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Almost everyone thinks they have great technique
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-12-14 00:00:00    
For the third time, we have run the Poll, "What skill do you lack the most?". As for the 2013, 2015 and 2018 poll, only some 8 % pick Technique. In practice, the results have been more or less the same, beside the 2015 poll, where Finger strength got 31 %, instead of 26 % in both 2013 and 2018. Further more, Flexibility have increased in importance during the three polls and is now ranked #3.

As Flexibility is kind of easy to improve and is something you can train back home, this increase is kind of strange. Possibly it relates to the frequently published pics of celebs like Adam Ondra in extreme positions. One of his trainers Klaus Isele has previously on 8a said;

"What I still monitor is that some climbers believe that it is enough to stretch for 40 seconds in order to get “longer” = forget it. You need to hold a stretching position for two minutes (I often recommend three times the same position with that holding time). That works! To really gain length you have to repeat it every day. Your results will be visible after approximately 14 days."
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine Philippe Vaucher
  2018-12-14 11:29:35    
The problem is that it's hard to realise that you lack technique... while it's easy to realise you lack strength or endurance.
OffLine olmin
  2018-12-14 13:46:58    
so from the question "which skill do you lack more"... If I answer "flexibility".. does this imply I think I have "great technique"?? XD
OffLine Tanner Rozier
  2018-12-14 17:30:25    
I think it would be better phrased as: most people do not make improving technique a priority or something. But just because they chose something else doesn't mean they think they have great technique haha
OffLine louis de cornulier
  2018-12-16 00:39:40    
Also, how do you define technique? I feel it encapsulates several different skills such as the ability to read a climb, your knowledge of a large number of moves, but also your footwork, your capacity for resting while climbing, your ability to master dynamic and static moves, to name a few.
I feel my main weaknesses are resistance to pain (crimping), flexibility and the inability to commit to the move beyond a certain height.