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OHM - A future smashing success
OffLine 8a.nu
  2017-08-08 00:00:00    
My 19 kg son tried belaying me at 67 kg for the very first time and thanks to the OHM it worked great. Olle was really pleased to have full control and I had to climb up two meters several times so he could lower me down.

- Dad! This is cool. How does it work?

- The OHM in the first bolt assists small belayers by creating friction.

- I want to try again. Now I can work as your belayer when you are drilling.

It should be noted that the official Edelrid manual says,
"Recommended weight difference (lead climber > belayer): 10 - 40 kg Minimum weight belayer: 40 kg".

The OHM is first of all produced to assist lighter belayers when their partner takes a fall. Often in a gym or even outdoors you see smaller belayers attached to some kilos of sand or so. It says that the OHM does not increase the rope drag for the lead climber but when we tested the device on a slab, sometimes it rotated and some ropedrag was created. On steeper terrain we noticed almost no increased ropedrag.

I do think this will be a smashing success especially for families with kids. I will certainly not allow my kid to belay me climbing for several years but in order to get everyone more involved, I will let Olle, under my careful supervision, belay his little brother. I am very sure they will be both very proud and it is very good for them to learn the safety protocol and how to trust each other.
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine Joe Skopec
  2017-08-08 14:43:41    
The Ohm works great, but does not work on roof climbing. While climbing on a roof the Ohm will short the climber. Hopefully the next version prevents this because I love the idea of this product!
OffLine Mike C
  2017-08-09 14:57:50    
I've noticed it can snag if the first bolt is after a slab and then goes into overhang. I guess it's the angle between the belayer, first bolt and second bolt than can be the issue, be it on a roof or as I described. It's like a belayer that won't give you rope fast enough every once in a while. For me it's manageable so I still use it in these situations.