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Forum: GLOBAL / News / Les mollahs du mur 9a FA by Loic Zehani (17) Login in to contribute
Les mollahs du mur 9a FA by Loic Zehani (17)
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-10-05 00:00:00    
Loic Zehani has done his tenth 9a with the FA of Les mollahs du mur in Orgon which was bolted by Olivier Bert.

"This winter I would love to try "Le Bombé Bleu" at Buoux (maybe 9b) and mythical project for sure. Last year I did almost all the moves (just the first one where I could not do the land a two finger pocket properly after a mega jump. It's a fantastic line in a fantastic place bu it's very dangerous for the fingers."

LBB was bolted by Marc Menestrel in 1991. Many of the top climbers like Ben Moon, Stefan Glowacz, Chris Sharma, Fred Rouhling and Iker Pou have tried it saying it is indeed super beautiful. Noteworthy is that in 1993, a french magazine reported it to have been done and graded 9a but today nobody believes this to be true.
OffLine Sebastian Peace
  2018-10-04 18:36:53    
Awesome, I was waiting for news about "Le Bombé Bleu".
edit: It seems somebody else is trying it aswell: Nico Januel (Instagram)
edit2: I think this is the video Marco is talking about: VIDEO PROFILE: BD athlete Kévin Aglaé climbing in Buoux, France (Vimeo)
OffLine Marco Troussier
  2018-10-05 08:15:34    
Salut Loïc, je ne sais pas si tu sais mais Kevin Aglaé a fait une tentative en passant par la droite, petite inversée pour catcher le bi-doigt d'arrivé avec la main gauche, on voit ça sur un petit film Black Diamond où il faisait les "classiques" de Buoux. A+
OffLine Loic Zehani
  2018-10-05 19:22:38    
salut Marco , j'ai essayé cette méthode mais pour ma taille (176) c'est compliqué. Je ne suis pas loin de réussir de faire le mouvement par la gauche.Si seulement la voie était finie à ce bidoigt mais derrière ça grimpe encore … a+