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La cène du roi lézard 9a+ by Cedric Lachat
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-10-13 00:00:00    
Fanatic Climbing reports that Cedric Lachat has done the first repeat of Pirmin Bertle's La cène du roi lézard 9a+ in Jansegg. Watching Cedric go more to the left, during his first sessions out of ten, avoiding the original elimination dyno, Pirmin thought Cedric solution was more logical and had already down graded it to 9a+ which Cedric confirms.

Cedric, who previously have done 22 routes 9a and 9a+, has never worked so long for a 9 graded route. He also tried Pirmin's La barrière 9b, which is the same route but instead of the 8b start it begins with a 9a variation, but he could not do all moves. (c) Adeline Helg
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine Andreas Jakwerth
  2018-10-11 09:47:17    
yeah! good news for both of them ;) i really like the picture, you can really see that this section is hard...
OffLine Jean-Baptiste Jourjon
  2018-10-11 11:28:40    
Why such amount of tape on shoes ?
OffLine Théophile Ruzicka
  2018-10-11 11:42:38    
He reported on Instagram he has a heel inflammation, so he cut the shoe!
OffLine Sebastian Peace
  2018-10-11 13:26:47    
Nice, I think Cedric is a cool, funny and strong guy (judging from his videos like Silbergeier). This might also change the view of some others about how strong Pirmin is.
OffLine Roman Batsenko
  2018-10-11 14:16:42    
All those Pirmin's haters can eat their shoes so :)
OffLine Atious
  2018-10-11 16:46:14    
Source; Fantic Climbing site; Cedric said; “Despite Jansegg is a crag where it miss some heigth, it’s very beautiful. There is all climbing level and it’s a wonderful place. The route are very nice to climb, it’s very intense in a very hard and morpho style. For “La cène du lézard”, I did finally a lot of tries before sending. I came 10 times, it’s not very usual for me! A move caused me troubles, I hadn’t enough strenght for mastering it. After a while, I get finally used to stick it. After so many tries, I felt the send easy like 9a, but according to my numerous goes, I think it can deserve the 9a+ grade. We will see the opinion of next climbers…The beginning is powerful and nice, then you have this traverse with this bouldery move, and you arrive to the final dyno…The move is pure and spectacular, it’s very nice and hard, but…It’s the crapest move you can find in a route! The first time I was trying it with Pirmin, if Pirmin weren’t there, I didnt take this option. A ledge is 50 centimeters up and it’s more logical to use it. For me the route should end at the dyno. Here it’s like defining a route for climbing something harder, eliminating… But the dyno is very cool and hard…At the beginning I wasn’t able to understand why I was climbing in this way at the top. Without this move, the route will be given 9a. But before having a critical position, I wanted to repeat it. Despite the eliminate climbing at the top, it’s an hard and nice route. I also tried the harder start (the 9b called “La barrière “) and I didn’t arrive to do the moves. There is a very bouldery and morpho crux. Nice send…”
OffLine Atious
  2018-10-11 16:46:16    
Double post
OffLine san gray
  2018-10-11 19:14:36    
OffLine Sebastian Peace
  2018-10-11 19:21:07    
*preparing popcorn*

btw: I think this part of the news is wrong: "Watching Cedric go more to the left, during his first sessions out of ten, avoiding the original elimination dyno, Pirmin thought Cedric solution was more logical and had already down graded it to 9a+ which Cedric confirms."

As I understand it Cedric thinks the route is 9a+ WITH the dyno, (but it felt like 9a on his send because he knew it so well). Without the dyno (more logical to Cedric, because no elimination) the route seems like 9a to Cedric. I think Pirmin and Cedric did the dyno in a different way, but Cedric sent it WITH the dyno.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-10-11 22:34:57    
Pirmin has read and given ok for the article.

Originally there was an elimination dyno but Cedric did partly go around it making the dyno easier. Pirmin agrees that this was a better slution and because of that he down graded this earlier this spring.
OffLine Sebastian Peace
  2018-10-11 23:12:29    
To me it looks like he did not skip the dyno partly but did it in a different way:
Pirmin on the dyno(minute 8)
Cedric on the dyno
I am not sure what Cedric means exactly with "elimination". Is the dyno itself an elimination because the route has an easier exit without the dyno? (Cedric: "Without this move, the route will be given 9a.") Or does he mean the part after the dyno?
Edit: I think Cedric did it with the dyno and agrees with the 9a+ grade of this version but also thinks the route is more logical without the dyno (9a version). While sending, the route felt easy to him (~9a) but because he needed many tries he thinks it can warrent the 9a+ grade.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-10-12 08:03:27    
Cedric did the dyno in another way in comparison to Pirmin.
OffLine Gollm 33
  2018-10-12 09:36:27    
There are two words in the French version of the article on Fanatic Climbing that are missing in the English translation :

The French reads: Et sans ce mouvement la voie serait juste 9a, et encore…

Which would tentatively translate to: without this move the route would just be 9a, at most...
OffLine Yannick Jaquet
  2018-10-12 15:24:31    
What Cedric means with elimination is that you can actually skip the dyno by going 50cm straight up to a ledge and then traversing. This is why he says that it is more logical to stop the route before the dyno as it makes no sense to climb something harder than necessary. But as this dyno is cool and hard, it is a nice artificial way to extend the route and this is how they sent the route. They both agreed for 9a+ but Cedric says that if you stopped the route before the dyno it would be 9a, at most. I hope it is clearer now
OffLine Sebastian Peace
  2018-10-12 15:40:46    
Yes Yannick, thanks, this seems right :)
edit: It's pretty sad the dyno is an elemination but I can understand it if you have climbed everything else in a crag where the wall is not very high. Interesting is if "La barrière" would still be 9b without the dyno.
OffLine Franz the Stampede
  2018-10-13 19:18:28    
Thanks Yannick for making sense of this. Nice climb by Cedric.
OffLine Jan V'
  2018-10-14 10:32:35    
@Roman Batsenko "All those Pirmin's haters can eat their shoes so :)"

I am not sure. Originally Pirmin graded the route 9b, Cedric says it's 9a at most, 9a+ with the dyno. So...
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-10-14 10:40:05    
Pirmin downgraded the route to 9a+ this spring and Cedric has said he has never worked so long on a route in the 9th grade.
OffLine Jan V'
  2018-10-14 13:26:34    
@Jens even if true that doesn't exclude what I've written, so what exactly is your point?
OffLine Sebastian Peace
  2018-10-14 20:20:48    
OffLine Sebastian Peace
  2018-10-14 20:22:00    
OffLine Sebastian Peace
  2018-10-14 20:23:10    
I think the point is: nobody is a grade wizard or clairvoyant. Even downgraded to 9a+ it's a very hard and cool looking route. Routes get downgraded all the time and if you watch other strong climbers talk about first ascents you realize grading is no science that you get right all the time. (sorry for the triplepost)
OffLine Jan V'
  2018-10-15 08:25:30    
@Sebastian Peace generally I agree with your point. Anyway that was not Jens's point, whicg is clearly proved by him being silent. Every time he makes wrong step he uses this "tactics".
OffLine Jan V'
  2018-10-15 08:25:32    
@Sebastian Peace generally I agree with your point. Anyway that was not Jens's point, whicg is clearly proved by him being silent. Every time he makes wrong step he uses this "tactics".
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-10-15 08:58:56    
Pirmin originally graded it 9b. This spring he downgraded it as a 9a+ when he published the topo. In the Fanatic report, it seems like it was Cedric who proposed the downgrade which is not correct. Cedric has confirmed the 9a+ grade.