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Forum: GLOBAL / News / Petzl copies 3 year old 8a grigri technique Login in to contribute
Petzl copies 3 year old 8a grigri technique
OffLine 8a.nu
  2008-05-19 00:00:00    
Some years ago, GriGri accidents were quite common. In 2005, 8a discussed this in an article and suggested a new technique, check picture. Last month, Petzl released a new belay video and suggestions for a new GriGri technique which is the same as 8a introduced, three years ago!
OffLine Herman
  2008-05-19 13:31:13    
Dear 8a webmasters, dear Jens,
While I agree with you that 8a has played a role in grigri saftey (although we might differ on the extend) I must say that you claim too much by saying " a new GriGri technique which is the same as 8a introduced ". If you introduced it then one of you guys must have been the first person tot try it. Are you convinced that this is the case? If not, please change the news to something like "helped introduced to a large audience", "suggested" or (even more humble) "on which 8a published an article in 2005". P.s. I've been using this technique since i bought my first grigri some 10 years ago. I've been advising it to everyone I meet. So it must be me that introduced this technique, not 8a! :-)
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2008-05-19 14:14:17    
Thanks I have changed 'introduced' to suggested.
OffLine Claudio Gorla
  2008-05-19 15:04:53    
Scrivo in Italiano per essere più chiaro. Io utilizzo una tecnica che ritengo più sicura: tengo il gri-gri con la mano destra senza lasciarlo mai e do corda con la sinistra eventualmente piegandolo orizzontalmente. Il vantaggio è che se il primo vola mentre il gri-gri è piegato la forza lo raddizza immediatamente permettendogli di bloccare. Non c'è un solo istante in cui la leva è bloccata. Spero di essere stato chiaro. Claudio
OffLine David No
  2008-05-19 18:58:13    
"Petzl copies"

I use this Grigri belaying technique since I've been reading about it on 8a.nu, and I'm thankful to have learned about it on this site. I always feel funny when I get belayed on the traditional unofficial method.

Fortunately, Petzl finally recommends the "8a" method officially.

But still I find it a bit funny to state that Petzl "copied" the method. (see coment above)

8a is getting ever more popular, and important, but even more so this means that a bit of humility wouldn't be amiss.

(e.g. sport climbing is not the best, the greatest, certainly not the most important sport on the world - even though it is for me; very good climbers are not really celebrities or heros, even though they can be inspiring)

I like your site and I appreciate the work you put into it. Take this criticism as encouragement to make the site even better.
OffLine Soy el pinche pato
  2008-05-20 01:18:47    
OffLine James Velasco
  2008-05-20 01:25:28    
I dont  care  who  invented,  the  objetive  is  to  teach  how  to  climb  safe and  avoid  accidents, Thats  IMPORTANT.   Im sure  lots  of  people have  seen  the right methods in both sites and  now  are  belaying  safe.
OffLine User Deactivated
  2008-05-20 07:41:09    
Yes James, you are absolutely right...
The purpose of the article is to get people to belay in a safe way. Whether the technique is new or whether Petzl has copied it or not is not important. It was however new to Petzl (who was contacted at the time) by the time the article was written but ofcourse there are people who have come up with similar methods on their own. Climb well and safe...  :-)
OffLine Patrick 'Petje' Coenen
  2008-05-20 11:29:50    
And a shame 'my' method isn't even known by 8a or petzl. A method belaying with the grigri where you don't have to touch the handle, even with one finger! (i really should make a picture or video from this method. i think it's even safer then the other methods, cos you don't touch the handle at all)
OffLine Claudio Gorla
  2008-05-20 14:51:28    
I'm sorry for Italian landguadge and also my bad English, but with help for traslation I try to send my contribute to the discussion.   I use a technique that I think is more secure: I take the gri gri with the right hand and that will not ever leave the instrument and do the rope with his left hand. When there is too much friction address gri gri horizontally. The advantage of using the gri gri in this way is that when the climber flies while the gri gri is bent the impact of his weight go straight ago the instrument and blocks There is not a time when the lever is locked. Thanks Claudio
OffLine Samuel
  2008-06-01 02:57:17    
This article, and the claim " Petzl copies 3 year old 8a grigri technique " is outrageous. I wrote an article on this in early 2004 on Steepstone.com, and later also on rockclimbing.com , does that mean 8a copied it from me? Besides, I would never claim that I invented it. It was also documented by The Swiss alpine club in 03/2004. (Check figure 9) Also, I wrote an article for brattesider.no (Norwegian) about this later. Also, from your description, it seems you missed the point with it, as you have pictured some of the fingers on the underside of the grigri aswell, negating some of the advantages of this method as the user might squeeze the grigri together during a fall, effectively locking it open. Samuel
OffLine Stefano Braggio
  2008-06-05 16:48:22    
well,the technique 8a claims to have invented is old!!!  i use this tech since 98,learned it by my self,since i never liked the "normal" way to use the gri-gri. and after some trial and error,i got to this tech that 8a says petzl copied. come on,this is simple tech,who ever has a good iq can figure this out. in my opinion 8a should review there statement about having invented this belay tech and that petzl has copied it.