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Forum: GLOBAL / News / Schubert wins anti-climax show in Arco Login in to contribute
Schubert wins anti-climax show in Arco
OffLine 8a.nu
  2017-08-26 00:00:00    
Jakob Schubert won even he was timed out in Arco. The second last out was Adam Ondra, who found a no-hands rest, and had two minutes left and was actually shaking out in an undercling on a big volume. Suddenly he could not hold the volume at all and fell going to the next hold.

In the great IFSC live-streaming, Adam said that he had never competed in such bad conditions, complaining about the humidity. He explained that the reason why he could not hold the undercling was because he was sweating so much on his forearm that he finally could not hold it.

Last out was Alex Megos, who did fall early in a sideway dyno and the show finished in an anti-climax like for the female.

1. Jakob Schubert AUT 39
2. Adam Ondra CZE 38+
3. Max Rudigier AUT 38+
4. Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 34+
5. Keiichoro Korenaga JPN 33+
Complete results
OffLine nschenks87
  2017-08-26 22:49:21    
Schubert wins! But let's talk about why Adam Ondra didn't win.
OffLine Opi Brey
  2017-08-26 23:51:44    
nschen 90% of the arcos spectation comes from ondra, megos and janja.
deal with it
OffLine Thomas Maatz
  2017-08-27 09:06:49    
Nice job from Jakob. As you can see he climbed without thinking too much about going out-timed. Once again really hate this 6min rule.

Really sorry for Megos, he looked so strong in semis. I guess he remebers again, why not competing ist a good choice.
OffLine User Deactivated
  2017-08-27 10:01:31    
Yes, Megos was unlucky. But what reasons do you mean he got to stay out of competitions?
Its part of the game to fail sometimes.
OffLine bernd oman
  2017-08-27 11:42:41    
the article sounds like the wrong person won the event. very disrespectful to the achievement of jacob, who simply was the best this evening.

by the way, adam mentioned several times, that the skin on his hands is always too dry. his forearms seem to be different.

big hands for max! great weekend
OnLine Bojan
  2017-08-27 13:35:27    
Jain's result is wrong -- it's 38 (not 39), i.e. the same as Koller's, so Jain won on a count-back. What's more, Jain reach this hold just around the moment the time ran out:

AFAIK, time on screen is not official, so we couldn't know if Jain reached hold 38 before, at or even after time ran out. This issue should be fixed in the future -- accurate time must be on screen and there should be official 'photo finish' exactly in the moment at 6:00. I don't like time decides the winner (esp. after 6 minutes), but if there is the rule, we should measure it accurately and transparently.

After this, Jain not only "... looked liked she could have continued towards the top", but actually did continue. If she has 2 more minutes, we might see the only finals top in Arco or at least good fight just below it. Instead of that we saved 2 minutes. 'Thanks' again, IFSC. Stupid rules apart, well deserved win for Jain. And well deserved 2nd place for Anne-Sophie (incredible stick power after big swing and one hand slipped) in front of big names like Garnbret, Verhoeven and Shiraishi.

Jain won overall lead WC in 2010, 2013 and 2014, not in 2015 (when Markovič won). It already seemed her career is near to the end, but obviously she regained her confidence and 'hunger' for winning. Glad she did as her graceful climbing is still unparalleled by young stars.
OffLine TJ Vrag
  2017-08-27 17:16:43    
Time issue, risky moves and circus inserts are becoming more important than climbing. It's hard to watch and even harder to understand. The stupid 6 minutes rule has destroyed the lead climbing.
OffLine Christoph Barthel
  2017-08-27 20:18:17    
Great IFSC live stream ??? Did we watch the same thing?
All those skips in the stream were really annoying. This is far from professional work.
The only thing that was great in that stream was co-commentator (Stasa Gejo)
OffLine Jan V'
  2017-08-28 10:29:02    
I think words that article is very disrespectful to Jakob Schubert are too harsh. Jakob is mentioned as a winner, even Jens gives him credit for winning even despite he was timed out. Talking not only about winner is ok.

There are some cry-babies here who complain every time Adam Ondra is mentioned, like nschenks87. There's Ondra mentioned, but there's Megos mentioned, too. Talking about why Adam Ondra is wrong, but talking about Megos is ok...double standards.

@bernd oman "by the way, adam mentioned several times, that the skin on his hands is always too dry". Nope, he didn't mention he has always dry skin. Even he did though, I don't think mocking him is necessary. Don't be petty.
OffLine Jan V'
  2017-08-28 14:34:01    
@Thomas Maatz so you say that because one can fail not to compete at all is good choice. Ridiculous statement. Why, anyway? Because of fear? Or maybe because you and others might be reminded you are only a human? Or not as good as you or others believe?
OffLine Joe Crotty
  2017-08-28 17:40:42    
Route setting was solid. I would rather no one tops or just one climber as opposed to three tops. Better the entire field fail to top then have three tops or more. Having a comp in August is always risky so the conditions were to be expected. Fun event to watch.
OffLine Thomas Maatz
  2017-08-28 21:23:10    
@Jan V' hey! I assume my statement was not precise enough. I meant that, in the past, Alex has chosen not to compete and instead doing some freakin cool rock climbing/boulering. I guess he has his reason for that. Maybe negativ pressure inside the comps, maybe the more and more stupid ifsc surrounding e.g. 6min rule or stupidly set jumps around corners. What I wanted to say is, that the comp style moves more and more apart from climbing or bouldering outdoors.
OffLine Jan V'
  2017-08-29 07:17:25    
@Thomas Maatz so you say Megos can be avoiding competition because of fear. Interesting. I agree that could be the case, but who knows. 6 min. rule is here since this year. Alex wasn't competing even before. Lead comp style is pretty much outdoors climbing. Boulders though - they are not.
OffLine Jan V'
  2017-08-29 07:22:11    
And yep, competition was solid, route setting was good. Route setters can't do anything with sudden and brutal temperature changes. TJ Vrag ans some else are talking nonsense. For example jumps aren't part of the rock climbing? They definitely are. What features were there that aren't part of the rock climbing? No such features.

6 minutes rule were not problem at all - only Jakob Schubert had problem with that and he won at the end.
OffLine Thomas Maatz
  2017-08-29 07:38:38    
Not of fear, maybe it's not that fun compared to climbing outdoors. You're right jumps take part in outdoor climbing.But seriously this think looks so ugly. Mostly all of the athlets looking not too happy with this jump. But anyway the rest was setted good. I am just wondering that somebody was able to climb it in 6min. How many time had Adam left when he was falling?
OffLine Jan V'
  2017-08-29 11:37:53    
@Thomas Maatz Alex fails in the finals. Subsequently you state it reminded Alex why not competing is good choice. Thus it must have something to do with failure in final. Thus you say not to compete is good because you can fail. Time is not relevant here, I think we can agree on that since Alex fell pretty low.
Possible failure is part of competing, the way I see it. If you are not competing because of that, you want to avoid this possibility. I don't think you can generalizace it is good not to compete because you can fail, or be unlucky (which you do).
OffLine Jan V'
  2017-08-29 11:39:24    
@Thomas when Adam fell he had like 1:50.
OffLine Herman Claeys
  2017-08-30 12:14:56    
I don't think the "left-time" of AO is a good criteria for evaluating the 6min rule.

AO has always been the fastest climber around (together with MColl and Verhoeven), it would be total nonsense to state the 6min-rule is ok because AO "could have" climbed it within 6 minutes.( If he had 2 extra minutes, he would have had more recup-time in the route and would have stick the volume he fell on)

For me the comps lost a lot of suspense, most climbers rush in the route and fall while seeming fresh. They get pumped and fall within 5 seconds. With 8 minutes you could really see the battle against muscle fatigue and getting pumped. Also the ability to find (no hands) rest positions was exciting.

Great props to Jakob, still one of the strongest competition climbers when he is in a good flow.
OffLine Kilian Gebhardt
  2017-08-30 18:16:21    
Some time ago I read (somewhere I don't remember) that Alex did not compete internationally, because in order to qualify he would also need to compete in various national comps on different levels. These are scheduled in the months before the international comps, so basically there would be not much time left for the outdoor activities he wanted to do. Wonder how he qualified for the recent comps...
OffLine bmk
  2017-09-08 21:19:45    
Late to this because I was away and didn't see the final. The 6 minute rule is clearly destroying sport climbing - why doesn't 8a organise a petition against the decisions being taken by the IFSC - I am sure many people who watch climbing, including many competitors themselves, think the rule is stupid and the IFSC should be held to account and forced to confront their stupidity over a decision that will ultimately wreck televised climbing if it is left unchecked.