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Forum: GLOBAL / News / Megos does 12 routes 8c and harder in 8 days Login in to contribute
Megos does 12 routes 8c and harder in 8 days
OffLine 8a.nu
  2017-09-06 00:00:00    
Alex Megos has some kind of new record doing an 8c or harder in seven days in a row during his "Old school classics" tour around Switzerland. Here is his amazing tick list including also an eight day, in a row, going to Arco.

Patrick Matros, one of Megos' coaches, accompanied him on the marathon tour where it also rained most of the days. "It was important for Alex to meet some of the 1st ascenders like Beat Kammerlander and Eric Talmadge. His aim was, to repeat some of the hard ultraclassics of Switzerland. Not so much to throw down every hard route there, despite his long list."

Day 1. Speed 8c+ (2nd Go)
2. Speed Integral 9a (6th Go)
3. Ravage 8c. Enfant de Boheme 8c, L'appel de la foret 8c: (All 2nd Go)
4. Im Reich des Shogun 9a (3rd Go) Thomas Ballenberger
5. Les temps difficiles 8c+, Rammstein 8c, two 8b+': (All 2nd Go)
6. Coup de Grace 9a (2nd Go)
7. Deus Irae 8c+ (2nd Go)

The eight day in a row, Alex drove to Arco and had a gym session with Stefano Ghisolfi and later he did Sid Lives 9a and Bucking Bronco 8c+.
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine frank krane
  2017-09-06 09:49:23    
Super Magos!! (12 routes 8c or harder or 14 routes 8b+ or harder. Eighth not eight.)
OffLine b mi
  2017-09-06 14:20:54    
Sounds like Alex has finished his warm up routine and starts to climb ;D
OffLine Thomas Halley
  2017-09-06 23:05:40    
Dear god... I'm not sure if I'd rather have the same last 9 days as Alex or Adam...
OffLine Jan V'
  2017-09-07 10:16:05    
Great climbing. Has Alex climbed some 9b+? I am not sure.

@Thomas Halley you can't be seriuos. It's very clear.
OffLine Jason Crank
  2017-09-07 19:01:22    
Jan - there have been 4 total 9b+ ascents, and 3 belong to Adam, with the last belonging to Sharma. I'd be interested to see Megos project one of the 3 9b+ routes up there, or even take on some of the long-time unrepeated 9a+ and 9b like Neaderthal or Marina Superstar.
OffLine Franz the Stampede
  2017-09-07 19:14:39    
Im reich des Shogun 9a+ was already one of the most whimsical and obscure 9a+ routes there. A multi-year project by the first ascentionist, which trained specifically and had to wait for impossibly perfect conditions. Adam did the first repeat in his youth and it was nice to hear of Megos send it recently.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-09-07 19:55:09    
Both the FA, Adam Ondra and Alex Megos have given 8a for Im reich des Shogun so why do you call it 9a+?
OffLine Thomas Halley
  2017-09-07 20:02:21    
@jan V Is it clear? I'm not saying who had the better week or who pushed the sport forward more. That's obviously Adam. But if I had to have a choice of doing a hard project or doing EVERY hard climb in a country while climbing 9 days in a row... all I'm saying is I'm not sure. I'm sure Adam was more satisfied but I bet Alex had more fun. Just my opinion
OffLine Robert Kasper
  2017-09-07 22:35:58    
Wow jens no need to get passive agressive. Shogun was touted as a possible 9a+ on this site by the guy who writes the headlines. So dont get itchy when someone calls it 9a+
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-09-08 07:51:06    
Based on what facts or opinion could you say it is 9a+ when all guys who made it have given it 9a and in fact they did it rather fast? I have never heard anybody saying it is 9a+ and if so, clearly we can now say it is a mistake that should get corrected.
OffLine simpson
  2017-09-08 11:43:21    


"We've tested Alex, and I feel pretty safe in saying that he's almost certainly the most physically capable climber in the world right now (in as much as any one climber can be, I'm sure there are people out there who could beat him in one or two measures, but Alex is pretty physically well rounded.) So why isn't he climbing the hardest routes and boulder problems in the world? When it comes to routes I think his approach almost certainly plays a part (train hard, send fast). Compare that to Adam who has a completely unrivalled depth of experience on hard routes and a long history of extended redpoints. From a tactics / technique perspective Adam is way ahead."
OffLine Jan V'
  2017-09-08 18:52:23    
@Thomas well, frankly I think you'd like tu push sport forward more.
OffLine Jan V'
  2017-09-08 18:55:23    
@simpson useless article.
OffLine Jan V'
  2017-09-08 18:58:18    
@simpson useless article.

Edit: not just useless - ridiculous.
OffLine simpson
  2017-09-08 19:05:35    
You are welcome :)
OffLine Jan V'
  2017-09-08 22:18:31    
You avoided answer, thus it seems you agree with me.
OffLine bomberone
  2017-09-09 18:13:15    
As far as Megos` trainers once mentioned in an interview, his long term tactics are not to climb the hardest routes too early. he sets a broad pyramid first by climbing 9a+ fast and many like he does at the moment.for that he stays hungry and syked even more, by this "artificial hold back". If you want to climb 9b+ or harder, you should be able to climb 9a+ easily to have enough power for the 8C boulders!