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Forum: GLOBAL / News / Digiulian and Marin make first repeat of 8c MP in Madagascar Login in to contribute
Digiulian and Marin make first repeat of 8c MP in Madagascar
OffLine 8a.nu
  2017-08-09 00:00:00    
Sasha Digulian and Edu Marin, some of the best multi-discipline climbers in the world, have made the first repeat of Adam Ondra's 700 metres Mora Mora 8c in Madagascar. Full story including more great pics by Francois Lebeau.

Sasha: I am excited to have arrived at a point in my fitness that I could send my hardest big wall climb yet! We each sent every pitch from the ground up and both lead the Crux.

Edu: It has been a tremendous challenge with a very technical style and really small holds. One of the most incredible and beautiful experiences of the last years.
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine Emanuele Pellizzari
  2017-08-10 07:30:15    
Worth mentioning that Mora Mora is not Ondra's route. Ondra did the first free ascent. Mora Mora is in fact a route of 1999 by Francisco Blanco and Toti Valés, opened ground up. Try to do 700 meters with a drill on your neck, and then you see the difference.
OffLine kilian kolb
  2017-08-10 09:00:27    
"The 700m line now goes free at 8c, possibly slightly easier, and Ondra estimates the individual pitches as follows: P1 6a+, P2 6b, P3 7b, P4 7b+, P5 7b+, P6 7c+/8a, P7 8b+/8c, P8 6c+, P9 7a+, P10 7c+, P11 7b+, P12 4." says the article at planetmountain.com about the first free ascent of ondra. So i would say almost 9a...
OnLine Franz the Stampede
  2017-08-10 12:40:22    
17 year old Adam Ondra worked the pitches for one day only, before his First Free Ascent, which was also done in a single push in a single day.

He had already got acquainted with the rock by climbing Tough Enough (flashing pitches up to 8b+, not needing anything more than a 2nd go in the worst case) and Tough Enough Original (8th pitch goes 8c instead of 8b+).

It's good that climbers such as Sasha and Edu tackle these multipitch climbs and it's genuinely scary to look back at what Adam had done at such a young age in a multipitch environment he wasn't too acquainted with. His trip to Madagascar is one of his most overlooked and underrated achievements.