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Forum: GLOBAL / News / The Japanese boulder domination increases Login in to contribute
The Japanese boulder domination increases
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-04-23 00:00:00    
From the World Cup rankings we can see the total Japanese male domination, six in Top-13 and 8 in Top-17. Among the female, two in the Top-3. In regards the world ranking, based on the last 12 months, 9 male Japaneses among Top-15. It must be very few sports that have seen such an extreme domination from one country.

Runner-up, is the very small country Slovenia with just 2 million inhabitants, with two in Top-7 among both male and female.

Based on that the next two World Cups are in China followed by one in Tokyo, most likely, we will see an even stronger Japanese domination in the ranking lists coming up. Last year, Japan participated with 41 athletes in Tokyo but this year they will be allowed to compete with 47.
OffLine Ron Berends
  2018-04-24 14:33:27    
"It must be very few sports that have seen such an extreme domination from one country."



This comment is just screaming for examples :) Please check the Olympic medals for the Netherlands in speed skating, especially last two editions.



Or even more extreme: korfball!  (who hasn't heared of that sport outside the Netherlands?). Since the first World Championship in 1978, the Netherlands has only lost once...



But undeniably, the Japanese performance in bouldering is impressive!
OnLine Opi Brey
  2018-04-24 15:55:47    
noobody talks how poor cuality have bigger countries like EEUU.
OffLine Bojan
  2018-04-24 16:25:11    
For me, what's really impressive, is Slovenia, not Japan. Japan has 60 times larger population, 100 times higher GDP and probably 100 times more climbing gyms than Slovenia...
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-04-24 16:54:51    
There is a limitation of how many Japan can send. From what I have heard, Japan has at least 20 guys that could be Top-10 in a male WC.

Anyhow, is is amazing how Slovenia can continue to develop world class competitions climbers.
OnLine John Render
  2018-04-24 20:39:05    
No question Japan is doing fantastic. With Janja skipping the rest of the boulder season till Munich, Shauna recovering from injury, and a couple of young Japanese 15-year-old girls ready to step on the stage, Japan could be about to do even better.

But this is not entirely unprecedented. I remember not so many years ago, 5 of the 8 finalists in the World Championship female lead comp were Austrian. France has also dominated in the past. i.e. it seems like one-country dominance sometimes comes and goes in waves.

Slovenia amazes me. Sort of like Jamaica in the world sprinting scene, where a tiny nation produces world champion after world champion. Are any younger 'Janjas' waiting in the wings there?
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-04-24 20:46:05    
During at least the last ten years, no country has dominated one discipline like male Japaneses have done in Bouldering the last 12 months. In the current Top-15 world ranking, nine are Japaneses.

Sure we have seen five Austrians or another country Top-10 in a specific competition but not over a whole season like the Japaneses. I would not be surprised if there actually would be 8-9 male in Top-15 overall in Bouldering 2018. When it comes to Combined, my guess is 8 in Top-20, at least :)
OffLine Bojan
  2018-04-25 05:42:57    
>"Are any younger 'Janjas' waiting in the wings there?"

I guess I saw one yesterday in a local climbing gym :)
But already this season I bet Mia Krampl, semifinalist in Meiringen and Moscow, can 'replace' Janja in some finals.
OffLine Reino "Nicki" Horak
  2018-04-25 10:51:26    
Hi,
It has been domination in other sports and is. For example in the 80:s Sweden had 8 tennis players among top 10 in the world. That I think is a record.
Today Japan is dominating the boulder scene which only will lead to that other countries have to and will improve.
So it´s no problem. Just enjoy watching the japanese and applaud them. Sonn others will come.
Then don´t forget, its also about the rout setting. In Moscow for example there was two male problems which gave them really difficulties compared to the other climbers. I don´t wine or excuse but it is interesting.
So as finish, all credit to the japanese and the others have to improve. That´s the play of the game :-)
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-04-25 11:13:09    
Another possibility is that it will become as in 100 meters running, you almost need to be from Asian origin to be in the top. Anyhow, I am sure this Japanese domination will continue at least until 2020.
OffLine Reino "Nicki" Horak
  2018-04-25 15:29:02    
You can do a funny betting here on 8a. Without money involved of course.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-04-25 16:07:38    
My bet is that there will be at least eight Japaneses in the Top-20 Combined in both 2019 and 2020 and would not be surprised actually with ten in Top-20 in 2020. The dilemma is of course that they currently are only allowed to compete with seven guys in Lead and six guys in Speed. So in practice, it is the Japanese federation who will decide how many male there will be in the ranking :)
OffLine Jan V'
  2018-04-27 21:43:09    
@Rory Berends well you've actually just confirmed Jens's point. He says few examples, you!ve named exactly few examples, which is few. What is your point?

Edit: it's actually quite disturbing how people misread thing. Jens stated "It must be very few sports that have seen such an extreme domination from one country" yet others react as if he said "bouldering is only sport that have seen such an extreme domination from one country". I don't agree with Jens in everything, but this is clearly wrong.
OffLine Jan V'
  2018-04-27 21:44:32    
@Jens "There is a limitation of how many Japan can send. From what I have heard, Japan has at least 20 guys that could be Top-10 in a male WC."

How that comes? Not even those participating reach top ten in male WC
OffLine Jan V'
  2018-04-27 21:46:16    
@John Render that ws quite well explained by doping cases.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-04-27 23:09:07    
Until now, Japan has had eight guys having been Top-10 in at least one of the first two WCs. This year, they are allowed to participate with 12 guys but it this domination increases, there might be more male Japaneses the next year.

If there were now limitations per country, I am sure we would have seen an even bigger Japanese domination.
OnLine John Render
  2018-04-28 00:00:20    
Jan V, do you mean doping is the reason Jamaica does so well in sprints?
OffLine Jan V'
  2018-04-28 08:48:42    
@Jens "Japan has had eight guys having been Top-10 in at least one of the first two WCs" Exactly, thank you for proving my point. Since when is eight new twenty? ;)

So far Japan has three males in top ten overall. At the end of last year it was five. So far they are worse than last year, end of the story.
OffLine Jan V'
  2018-04-28 09:02:23    
@John Render yep what I've written was about Jamaica. Lots of their top sprinters were either punished for doping or had positive doping test, including Yohan Blake, Asafa Powell, Shelly-Ann Fraser, Veronica Campbell-Brown...and many, many more.
OffLine Jan V'
  2018-04-28 09:02:25    
@John Render yep what I've written was about Jamaica. Lots of their top sprinters were either punished for doping or had positive doping test, including Yohan Blake, Asafa Powell, Shelly-Ann Fraser, Veronica Campbell-Brown...and many, many more.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-04-28 09:39:22    
Japan are only allowed to participate with 12 male in WC outside Japan. In the Tokyo event I guess there will be like 25 Japaneses. I am sure you will see some new guys there very high up in the list.
OffLine Jan V'
  2018-04-28 11:38:07    
Jens again you have problem to answer simple quetion?
OnLine John Render
  2018-04-28 14:41:21    
@ Jan V, from what I read, doping is widespread throughout track and field (athletics). i.e. it wouldn't surprise me if some Jamaicans have done it, because nearly all world-class athletics competitors (allegedly) do it.

Suppose it's true. To say that is why Jamaica dominates sprints, you have to believe that small, somewhat impoverished nation knows more about medical enhancements than all other countries combined. I just wonder how/why they are able to do it so much better than every other country in the world, even those with vastly more wealth and medical technology.
OffLine Jan V'
  2018-04-29 20:11:08    
@John Render "tiny nation produces world champion after world champion" First and foremost, many of these champions are proven dopers. Take probably biggest names - Usain Bolt, Yohan Blake, Shelly-Ann Fraser, Veronica Campbell-Brown - three of them either had positive doping test or were punished for doping or both. There you have your answer. And I've named just biggest names, there are many many more Jamaican sprinters who had problems with doping. That says it all. Jamaica is no longer dominant sprinter force as it used to be some years, do not ignore this fact. And it's coincidentally since they've had those doping positives. Quite coincidence, right?

"from what I read, doping is widespread throughout track and field (athletics). i.e. it wouldn't surprise me if some Jamaicans have done it, because nearly all world-class athletics competitors (allegedly) do it." It's pretty strange you've had no idea about Jamaican sprinters doping, given you are acknowledged that "doping is widespread throughout track and field (athletics...nearly all world-class athletics competitors (allegedly) do it." Hard time to believe acknnowledged person has no idea about such huge scandal encompassing even the biggest names. Anyway, where do you read nearly all world-class athletes dope? Where do you read doping is widespread?

"you have to believe that small, somewhat impoverished nation knows more about medical enhancements than all other countries combined." One rich person is enough to pay for doping and it doesn't even have to be Jamaican citizen. Doping is not that expensive thing. Average Russian citizen is not very rich either and look how they are doing in doping field :)

"I just wonder how/why they are able to do it so much better than every other country in the world, even those with vastly more wealth and medical technology." Maybe they were not hence why lots of their sprinters were caught doping, right? :)