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Forum: GLOBAL / News / Jain Kim and Jakob Schubert win semi in Kranj Login in to contribute
Jain Kim and Jakob Schubert win semi in Kranj
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-09-29 00:00:00    
Complete results
OffLine The Whistleblower 5
  2018-09-29 23:16:30    
Austria and Italy dominated the semifinals in Kranj getting three and two of their athletes in Top 4, respectively. At the same time, none of team Japan's 12 athletes made it to Top 4.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-09-29 23:23:49    
This was the best male Japanese results ever with three to the final and seven Top-15. If this strong positive trend for them continues, they will dominate the IFSC team ranking like in boulder already in 2020.
OffLine J. Smith
  2018-09-30 08:39:35    
Men's semifinals was clear "on rope boulder". Just check the results. Many top climbers finished at 7 or 8 moves. It was frustrating, disappointing and had nothing in common with endurance discipline as lead was. After few comps resembling lead, this was a pure shame.
OffLine Marco Troussier
  2018-09-30 09:44:09    
Of course not! Climbing could be like that, a crux then hard moves , an other crux and pumpy climb ahead. Climbers specially in competition (and hard routes in cliffs) are all boulderer in a certain way. Power is the key of everything (not to mention olympic combiné). Remember Alex M falling in the first dyno in Arco. On the contrary, all those falls were unexpected and added suspens....
OffLine Steve
  2018-09-30 15:54:54    
J.Smith, just because you repeat that statement after almost every lead competition, it does not make it more true. Climbing is more than just laddering up small holds with simple moves until the forearms give up. Almost all competitions this and last year had beautiful routes that resembled a wide range of complex moves requiring high performance of the whole body. Crux moves shutting down climbers are an integral part of climbing, but, yes, less desirable in competitions where the goal is to separate the climbers. Various strong climbers falling early is undesirable as well and might indeed be a route setting mistake, but there can be many different reasons for it. This time it went essentially down to footslip, respectively not seeing a toe hook around move 7/8. But nevertheless when you watch most athletes approaching their high point, you can see them starting to struggle move after move, becoming more sketchy, less precise etc. So in the end, lead performance does indeed come down to endurance and, as I said, this does not require a ladder of small holds with simple moves.
OffLine Marco Troussier
  2018-09-30 18:10:06    
For the french speaker:
C'est l'histoire d'un mouv qui a fait tomber/trembler certains des meilleurs.
Il en va ainsi, les compétitions se suivent mais ne se ressemblent pas toujours. Tel événement consacre tel grimpeur-euse alors que tel-autre, quelques jours plus tard sonne le glas des espérances. Hier à Kranj, un certain enchainement de deux déplacements de mains et d'autant de pieds, aura vu trembler certains, randonner d'autres, chuter d'autres encore. Une fois n'est pas coutume (mais elle pourrait le devenir!) un mouvement déstabilisant avait mis en alerte les sens des spectateurs endormis. Dans la voie des hommes en demi-finale, un certain poussé de paume (mouvement assez classique en coupe du monde de bloc, mais souvent exécuté à l'inverse , serré de réglette et pose de paume un peu à l'aveugle sur volume plus ou moins glissant et pied incertain en réception) aura stoppé bien des rêves de podium. Le grimpeur (malicieux sans être vicieux) redouble soudain d'attention dès qu'il a compris que là, dans ce bas de voie, quelque chose se mijote, qui va pimenter ce tour de piste qui aura tout finalement de la mort (symbolique) de toreros venus en découdre avec la bête! parfois c'est la bête qui gagne
OffLine J. Smith
  2018-10-01 20:46:33    
Everybody has right to write his/her opinion. In my opinion jeopardy in boulders is enough for sport climbing. Competitors have several tries on one boulder and several boulders. So on the end 20 or more tries decide the best competitor. A mistake or two don't make a difference. Each climber climbs at lest 20 minutes.
In lead everybody just has 1 try. Each mistake means the end of the story. With bad luck the competitor can finish the WC event after 30 seconds or even less. That's probably also the reason why the number of lead climbers is stagnating or even decreasing.¸
I personally liked to watch the old stile lead and I don't like to watch "on rope boulders" or modern parkour boulders. I don't believe here we can talk about right or wrong. My opinion is based on my personal feeling. Only time will show which decisions were positive for sport climbing and which not.