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Climbing ethics based on a traffic light system
OffLine 8a.nu
  2019-03-13 00:00:00    
"In sport climbing, compared to most other sports, there are few written rules or use of referees. Instead, the climbing community creates and circulates their own Practice & Ethics. Beginners are sometimes struggling to understand what is "normal" behavior and what's allowed and what's not. Over time, the general procedure has been modified and in different subcultures different ethics apply."

8a first presented climbing ethics in 2003 and we used a traffic light visualization in order to say that there is no absolute strict rules. Here you have the full chart and article. Do you agree with the presented ethics?
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine Louis Jones
  2019-03-13 13:35:20    
what if I downclimb but the hold is only slightly wet?
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2019-03-13 13:42:19    
This is why we suggest no strict rules but instead also include a "yellow" card and then you can decide by yourself :)
OffLine M .
  2019-03-14 05:46:30    
In "Training Manual for Competition Climber" Michael Doyle wrote:



"A good tip is to use the rope itself to take the weight off your hands. If it is possible to make a clip above you and downclimb to the rest without too much diffculty then you should do this. Once the rope is clipped above you and you are back in the resting position try and weight the rope a little. The weight of the rope and rope drag going down to your belayer should be able to take some weight off of your arms. As you shift between hands you may need to shift your hips higher every time and then sit back down on the rope."



What do you think on this?
OffLine Alan Little
  2019-03-14 08:07:57    
Well, the fact that there's a couple of kilos of rope counterbalancing you in that situation is unavoidable. Any actual tension from the belayer would be blatant cheating though.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2019-03-14 08:39:08    
If you are in an overhang, i do not think this will help you at all. In any case, if there is rope drag in the system and done on purpose systematically I would consider it as a red Flag cheating.

In normal cases without rope drag, the effect is not at all a kg I think so it can be ignored. So for me he talks rope drag and cheating.