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Forum: GLOBAL / News / Conner Herson (15) does The Nose 8b+ Login in to contribute
Conner Herson (15) does The Nose 8b+
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-11-21 00:00:00    
Connor Herson (15) has done the sixth ascent of Lynn Hill classic almost 1 000 meters The Nose 8b+ in Yosemite (originally graded 8a back in 1993). Being 13 years old he French freed it during a day and last year Connor did 15 routes 8b+ and harder including one 8c+ second go. The two last years he has been Top-11 in the Youth World Championship. Old 8a interview.

"The Nose is a very interesting route to me; it only has about 20 feet of really hard climbing in the changing corners pitch, as well as a few other pitches of still hard but slightly easier climbing. I'm definitely so psyched to have done it! In total, it was my sixteenth day working on freeing the route (10 days either rapping in to changing corners or climbing up to the great roof, as well as 2 three-day pushes), and those were mostly weekends or school holidays.

Last weekend, my dad and I went up to get our systems dialed and try the route (it was my first multi-day bigwall), and I surprised myself my sending the great roof and coming very close on changing corners. We decided to go up again this weekend when the weather forecast over Thanksgiving looked bad and school was cancelled due to poor air quality last Friday. I definitely wasn't expecting to send, but I did everything up to changing corners without falling and, to my surprise, sent changing corners on my fourth try! I still can't believe it!"


(c) Jim Herson who also belayed him and comments.
"The breakthrough of his ascent is not so much his young age but how quickly he put it together without using fixed ropes. El Cap is overrun with climbers these days. Fixed ropes on El Cap's popular routes are untenable. I'm most proud that he was able free El Cap without using fixed ropes and interfering with other climbers. And most importantly, he freed the Nose without missing a day of school!"
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine zapfenwolfi
  2018-11-21 19:40:31    
His father Jim Herson:

absolute Master in Big wall, understatement and writing skills
example:
Free Salathe (must read this):
http://www.jimherson.com/climbing/tr/salathe-free.html
OffLine Sebastian Peace
  2018-11-21 20:29:11    
Thanks, nice read! Also related and a very nice read: El Capitan's Nose Climbed Free by Lynn Hill
Congratulations Connor, great achievement!
OffLine zapfenwolfi
  2018-11-22 00:56:15    
many thánks for the link
a little bit off topic (to the Nose), but another great (and new) reading with strong connection to early free big wall climbing
https://rockandice.com/snowball/the-renegade-todd-skinner/
OnLine Henning Wang
  2018-11-22 12:40:40    
Lynn Hill did the first free ascent, not the first ascent.. calling the Nose Lynn Hills route is just wrong on so many levels..
OffLine Sebastian Peace
  2018-11-22 14:56:48    
You are right Henning but with the addition of "The Nose 8b+" it is not really wrong, is it?
OffLine Jason Crank
  2018-11-22 18:15:28    
Connors ascent was also just after another successful Nose attempt; Keita Kurakami who has previously lead all the pitches linked them in real ground up single push style, and did it all rope solo!
https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/keita-kurakami-makes-first-all-free-rope-solo-and-fifth-free-overall-ascent-of-the-nose/
OnLine Henning Wang
  2018-11-22 23:39:00    
@Sebastian depends on your perspective I guess. The problem, as always, is the lack of understanding/language skills from who ever writes these things.
At no point is free ascent mentioned here, it is just assumed. Instead the most famous and most climbed bigwall route in the world is suddenly acredited to Lynn Hill and only has six ascents... That is just plain wrong, both to the guys that actually did it first, and to everyone else that drag them self up there..