GO TO GLOBAL SITE   se es us fr za it
de ca au no
at br ru ch
gb pl nl sk
Home | News | Videos | Articles | Gallery | Crags | Gyms | Search - Tick List | Forum | Ranking | Blogs | Contact | New Member
Forum: GLOBAL / News / Record in ties and Hojer and Coxsey to the final Login in to contribute
Record in ties and Hojer and Coxsey to the final
OffLine 8a.nu
  2017-11-12 00:00:00    
The Kranj semifinal possibly set a new record when it comes to ties. Nine male came to hold 34 out of which seven got a plus and in the end it was the qualification result that decided whether you made it to the final. Romain Desgranges was ninth but was probably satisfied anyhow with this as that made him secure the overall victory. The biggest surprise was Jan Hojer at #5 but other then that, the boulderers had difficulties at the relatively short wall. Last out was Jan Schubert, who saved the show, by touching and winning the male semifinal.

Among the female, we got four tops and 17 girls on hold 30 or 30,5. When a 0,5 hold is given it normally means that the route setters have missed that a foot hold created an easier sequence. In the end, Akiyo Noguchi was the only one on 30.5+ to make it to the final. The big surprise and very good news was that Shauna Coxsey made it to the final. Complete results (c)Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine The Whistleblower 5
  2017-11-12 08:55:12    
The Kranj semifinal most probably didn't set a new record in ties.
OffLine Roman Batsenko
  2017-11-12 11:41:58    
Jan Schubert?
OffLine J. Smith
  2017-11-12 12:10:20    
All these ties are the consequence of "on rope speed boulder" concept which is the consequence of the stupid 6 minutes rule.
I have checked the number of competitors. In lead we now have less climbers than in 2016. Even many boulder climbers can't hide this fact. The "on rope speed boulder" is obviously not fun to climb and it's certainly not fun to watch. With many mistakes in result list was almost impossible to follow the competition. Can anybody undoubtedly explain the result 30.50+ in woman semis. One of competitors was later granted 31 instead of 30.50+. Can somebody explain how can the jury change the decision whether the hold was controlled or not?
OffLine Arnoud Prinz
  2017-11-12 12:51:49    
Kranj Is a short wall, so the 6 minute rule has no influence here.

When the climber is not agreed with the result, he/she can make a protest. The jury wil check it then with the video. The result can than changed.
OffLine Jan V'
  2017-11-12 13:23:56    
"All these ties are the consequence of "on rope speed boulder"

It was not record, Jens got it wrong. So your theory is proved to be wrong. Hahaha :)
OffLine J. Smith
  2017-11-12 13:43:41    
Jan V' you are a funny guy. I haven't mentioned any record. 17 competitors out of 26 falling on the same hold is no problem for you if it's not a record?
Arnaud Prinz - I agree about the height of the wall in Kranj. But even in Kranj the routes used to be more zig-zag and therefore longer. You can check the number of moves for previous years.
OffLine Arnoud Prinz
  2017-11-12 14:18:04    
But needed the athletes more than six minutes in the past? I did not checked but i dont think so. So than the six munute rule has no influence here. And if the route now is more short. Is it on purpose or is it coincidentel?

General steap wall climb fast. Than the six minute rule has no influence. There are a lot of comps without the 6 minutes rule, where the athletes climb faster than those six minutes.

So if you complane do it with the wright wall. And yes i also dont like the new rule.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-11-12 18:56:34    
The Wistleblower 5: So which competitions did you find more ties?
OffLine The Whistleblower 5
  2017-11-15 13:12:22    
Jens, which comp results you went through?