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Slovenia and Japan shared the podiums
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-04-22 00:00:00    
Excellent route setting also in the final in Moscow where it was thrilling to the very last try. Janja Garbret had to flash and so she did, winning on count back over Miho Nonaka. Also last starter in the final, Jongwon Chon had the chance to secure the victory but could not reach the top, and ended #4. As you can see below, Slovenia and Japan shared the podiums equally.

1. Janja Garnbret SLO 44:7/5 - Tomoa Narasaki JPN 44
2. Miho Nonaka JPN 44:7/5 - Jernej Kruder SLO 34:5
3. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 34 Gregor Vezonik SLO 34:6
Complete results

Noteworthy is also that Vezonik was #51 in Meiringen last week. Eddie Fowke from The Circuit Climbing and the IFSC official photographer, who has captured almost all World Cups the last five years, was very impressed of the whole competition and the final show.

"Very good comp. Too many dyno's in finals though. Super well run, the Russian's put on a great show and put a huge effort into everything going right."

In Speed, Yoshiyuki Ogata was best of the top ranked boulderers being #43 with 7.90. Among the female, Miho Nonaka was #44 with 10.51.
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine md
  2018-04-23 12:19:13    
Question: why don't they change the starting order after each boulder in the finals so that the current leader comes last?  Seems to me that this would allow for a better show because it's more likely that the competition remains undecided until the very last climber. Additionally, it would also level out the suspected disadvantages from reduced friction etc.
OffLine Thomas Maatz
  2018-04-23 12:56:41    
Possible answer: cause of the different time of rests in between the boulders... :)
OffLine John Render
  2018-04-23 14:49:48    
Why don't the men and women climb at the same time in finals, like they used to? More Olympics fallout? Seems like finals could take a lot longer this way.
OffLine r1ddl3
  2018-04-23 15:25:37    
In my opinion it's far from "excellent route setting" if the winner is decided by count back...
OffLine Rufus5.12
  2018-04-24 12:20:24    
@md Thats a really good suggestion but needs a little twist to address what Thomas stated. By changing the climbing order, rest time varies too much...however if they would interchange the women and men as well then all competitors would have longer rests between each boulder. Basically: Mens 1, Womens 1, Mens 2, Womens 2, etc... therefore all competitors receive at least 20+ minutes between boulders no matter the climbing order. Only problem is the competitors face a 'cool down' period, but i think it would be okay. Probably more interesting for spectators as well.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-04-24 12:28:10    
The problem is that it is so much down time in between every attempt. One solution is to have three climbers rotating on the first three boulders and then, based on that change the starting order before the last boulder. By doing so, we could have 8 or even 9 climbers in the final and then just 4 or 6 on the last problem.
OffLine John Render
  2018-04-24 15:25:50    
I agree with riddl3. The setting was not good. The setters failed in what they often say is their number one goal: to separate the climbers. Instead we had to turn to tie-breakers.

Two weeks in a row now, women's finals have been too easy. In Switzerland, three women topped all boulders; in Moscow, two women topped all boulders. That negates the whole purpose of the new scoring change. Zones don't matter in this case, and we go back to deciding the podium on attempts.
OffLine Rufus5.12
  2018-04-25 18:39:47    
Jens, i somewhat agree to your statement about too much rest time between each attempt...but check this out: most major sports are made for the spectators (i.e. Media timeouts). So if the competitors need to rest longer to provide economic stimulus (more exciting viewer programming) for an emerging sport, then so be it. The competitors will adjust. With more time to rest and the changing of climbing order, the athletes will face greater challenges mentally and physically. Additionally, this could also affect the way routes are set. In my mind, 30 minutes is not a long time to rest between redpoint attempts.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-04-25 19:22:27    
I do not understand what you mean by more time to rest and that the competitors will adjust. The rules have been almost identical the last ten years.

The only big change is that most of the time the female and male competitions are separated meaning less action and longer comps.
OffLine Rufus5.12
  2018-04-26 12:13:45    
Jens, I was referring to the idea of trading routes by gender (Mens1, Womens1, Mens2, etc...) It will create more resting time. The goal is to create a better spectator show, with a more equalized competition field. So, if the competitor order is changed on each boulder as stated above by md, and then the order of routes are changed (as i just stated in the first line) the resting times will increase overall. If this was to happen, the competitors will mentally/phycially adjust to the new format quickly...its not a big deal. Resulting in the new format providing a more entertaining program for spectators as well as a more level playing field with regards to friction, chalk-caking, mental pressure, etc for the competitors.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-04-26 12:18:04    
I like that idea as the athletes will do more tries increasing the action and it would be possible to change starting order before the last problem at least :)