, angle and style. Repeatability has alot more to do with accessability, environment and 'cool' factor than whether a problem is 'soft' or 'hard.'Lets face it, there are many other destinations that feature loads of 8B's to climb than Sheffield, even if those boulders have less historical weight.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2016-06-03 17:45:58    
Accessability and Cool factor are at Max for Hubble which should create loads of repeat if it was just 8B :)
OffLine itinerant
  2016-06-03 17:54:47    
"just" 8B - how hard can that be? Piece of cake!
OffLine Fatty Boom Batty
  2016-06-03 18:39:18    
"Accessability and Cool factor are at Max for Hubble which should create loads of repeat if it was just 8B :)" so you have tried it?
OffLine Jolli
  2016-06-03 19:24:14    
Hubble is only an 8B as a boulder? Fine. But...it is a FOUR MOVE 8B. Prettttty concentrated difficulty then really. And the moves are very specific as underclings can be. Those things make Hubble quite different from many other only 8Bees...
OffLine Jolli
  2016-06-03 19:24:16    
Hubble is only an 8B as a boulder? Fine. But...it is a FOUR MOVE 8B. Prettttty concentrated difficulty then really. And the moves are very specific as underclings can be. Those things make Hubble quite different from many other only 8Bees...
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2016-06-03 19:48:58    
The only reason we have the climbing difficulty grading is to compare difficulty, i.e. a four move under cling 8B boulder should be more or less as difficult as an 8B slab or steep boulder no matter the number of moves.
OffLine Peter Schulz
  2016-06-03 21:38:00    
"more or less" thats the point of this whole grade discussion.
In my opinion, the grade adjustment is to fine.

Congrats to Alex.
OffLine Tuf La
  2016-06-03 22:01:45    
Comparing bouldering grades with route grades is a bit of a tricky matter, and it raises the complexity of grades in climbing and its lack of definition.  The comparison with athletics is interesting. In the running disciplines, athletes specialize in their training, and become able to run fast on one specific distance (sometimes two). Thus, Usain Bolt has run 100m in 9.58s, and Dennis Kimetto has run a marathon in 2h03min. In between these two, Michael Johnson has the 400m world record in 43.18s., Icham El Gerrouj the 1500m. world record in 3min26, etc. If each of these distances would be attributed a grading system based on the running time, Usain Bolt running 8C+ in the 100m, would be, I guess, absolutely unable to run 8c in the marathon. He is though able to run 8C+ on the 200m and the 400m, and might be able to run 8C (or should I say 9a?) on the 800m and maybe even the 1500m.  There are only two categories in rock-climbing (+1, trad). Boulders are in a large majority, and for obvious reasons, shorter than routes. They require then often less endurance, and more maximum power. It is however possible to define rock-climbs on blocks with a long succession of moves. The Wheel of Life is an example. These specific climbs require physical abilities that route-climbers may be more likely to have developed than boulderers. It could seem then logical to give them a route grade... But if the separation between the two disciplines should be based on the number of moves, where do we put the limit? And is it enough to define only two categories?  The reason why rock-climbing is only separated in two main categories is in fact found in the genesis of bouldering, when John Gill talks about bouldering as being "the gymnastic form of climbing, free of risk and focused on the movement" (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odC-ShQLQGw). The separation between the disciplines is then not made on the length of the rock-climb, but on necessity, or not, to use a rope. It is because we climbers have turned into grade-hunters that we want to pathologically make sense of this grading system by grading long boulders with route grades, and relating short route to boulder grade (e.g. Hubble).  Let’s accept that it is absolutely natural that a 8a rope-climber specialist has better chances to climb a 40-move 7C boulder than a 7B+ boulderer who rarely climbs more than 15 moves in a row, and let’s stop trying to make sense of grades - they are completely blurred/limiting/undefined anyway - and consider them for what they are: indications.
OffLine Alex Barrows
  2016-06-04 03:01:07    
1. I bet Hubble is hard for 8B 2. Like Jolli said, it's a four move 8B so people like me are too weak for it 3. By the power of maths, soft 9a is probably soft 8B+ boulder - if I were to give a boulder grade for The Wheel I would give soft 8B+ probably, definitely not 8C.... All cleared up nicely :)
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2016-06-04 09:10:53    
Thanks and great effort Alex. Very interesting with just 8B+ for the Wheel as it was 8C+ originally and then at least three guys have said 8C. I guess you are a true endurance master ;)
OffLine Majkel
  2016-06-04 11:19:44    
Thanks Alex for sharing Your point of view. Great to hear that. Now watch Jens put words in your mouth or find points in your utterance that can be "worked with" for additional clicks.I find his: "I guess you are a true endurance master ;)" kinda insulting. It's interesting that The Ace has a lot more repeats than Hubble and as far as I know it has only 3 moves(cross from the starting jug to the first sloping crimp, reaching the other crimp and the move to the lip,which some do double clutch). So it seems that classic campus style moves have a bigger repeatability than a beasty undercling fiesta ;)
OffLine David Mason
  2016-06-04 17:32:10    
Is it not also true megos got spanked on the joker (stand start to the ace) we cant be good at everything. Well done alex
OffLine David Mason
  2016-06-04 17:32:15    
Is it not also true megos got spanked on the joker (stand start to the ace) we cant be good at everything. Well done alex
OffLine Alex Barrows
  2016-06-06 05:50:27    
I'm no enduro master, just good at gaffa taping kneepads to my legs :)
OnLine pbla4024
  2016-06-06 11:46:33    
How many kneebars? Around 50? :)