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Forum: GLOBAL / News / Maximizing your grade Login in to contribute
Maximizing your grade
OffLine 8a.nu
  2008-12-04 00:00:00    
"You should train your weak points", is a comon saying that will not help to maximizing your grade performance. Most climbers have some pre-dominant natural skill like crimping, knee-dropping, endurance etc and/or are physically not average when it comes to length, finger sizes etc. The best grade performances for women and youngsters are as an example of seen on endurance routes with one-two-three finger pockets all over. By analysing and training your unique skills and feature and matching them to different climbs you might find a short cut for a personal record/J
OffLine manacubus
  2008-12-04 02:01:42    
Yes, playing to your strengths without addressing your weaknesses might help you get that "personal record", but it won't make you a better all-round climber. It will make you a more unbalanced climber, which will be quickly exposed as soon as you step away from whichever form of climbing you have specialized in. You can see this phenomenon often with locals who crush at their local crags, and yet climb very poorly away from home. Lee Cujes www.upskillclimbing.com
OffLine Kyle Kirk
  2008-12-04 03:33:42    
That's just ridiculous, as Lee said above, sure you can get a "personal record", which I also think its stupid to try to compare running to climbing to begin with, as the motivations for climbing are just as vast as they are for running and not everyone runs competitively or ever care about their personal bests. Its just like trying to set your personal record for a marathon by signing up for a race that is completely flat or downhill. At the end of the day though you come out an unbalanced climber who is restricted to "performing" on very specific routes, instead of being able to adequately sample all that there is. I think a better way to go is to acknowledge what your natural skills are, learn to rely on them when you can, but to not let all other things to go to waste simply because you are not naturally strong in that area. There's lots of valuable ways to use your natural skills to an advantage that don't allow your other skills to diminish.
OffLine Petter Ulmert
  2008-12-04 08:28:02    
To the author of this article, If you wish to give reliable advicees,
check your own knowledge of performance traning first. Stop trying to invent something that is already
well known and differs from your point of view. This advice you give (
wich, in a way, is correct but in a different context) not only
minimizes young climbers ability in the long run, it can also put young
climbers, and adult beginners to, in a style of training and climbing
wich can lead to injures. They can develop instabillity in their bodys
and lack of performance abillity in their training regims. so humble, so brave. /petter
OffLine Ricardo Belchior
  2008-12-04 11:37:07    
If we focus just on beating a record... that is probably true only in the short run!! In the long run it will be better if you develop everything! Maybe you like better long moves than crimps but somewere along the way the hardest route you will want to do will have crimps... Here´s a tip for someone who wants to progress: - For every new level (6a, 7b, 8a whatever) do 3 routes in that level (one sustained, another of long resistence and finally another of boulder moves or short resistence). - Than go for the next level! - If you want to send them very fast, train similiar moves especifically for each one of those climbs. But most of all, enjoy the way. Greentigs to all Ricardo Belchior
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2008-12-04 11:37:46    
@ ulmert: Could you please explain better. " Stop trying to invent something that is already well known and differs from your point of view. " I guess there are many 8a visitors that found this news interesting. When ever I ran a clinic I always talk about this concept and it always receive attention.
OffLine Hlynur Haf
  2008-12-04 12:01:49    
Why don't you just post these traning tips in some new subfolder called perhaps Traning or Working out with Jens or The Clinic?
Then you don't have to re-post these tips every other 2 years.
OffLine Alan Krizanic
  2008-12-04 12:16:08    
I like this polemics on 8a. I have also seen this tips already, so what? I think this news is supposed to open a discussion, its not an absolute rule. Good work guys, the site is vivid.
OffLine User Deactivated
  2008-12-04 12:16:34    
So, Jens, you advice to a very talanted maraton runner isn´t that he/she should go fore 100 meter next olympics?
Good becouse i ges they already know that would be a waist of talant.
So insted your traning advice to the maratonrunner is to always run 40230 (whatever) meters and that the 100 meter runner al day in and al day out should run 100 meters as fast as he can. Do i understand you correctly?
OnLine gianluca
  2008-12-04 12:25:25    
Nothing new. It is up to one's motivation and philosophy really. I could say, if you see performance as a reward for work, train weaknesses. If you see it as the proof/consequence of a talent, focus on strenghts. If you want to show "level", ie always perform well in any situation, train weaknesses. If you care more about discovering your potential and you can accept being a sucker on some styles, go for your strenghts. myself I am for the second, I enjoy climbing almost everything but to me performance is talent, and talent can't be something universal. So, when I am motivated to climb something at my limit, I look for specific things...
OffLine Petter Ulmert
  2008-12-04 13:20:49    
@ larsen: yes, quite cryptic sentense from me, sorry. What i meant was that your advice is well known but you put it in a to narrow context. You also put it as its the right way to perform, opposed to traning or develop your weakneses. wich is a wrong statment and out of context as a traning advise. Its like reading and/or taking a diet advice from an tabloidpaper... savey? cheers/petter
OffLine sidepull
  2008-12-05 00:09:39    
Martin,
Let me help you out. Jens was simply trying to explain that he's an idiot who is more interested in outcomes rather than process, shortcuts rather than hardwork, idiotic assertions rather than thoughtful analysis, and tabloidery rather than news.
Hope that helps!
OffLine User Deactivated
  2008-12-05 12:54:27    
Thank you mr Sidepull that helpt me in one way, i got your opinion and it seems that your opinion is the same as a majority on this link; the shortcut won´t help you in the long run! But still, if i happand to be a very talanted 100 meter runner, what kind of traning should i do to improve? And just as a notification, it´s not very polite to call someone a idiot. Also if you think the guy how made 8a  up is an idiot and you yourself is a part of it, what does that make you?
OffLine Cathy Wagner (f)
  2008-12-07 22:47:50    
Most climbers have some pre-dominant natural skill like crimping, knee-dropping, endurance etc and/or are physically not average when it comes to length, finger sizes etc. The best grade performances for women and youngsters are as an example of seen on endurance routes with one-two-three finger pockets all over. Finger size is absolutely deciding when it comes to climbing on pockets ( natural ones and chipped ones) or slots. When the crux consists in pulling one finger-pocket, you need to be strong and even if you're strong, the crux will be harder for you than for youngsters and women who most of the time have thinner fingers than adult male climbers. I think that youngsters ticking hard classic routes in FKJ for example -even if they're smaller- have an advantage whenever they can fit more fingers in holds. I know some German climbers who have a special name for holds: FRAUEN GRIFFEN ... On those routes, women are very likely to gain the upper hand over them! cathy w.
OffLine Heidi Rohwer (f)
  2008-12-07 23:19:17    
Well, if you want to break a grade, it only makes sense to choose a route which suits your strengths. It only becomes a problem if this is the only type of route you work. I think a combination of the two approaches is the most logical and balanced. Choose routes that suit your strengths at your redpoint/onsight limit, but go for routes that work your weaknesses 1 or 2 grades below your redpoint/onsight limit.
OffLine Eetu
  2008-12-11 09:12:14    
I don't always agree on what is said on 8a, but this post grade centered and extremely short sighted as it might be, is true. It is common sense that during a day to get a personal best climb a route that suits you. But is it an opinion that should brake the news barrier??
OffLine Vali Cretu
  2013-01-02 14:28:50    
sidepull's comments are always a pleasure to read :)