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Forum: GLOBAL / News / Garnbret #1 and Noguchi #2 ahead again Login in to contribute
Garnbret #1 and Noguchi #2 ahead again
OffLine 8a.nu
  2019-04-11 00:00:00    
Excellent route setting also for the female where Janja Garnbret had a bad start on the first boulder where she got a cut and bleeding a lot. Then in normal but amazing Janja style she finished the rest in six attempts. Runner up was Akiyo Noguchi who needed three more tries. Shauna Coxey, back from some injuries, was third and as a matter of a fact, she was tied with Janja after the first three boulders. Fourth was 16 year old, Oceania Mackenzie from Australia who just did her second World Cup. Interestingly, last year she did 9.69 in Speed and in all her three Lead WC, she made semi. In other words, her is a new name with a great possibility for making it to Tokyo. (c) Eddie Fowke

1. Janja Garnbret 34 (6)
2. Akiyo Noguchi 34 (9)
3. Shauna Coxey 23
4. Oceania Mackenzie 12 (2)
5. Fanny Gibert 12 (4)
6. Petra Klingler 11
Complete results
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine JLH
  2019-04-07 09:17:58    
Coxsey, not Coxey.

It was strange to see Janja at the top of B1 doing the same mistake (bad body position/foot placement) 3 times in a row. Luckily for her, Akiyo didn't find the right beta in B2.

Live streaming took 4 hours. IFSC should do something about it, at least switch back to old format where men and women climbed at the same time.
OffLine Marcel Heemskerk
  2019-04-08 17:38:57    
i prefer this format, where men and women climb seperately. no chances that the camera misses a vital moment! i enjoyed the whole four hours :-)
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2019-04-08 18:12:18    
The problem is that most people watching it in the Olympics will think a 120 min show is boring.
OffLine JLH
  2019-04-08 20:20:41    
New results here:
https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/results#!comp=7923&cat=5

Oceania lost one zone and moved from 4th to 6th place. Strange decision, she very well controlled the zone in W3. Anyone?
OffLine Ionut Cotinghi
  2019-04-08 20:36:31    
Strange indeed. For me looks like a correct start and controlled zone. Maybe is something else.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2019-04-08 21:16:30    
That is very strange indeed. I will try to check it out.
OffLine JLH
  2019-04-08 21:28:40    
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OffLine JLH
  2019-04-08 21:29:27    
It seems she didn't "achieve a stable Controlled position with ... both feet" (rule 8.18A): video.
Anyway, terrible situation with scoreboard showed a valid zone till the end of live streaming almost an hour(!) later.
She also loose a lot of time and power for this 'useless' attempt. If judges thought this was an illegal start they should stop her immediately.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2019-04-08 22:09:58    
It was the french team that made a protest for an invoterat start. If she would have stopped trying then she would have been given at least one more try.

IFSC should change the rule so you need to make the protest directly after it happened and not after the final was finished.