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Forum: GLOBAL / News / The Master Key 8B by Oriane Bertone (13) Login in to contribute
The Master Key 8B by Oriane Bertone (13)
OffLine 8a.nu
  2019-01-11 00:00:00    
Oriane Bertone has done another three hard boulders in Rocklands; Sassy squash 8A, The arch 8A+and The Master Key in Rocklands. "Fantastic hidden boulder ! One hard move. I found my beta at the third session and solve this problem. Very happy for this ascent!

In total, the 13 year old has now done 39 boulders 8A to 8B+, out of which 19 the last 12 months and she is #2 in the 8a ranking game. One more 8B, and she takes over the crown from Isabelle Faus.
OffLine JLH
  2019-01-11 17:56:00    
"One more 8B, and she takes over the crown from Isabelle Faus"

Very definitive words, if your 'royal highness' is measured by:
-- undefined meaning of words (onsight...)
-- equal valuation of 'normal' (up) boulders and traverses (e.g. Trafic 8B trav.)
-- your own judgement (not consensus grade) how many points you deserve for your ascents
-- ...
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2019-01-11 18:29:17    
Please :) It is a game which is pointed out in every news. Oriane down graded her onsight and as a matter of a fact if she had recorded it as a flash with the original grade, she would have gotten more points :) In the same way as Isabelle, Oriane uses personal grades.

Once again, it is a GAME and you can just use the points as an indication as grades differs around the globe and in between climbers. Today chatting with Oriane about the teenager hunting her she just laughed :)

Instead you should salute the 13 year old who climbs fantastic :)
OffLine JLH
  2019-01-11 21:39:51    
OK, let say it's a game (and not a joke ;). The problem is the rules of this game are unclear, illogical and (too) subjective AND USING such rules for rankings(!).
My remarks were general (Trafic was just an example), I was not speculating who deserves more to be the 'queen' of 8a rankings. In fact, I'm against any type of rankings in outdoor climbing.
But anyway, you are wrong when saying Isabelle or Oriane or whoever uses personal grades for rankings. This logic was chosen by designers of 8a.nu. And I can't find any rationale an ascents is not 'worth' the same no. of pts for all climbers who sent the same problem...
And sorry, I don't believe public saluting for *sport achievements* three times per week makes any good for personal (or sport) development of any child...
OffLine Giuliano Cameroni
  2019-01-11 22:45:53    
She's 13 and she's crushing all the powerful boulders in rocklands, so impressive!
OffLine Chaz-O
  2019-01-12 07:55:19    
There is no crown! It's human vs rock, and nothing compares to the glory of conquering your own personal challenges!

That said, Oriane climbs with incredible style and makes these hard boulders look easy. No need to over-analyze these accomplishments, the best is yet to come for her :)
OffLine JLH
  2019-01-12 08:40:50    
"Year-round training in a single sport beginning at a relatively young age is increasingly common among youth. Contributing factors include perceptions of Eastern European sport programs, a parent’s desire to give his or her child an edge, labeling youth as talented at an early age, pursuit of scholarships and professional contracts, the sporting goods and services industry, and expertise research. The factors interact with the demands of sport systems. Limiting experiences to a single sport is not the best path to elite status. Risks of early specialization include social isolation, overdependence, burnout, and perhaps risk of overuse injury. Commitment to a single sport at an early age immerses a youngster in a complex world regulated by adults, which is a setting that facilitates manipulation -- social, dietary, chemical, and commercial. Youth sport must be kept in perspective. Participants, including talented young athletes, are children and adolescents with the needs of children and adolescents."
-- R.M. Malina (ref)
OffLine Jon Megent
  2019-01-12 15:43:45    
@JLH, I just read the paper by Malina that you referenced. Much less there than meets the eye IMO. He summarizes a lot of possible outcomes, without quantifying them. He makes statements that seem like truisms to me: "Few individuals who specialize in sport at young ages make it to elite levels and reap the social, economic, and other benefits associated with success. The overwhelming majority drop out along the way." Well, that's true of every activity/sport/art/intellectual pursuit on the planet. Very few people achieve elite status. That's part of the definition of elite. The vast majority drop out without reaching that level.

Most telling sentence in Malina's entire paper comes near the end: "Information on the effectiveness of early specialization and the long-term success of young athletes is limited". i.e. plenty of opinions but few hard facts. That pretty much undermines the ability to make solid conclusions about those topics then, doesn't it?

My own observation as a parent whose kids climbed competitively is that climbing is the best sport I've seen for children and young people to learn to socialize. It's one of the few sports where boys and girls regularly train together... where they encounter each other -- interact -- in very natural ways. I don't think it's an accident that Adam Ondra, best sport climber in history, is such a nice person. Climbing helps cultivate that quality. Not only in children, but adults as well.
OffLine JLH
  2019-01-12 19:26:37    
@Jon, you don't need to persuade me climbing is a great sport, it's may favourite, for many reasons... What's more, sport (physical activity, active play) in general is a great activity for physical, social, emotional, also intellectual development and healthy life of ALL children. Sport in general, not elite sport.
IMO, for children sport achievement should not be a criteria for 'success', other things should have priority how 'successful' children sporting activity is.
In competition climbing and most of the other sports, measures are taken, achievements are not the priority, most notably by limiting age for entering official (open) competitions.
Outdoor is different, there is no such age limit, we see a great amount (20+ h/week) of specialised training at very young age, which --especially in girls-- with low weight, small fingers etc. brings great(?) performances. There is no other sport where a 10 yr old child evens out a world record (8B) and set a new one (8C) at age of 15. Is early specialisation needed for elite sport achievements? May be and maybe not (Lynn Hill started climbing at age of 14), but I really don't care, I simply think it's not human an 8 yr old child is living a life of professional adult athlete... And I certainly think media should not contribute to that, they should spread other values.

And yes, Adam is a great guy, but I really respect him not because of his exceptional sport results, but because *in spite of* them he remains a nice person.
OnLine Robert Kasper
  2019-01-12 22:40:11    
So much Media presence for such young Kids. YouTube every Day, Instagram, 8a.nu. I cant really understand this

However climbing is not the only Sport where underages shatter records. Google 2008 chinese gymnasts. But of course climbing is unique
OffLine Clay Gordon
  2019-01-13 22:57:41    
@JLH Bruh, that girl is out there putting in work and crushing a ton of boulders. She's obviously a talented climber, give her some damn respect.
OffLine JLH
  2019-01-14 07:36:50    
Hi, Clay. My respect for other people is not measured on a Font grading scale. Certainly not for children.