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Alexey Rubtsov speaks out
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-04-20 00:00:00    
Innsbruck 2018 has published a very interesting interview with Alexey Rubtsov who won the World Champion in 2009 after just having trained bouldering for three years. His big focus is the Olympics and last year he tried Lead and was #17 without any training. Here are some of the lonely wolf's straight forward messages.

"The brain is the most important part in climbing. Maybe not in speed (laughs), but in bouldering for sure.

In Europe, every coach thinks that he's the smartest one and his system is the best. They are authoritarian. But they should understand that they know nothing and start their education from zero. I can't tell you what I do, because that is my secret. Laughs.

You need to widen your repertoire to improve, not focusing on small things, but on the big picture... It is better for me to be alone.

You could maybe remove the bonus, even. You can do the boulder, or you can't. Bouldering is good. One bonus, two bonuses, ten bonuses, ... what is that? It's not Bouldering."
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine Štěpán Volf
  2018-04-20 13:21:32    
Great opinion. Somebody finaly said that about no zones.. “you can do the boulder or you can’t”
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-04-20 14:20:56    
I guess everyone agrees on this. The problem is that we can not separate the climbers just by counting attempts to Top or even one zone. On the contrary, I think we will see two zones being used in the future as the level of the top climbers even outs.

One alternative is to actually sum up qually, semi and final but it will nevertheless most probably create semis with up to 40 participants.
OffLine John Render
  2018-04-20 15:35:03    
Really interesting interview with an original thinker and doer. Whenever I read about how Dimitri and Rubtsov train(ed), I wonder what they might have accomplished if they hadn't had to invent everything by themselves from square one.

Don't agree with him about zones, though. They are the best way to break ties, IMO, unless Alexei can suggest a better alternative. (And I agree with Jens that we need more, not less, of them.) If you accept Rubtsov's logic -- you either climb the boulder or you don't -- why does that not apply to lead as well?
OffLine JBee
  2018-04-23 11:05:37    
He mentions that he has lost a lot of health by training himself exclusively, focusing on comps to pay his bills (which can't be high, regarding the boni you get there..), got the title and quit with his mentor and training partner. Maybe he is an original thinker and doer, but all that sounds very frustrating to me. And if you are frustrated, you blame others, in this case the european trainers...that's not inspiring, that's pretty poor.
So happy that I can go climb outdoors with my friends and don't have to destroy myself and spent a solitary life in indoor walls and on comps to pay my bills :-)