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El Dorado 9a FA by Carlos Ruano (38)
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-11-06 00:00:00    
Carlos Ruano has made the FA of El Dorado 9a in La Pedriza, Spain. The 38 years old has previously done one 9a and several boulders up to 8B+. ©Talo Martin

"The start of the route is a 8A+/B boulder, then follows a 7C+ and huge 7C dyno to catch the lip and there's no rest in its 12 meters. Despite the crux is in the bottom part I fell 5 times in the last hard move. "
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine Sune Hermit
  2018-11-06 10:29:29    
Nalle would consider that a boulder.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-11-06 10:56:24    
I am sure he would not. It would be quite stupid to try to boulder a 12 meter route with a big dyno to the top, especially since the angle of the ground will increase the fall.
OffLine Jason Crank
  2018-11-06 17:13:55    
Reminds me of a taller version of "The Fly" at Rumney. How many bolts were there? How many pre-clipped? Excellent work on a beautiful line Carlos! I'm glad to see a few more short punchy routes going up.
OffLine Perico Palotes
  2018-11-07 13:03:55    
Action Directe is also a 12m route. Would also Nalle consider it as a boulder?
OffLine Carlos Ruano
  2018-11-07 17:44:23    
claro es corta!!yo estoy encantado de portear a todo el que quiera intentarla con colchoneta!!la caida puede ser de unos 30 metros...
OffLine Robert Kasper
  2018-11-07 18:51:42    
a boulder? good luck with this one

Carlos has a short video in his insta. Looks very cool, sadly the drone was to far away and not on point. Would be very nice to see a close up vid.

Carlos?
OffLine Carlos Ruano
  2018-11-07 19:27:33    
si esta en proceso!!
OffLine zapfenwolfi
  2018-11-08 10:44:05    
about that Video on instagramm:
cool line, cool scenery, cool Video

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bpxc5iYhCI8/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=embed_video_watch_again
OffLine Sune Hermit
  2018-11-08 13:41:12    
Google highball bouldering and you will find examples where boulders looks to be higher than what the image in the header shows. But, maybe, the landing is worse, I'll give you that. Anyways, congrats with the send. Predriza is a wonderful place.

Two examples:
https://www.8a.nu/images/forum/9099_636772811066534661_Highball2.PNG
https://www.8a.nu/images/forum/9099_636772812289305014_Ambrosia.PNG

One last remark: It seems the photographer has tilted the camera to make the route appear steeper than it is. Look at the belayer. One would suppose he would be standing vertically, not tilted sideways. Shown correctly, with the belayer vertical, the landing also appears to be flatter than what is shown in the heading picture.
OffLine Perico Palotes
  2018-11-08 14:34:57    
As for one of your examples: Ambrosia (which turns out to be a paradigmatic highball) is V11, with 5.13 climbing and some good rests from the bouldery bottom to the top, according to Kevin Jorgeson.

El Dorado seems to be V12-V13 at the very start, followed by 5.13 climbing and then V10-V11 at the top, with NO RESTS, and a 30m potential fall.

Sorry, but I don't feel like you can compare...
OffLine Sebastian Peace
  2018-11-08 15:04:21    
Even if somebody calls this route a boulder you can't blame Carlos / the bolter for trying to be safe. I'd rather go with "bad style" - which this isn't imho - than a severe injury or death. There is a reason some highballs are also called deathballs.
OffLine Robert Kasper
  2018-11-08 17:59:01    
Yes, wach the Video. I want to See this beeing done Solo. Easily the boldest, deadliest Solo ever. Good luck with jump at the End
OffLine Carlos Ruano
  2018-11-08 18:57:26    
lo bueno de este juego es que cualquiera puede probar la ruta,en cuanto a hacerlo sin cuerda..esa puede ser su ultima escalada..yo he escalado muchas rocas altas y aquí ni se me pasa ni por la cabeza..el que cuestiona este tema es por que no conoce el emplazamiento de la via..