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Off the wagon low 8C+ by Shawn Raboutou
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-11-28 00:00:00    
Off the Wagon in Valle Bavona is an iconic boulder due to the one meter cross over move where you face outwards. It was put up bu Nalle Hukkataival as an 8C but later everyone who has praised it calls it 8B+, video. Now Giuliano Cameroni reports on Insta that Shawn Raboutou has done the low start, 8C+.

Just some days ago, Shawn did Foundations Edge 8C and prior to that he made the FA of L’Oeuvre in Bouddha crag saying it is either 8c+ or 9a. In retro perspective being in the best shape of his life it seems and also always being modest with grading, it just might be a very hard 9a :)
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine Nathan Schulpen
  2018-11-28 10:43:00    
Does this mean it's not starting off the wagon anymore?
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-11-28 11:06:46    
Previously it was a stand start but now Shawn has added a lower start, almost sitting on the wagon.
OffLine Andi Sch
  2018-11-28 16:16:25    
How hard is the Low Sit gonna be? ;)
OffLine Samuel Ometz
  2018-11-28 17:45:59    
It's the lowest start, further down it's choss. If there wasn't the wagon, shawn's start would be the only possible one, standing!
OffLine Nicholas Valoff
  2018-11-28 18:40:02    
Curious how many days he put in trying this. Seems like people are quick to claim stratospheric boulder grades these days (not saying that they are wrong), but I just think about Nalle spending some 80+ days to claim the FA of Burden of Dreams, 9a. Are attempts even a good indicator of grades for this new generation, or are they all just THAT strong.
OffLine Nicklozica
  2018-11-28 18:59:04    
He's talking rope grades
OffLine bomberone
  2018-11-28 19:27:14    
Great effort! fat line.
OffLine Nicholas Valoff
  2018-11-28 19:31:54    
I'm referring to the 8c+ given to this climb.
OffLine Giuliano Cameroni
  2018-11-28 20:59:17    
OffLine rai
  2018-11-28 21:50:15    
Waou! The family must be proud...!!!
OffLine Sebastian Peace
  2018-11-28 22:01:10    
no matter what grade, amazing line and send!
OnLine Geo Bush
  2018-11-29 05:27:23    
Classic teenage rebellion against his sport-climbing Dad
OffLine Henning Wang
  2018-11-29 22:11:13    
Attempts and time have never been a good indicator of difficulty outside, ever..
To quote Nalle: "Climbing hard boulders is hard. No amount of gym training will get you better weather. And no amount of waiting guarantees you a chance. But it´s always a good day when you get to climb on your project"

This of course also aplies to routes.
Weather and conditions is a huge factor outside. In perfect shape coming out of the gym, hitting perfect conditions on the rock, hard things might go down fast and feel easy. If conditions/weather is bad however you might spend 40 days working links, just waiting for that one day it´s dry and you can actually try.. So does this influence difficulty? not really, it just means you got lucky/unlucky.
OffLine Joakim Thommesen
  2018-11-30 11:35:16    
Off course time spent/attempts are good indicators of how hard a boulder/route is. The best indicators, actually.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-11-30 12:23:43    
Time spent/Attempts, during good conditions, are the very best indicator :)

How can you otherwise come up with an idea how hard a climb is?