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Forum: GLOBAL / News / Ondra technical training and flexibility is most productive Login in to contribute
Ondra technical training and flexibility is most productive
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-02-18 00:00:00    
Physical training recipes you find all over and this seems to be the prioritized way of training for almost every dedicated climber. It is easy to follow a physical program and it is easy to measure progress. In practice, this means that most of us have trained hard to optimize our physical strength. At the same time, you might be close to get injured if you just continue that physical focus.

In other words, it might most productive to add a couple of hours with technical training instead of a continuation with sub-optimization physical training.

Looking at the best climber in the world, Adam Ondra, we can see that what most differate him to other climbers are actually his fast climbing as well as knee-dropping and flexibility.

As simple as it sounds, the fastest way to progress for the dedicated climber is probably just to try to copy the master. During every other training session, spend an hour climbing very fast and also practice on your knee-dropping technic as well as doing some flexibility training.

Within a month, you have probably made a solid base to take the next step in your progress.
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OffLine Franz the Stampede
  2018-02-18 22:37:08    
Anyone will gain the most benefits from training their weakest areas, no great news there. Sometimes, you are only as a good as the thing you do worst. However, I don't think that's Adam's lesson. To me his lesson is more among the lines that not a single thing should be "idolised" and over-relied on and that the end justifies the means. He could climb even more precisely, but he would lose in speed. He could probably pack more muscle, but he would lose in endurance and relative finger strength. He admitted that sometimes he climbed technically wrong in order to gain a tactical advantage  (e.g. is the crux was a right hand move, he would overuse the left hand in the moves before to have the right fresher for the crux). What I see is somebody who doesn't just focus on a particular weapon he has, but relies on a variety of things in a balanced manner as the challenge at hand requires. He sort of reverse-engineer what the route asks of him rather than just throwing blindly his favourite things (e.g. dynos, endurance, finger strength etc) at the route.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-02-19 07:24:24    
I agree what you say and that is why I think climbing faster is the most productive way to become a better climber. This will force you to take greater risk and climb more spontaneous increasing your climbing reportoire.
OffLine Franz the Stampede
  2018-02-20 13:01:11    
But it's not just that. Not on all terrains. Not on all situations. Adam himself learned to go slow in situations such as in Yosemite.
People just have to part ways with the silver bullet mentality. There isn't just one thing that will make you climb better, nor a thing that will always work.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-02-20 13:29:44    
Of course, not on all terrain, all situations and for everyone... but in general, I think that the most productive training for most guys would be to actually add one hour every other sessions climbing faster and work on your knee-dropping and flexibility.