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Forum: GLOBAL / News / Chromosome X 9a by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (13) Login in to contribute
Chromosome X 9a by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (13)
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-11-09 00:00:00    
Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, who did his first 8c when he was 11 years old, has done his first 9a, Chromosome X in Charmey. "Perfect route. My beta is totally different from Pirmins."

Adam Ondra was 13 years and eight months when he did his first 9a and Illya is runner up as he was one month older. Ashima Shiraishi did her first 9a two weeks before she turned 14. More info to come!
Click to Enlarge Picture
OnLine Jaka
  2018-11-10 18:30:21    
Adam was 13 years, 9 months and 6 days old when he did Martin Krpan. So it is very close.
OnLine Jaka
  2018-11-10 18:34:30    
Illya was 13 years, 9 months and 1 day old when he did Chromosome X, so he was 5 days younger than Adam!
OnLine Jan V'
  2018-11-11 13:31:12    
@Jaka I don't think that few days are so important.
OffLine Franz the Stampede
  2018-11-11 15:10:23    
Great news, especially considering the route was considered benchmark 9a by Adam, whereas there were suggestions Martin Krpan could be a tad easier.

This said, Ilya's scorecard gives away a column, not a pyramid. From 8b+ to 9a he has only climbed one route for each grade, all in redpoint. Seems a bit of grade headline chasing to me, something I thought 8a.nu was against when it came to young climbers.

For the sake of overall performance comparison, I'm happy to dig up some OS stats of different young climbers at/by 13

Adam Ondra as a 13 yo: max OS 8b, 33% OS rate for 8a+, 60% OS rate for 8a

Mikel Linacisoro as a 13 yo: max OS 8a+, 60% OS rate for for 8a

Ilya as a 13 yo: max OS 7c+ with a 66% rate

Cameron Hörst as a 13 yo: max OS 8a, 40% OS rate for 7c+, 40% flash rate for 7c+
OnLine Jan V'
  2018-11-11 18:11:00    
Interestingly Adam didn't climb Martin Krpan back then, he climbed harder route.
OffLine Andreas Jakwerth
  2018-11-11 22:44:59    
yeah! congrats!
but dude, wild body for a 13 year old?!
OffLine Furkan Akkaya
  2018-11-12 06:22:04    
I know illya from Geyikbayiri since he was 10 and did not suprise for 9a. Nice job illya.
OnLine Christian Mengel
  2018-11-18 21:19:07    
Swiss climber Alexander Rohr has done it - he almost did it second go - and calls it soft 8c+. Just for the record and info.
OnLine Jan V'
  2018-11-19 10:12:30    
@Franz I think you are wrong, Adam Ondra never climbed Chromosome X, so he couldn!t consider that benchmark 9a route.
OnLine Jan V'
  2018-11-20 08:28:12    
@Franz no reaction Franz?
OffLine Li-How
  2018-11-23 09:03:33    
@Franz Adam called Chromosome Y soft 9a, just like Alexander, he even suggested 8c+/9a according to Fanatic Climbing. Chromosome X is supposed to be easier but Adam didn't climb it so how can that be considered benchmark by him?