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Forum: GLOBAL / News / No Kpote Only 9A by Ryohei Kameyama Login in to contribute
No Kpote Only 9A by Ryohei Kameyama
OffLine 8a.nu
  2019-03-10 00:00:00    
Ryohei Kameyama reports on Insta that he has done the first repeat of Charles Albert's No Kapote Only 9A in Fontainebleau. More info to come. (c) Ryosuke Hibino

" I feel "Burden of Dreams" is more a little difficult than this problem. I think this boulder is v16/17."
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine Opi Brey
  2019-03-10 11:12:14    
OffLine Henning Wang
  2019-03-10 14:49:37    
Is that to say that he has been to Finland and tried Burden?
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2019-03-10 14:52:39    
Yes, as can be seen on his Insta.
OffLine Bongowurm
  2019-03-10 15:32:14    
I'm wondering how John Gaskins' unrepeated problems stack up against these.
OffLine Louis Jones
  2019-03-10 19:47:43    
OffLine Henning Wang
  2019-03-10 20:48:53    
Why does the headline say: No Kapote Only 9A (8C+) by Ryohei Kameyama, when no one has given it 8C+? Should that not be: No Kapote Only 9A (8C+/9A) by Ryohei Kameyama?
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2019-03-10 21:33:49    
He did it in four sessions :)
OffLine SashaPro
  2019-03-10 21:37:29    
Oh Jens, so why exactly you only quote the first part of Ryohei's comment on Instagram, leaving out this important continuation: "... but I don't climb many hard boulders like v15 or v16. So,I can't compare with them. Parhaps my grading isn't correct. I want to challenge other hard boulders!"?
It changes the tone of his comment completely, as he is very careful and honest with his words regarding the grade. Whereas you're trying to make it look like he made a definite statement about the grade.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2019-03-10 21:54:17    
It says in the news that he just have done two 8C+', which make it obvious that grading is uncertain. I would be very surprised if it not would be considered maximum 8C+ in the future.
OffLine Yuki Yuki
  2019-03-11 03:58:06    
What does it mean "No Kapote Only" ?
It sounds like "No Condom Only", does it mean "No Shoes Only"?
OffLine Quentin Viaud
  2019-03-11 09:13:04    
Yes, Kapote (actually written capote) is a french slang meaning condom. You're probably right, it means no shoes only.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2019-03-11 09:16:20    
The name is Kpote not Kapote...
OffLine Jason Crank
  2019-03-11 13:26:03    
Quentin, my understanding was the boulder was named No Kpote Only (Bareback Only) on account of that phrase being included amongst the graffiti on the bloc.
OffLine Quentin Viaud
  2019-03-11 13:50:40    
Oh ! I didn't notice that. You're probably right then (or it's both).
OffLine Yuki Yuki
  2019-03-11 15:42:00    
Thank you, Quentin, Jens and Jason. I believe Kpote also means Kapote. Probably the name of problem is a message from Charles. Or a message from the rock/graffiti.
OffLine gi bi
  2019-03-11 22:17:46    
Yep, and did all the hard moves. Just need to put it together. The guy is a monster.

Check his tries https://www.instagram.com/p/BnhfWrPj7zj/
OffLine Jan V'
  2019-03-12 12:45:45    
@gi bi he didn't do all the moves. He couldn't make the first move, it's clear from the link, too.
OffLine Daniel Fagerlund
  2019-03-13 11:28:17    
He's starting from a few moves in on Burden of Dreams.