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Forum: GLOBAL / News / Adam Ondra very close on La Dura Dura Login in to contribute
Adam Ondra very close on La Dura Dura
OffLine 8a.nu
  2013-01-29 00:00:00    
Today, Adam Ondra fell on the last move on the last crux half way up on the 50 m La Dura Dura. "He screamed as usual but you could here he was pleased, excited and very confident. Today was kind of shitty conditions. He dominated Oliana today and for sure he will send it this weekend with better conditions. It was so cool...", says a very impressed fan.

But he needs to do it fast as Chris Sharma who bolted it has also made nice progress passing the first part... "The bottom is like a series of really specific moves and really fucked up climbing on bullshit holds....", continues the fan. Ondra has said that possibly it is even harder than The Change, 9b+ and this is his fifth trip only dedicated to it. (c) Bernando Giminez
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine _
  2013-01-29 22:41:10    
Somebody give "the fan" a job in print. His/her descriptive abilities are unparalleled. I'm only half kidding, I actually kind of like his/her description of the route.
OffLine Iggi Moore
  2013-01-29 23:11:56    
I hope Sharma does it first! 
OffLine Christian Stohr
  2013-01-29 23:21:54    
It would be nice to see Chris Sharma climb it, agreed :)
OffLine Mateusz Chrzęst
  2013-01-30 00:59:57    
I strongly believe that "the fan" must be from Poland
OffLine John Meget
  2013-01-30 05:44:41    
Adam fell half way up. Is the 2nd half so much easier, it's a sure thing he will finish the route, once he gets to it?
OffLine Darta
  2013-01-30 11:13:58    
I don't like this way of putting pressure on the climber and creating pointless expectations in the climbing community. Let him do the route and then make the news.
OffLine Franz the Stampede
  2013-01-30 12:52:13    
I really liked the "really fucked up climbing on bullshit holds" description! after having seen RR7, it does seem like the route does not have the most beautiful movements. I can imagine both Chris and Adam being keen on getting it done and moving on to something else. John, there might be significant rests like it was for Chaxi Raxi.
OffLine Sune Hermit
  2013-01-30 14:34:47    
Ha ha - interesting news "Someone almost climbed a route" :-) Since when is that news?
OffLine Sascha Gierlings
  2013-01-30 14:37:53    
Considering the fact that by a pretty high probability we're talking about the hardest route on the planet... well... I consider that news... Cheers, Sascha
OffLine joar hofgaard
  2013-01-30 15:08:42    
It is awesome to be able to follow the process! Specially on such monumental projects like La Dura Dura, The Change or Tommy Caldwells Dawn Wall project.  Really nice quoting:" The bottom is like a series of really specific moves and really fucked up climbing on bullshit holds..." Well that is surely is a sentence that says a lot! Worth remembering! Probs to mr. Giminez 
OffLine Christian Stohr
  2013-01-30 15:09:04    
Change was a big deal long before it's first ascent, too.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2013-01-30 15:33:25    
Thanks...we will hopefully be able to continue with upgrades on the race :)
OffLine Primoz Zupancic
  2013-01-30 17:30:45    
How's Iker Pou doing in Buoux? That'd make interesting news as well ;)
OnLine Marco Troussier
  2013-01-30 19:10:15    
Concerning Buoux and "The Bombé bleu", Iker Pou did not come back for the moment. So this "problem"  is still a "project" to solve. According to Iker (but remember he tried it very few time because of relativ high temperature) the route should be on the 9A+ range....more or less. It need to be try by more people.. 
OnLine Marco Troussier
  2013-01-31 11:44:54    
Better english! Concerning Buoux and "The Bombé bleu", Iker Pou did not come back for the
moment. So this "problem"  is still a "project" to solve. According to Iker (but
remember he tried it very few time s because of relativ ely high
temperature) the route should be in the 9 a + range....more or less. It
need to be tr ied by more people.
OffLine Primoz Zupancic
  2013-01-31 12:32:51    
Marco, thanks a lot!
OnLine Rances Rodriguez
  2013-01-31 19:01:08    
I think writing articles like this that update us on climber's progress on projects is excellent news. With such hard projects like this and Mescalito, that don't go down eveyday, it is nice to know how the work is coming along instead of waiting years then one day reading, "such and such route was redpointed." Before Sharma sent FRFM, it was good having videos and articles showing his progress on it. More articles like this wanted.
OnLine pbla4024
  2013-01-31 19:26:17    
I was under impression that Quentin Chastagnier was trying Le Bombé Bleu.
OffLine Tomasz Wojtkowiak
  2013-02-01 02:26:37    
Here is video of the attempt. https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=QKkP-kxlthQ#!
OffLine jarvoramas
  2013-02-01 02:49:17    
Thanks Tomasz .
OffLine Franz the Stampede
  2013-02-01 10:21:04    
Thanks for the upload, really good quality and I like "neutral angle", plus the irony of having it uploaded on a website called "easy climbing" :D Do you happen to know if the guy on the ropes in the red jacket is Bernardo Gimenez?
OffLine Simon Fonn Storevik
  2013-02-01 13:50:03    
It says the video is private... How  does one get to watch it?
OffLine Tomasz Wojtkowiak
  2013-02-01 14:10:09    
It is not my video, I found it online and simply posted the link. The video went private for me too right now.
OffLine Joël Hutter
  2013-02-02 15:45:16    
One does not simply watch this video.
OffLine simone gennai
  2013-02-02 20:06:19    
... while going to mordor
OffLine simone gennai
  2013-02-02 20:06:45    
... while going to mordor
OffLine simone gennai
  2013-02-02 20:06:46    
... while going to mordor
OffLine Christian Stohr
  2013-02-03 11:29:58    
But wifi in mordor isnt free!
OnLine David Aran
  2013-02-03 13:19:04    
@ pbla4024 : I heard that Quentin is currently in Aistralia. Btw, where can I find footage about Iker in Buoux? Any news, pics...?
OffLine Henning Wang
  2013-02-04 13:59:03    
I agree, this is news and in a way more exiting then just being told someone has done something. We are after all talking about the contender to the hardest route in the world and sports climbing history in the making.  @John: Adam fell half way up. Is the 2nd half so much easier, it's a sure thing he will finish the route, once he gets to it?@Franz: John, there might be significant rests like it was for Chaxi Raxi. To answer your questions, it´s not. After the very hard start there is a fairly big but sloping hold one can shake out on slightly, but there are no ledges or jugs. From this big hueco hold at maybe 12-14 meters up it´s about 8c+ to the top. There is however a really weird sideways dyno move crux not far after the hueco hold where you have to almost jump a bit sideways and hit this shoulder slot perfectly, similar to the stab move to the slot on Golpe that Adam felt he had 50% chance to hit, just harder and with a added swing. I am guessing this is where he fell. After this it´s still delicate but not so hard the last 25-30 meters. If Adam or Chris gets up there and it´s not wet or a hold breaks there is definitely a good chance. With that in mind I would say that based on this news he/they are getting very close  indeed.
OffLine Sascha Gierlings
  2013-02-04 14:39:07    
Luckily, I had the chance to watch the video one time before it went private (what a pity): What I can report from that is, he even sticked the 4-points off dyno (really crazy) pretty high up and fell a couple of moves further. Interestingly enough, the section RR7 was about seems not more than 20% of the overall route. It'll be interesting how Adam and Chris grade the first crux part in terms of bouldering grades. It just looks incredibly hard, plus two of the (if not the) best climbers in the world (who both climb in a very different style) have a really hard time climbing that thing. Looking forward to hear the news of a frist ascent. Cheers, Sascha
OffLine Atious
  2013-02-04 15:01:07    
Thank you for the info, Sascha & Henning.
OffLine Daniel Bähring
  2013-02-04 15:07:08    
I saw the video before it was removed: Adam fell after the second dyno on a long move where he was pretty stretched out. He reached the next hold but couldn't hold onto it and fell. He looked really solid up to this point. It's only a matter of tries now. Back to back sends of Chris and Adam would be cool!
OffLine Qeedo Pinta
  2013-02-04 15:16:38    
I can confirm all above + I heard (after his fall) he complained to wet holds...
OffLine Daniel Bähring
  2013-02-04 15:19:05    
I'm not entirely sure but I think he fell on this move (Reel Rock 7 @ 11:42min)
OffLine Daniel Bähring
  2013-02-04 15:19:50    
OffLine Sascha Gierlings
  2013-02-04 18:34:24    
@Danial: I don't think that's right. This is still two or three moves before the first crux (if one doesn't consider the first 15m of the route as a continuos crux sequence). With first crux, I consider the long shoulder move to a small ledge to the right. The best try, Adam made in RR7, he first time sticked that move ground up and fell a couple of moves further. In the video (at least the one I watched last week) he's been way higher up - I guess about 35 to 40m (I have to guess, since I just saw it one time). I still remember that watching it, I thought like "wow, RR7 was just about the first 15m and that was so hard already". Cheers, Sascha
OffLine Daniel Bähring
  2013-02-04 20:41:13    
I'm quite sure the move on the screenshot is above the first crux (insane shoulder move). When you see them fall from this move they are already fairly high on the route. While RR7 is mostly about the really hard lower part of La Dura Dura there are actually some shots of the upper section. I'm just not sure if this is above or below the second dyno but it looks pretty similar to the move Adam fell on in the new video (which is now private..). But you are right, Adam got really far on the route and after he did the second dyno (that was one wild jump!) I thought he's gonna do it! 
OffLine Sascha Gierlings
  2013-02-04 21:58:03    
@Daniel: Checked it again in the movie. The insane shoulder move (very appropriate expression btw.) is between 5th and 6th bolt. The move, where he fell in the (screenshot) and the first dyno (shown in RR7) are both higher up. It's difficult to tell just from the footage, since the perspective is sometimes confusing, plus the belayer in most cases is not visible. Anyway, the crazy (other) dyno in the private video was not in RR7... and that would've been great footage for that movie... and be part of it, if available at that time. Silly talks for a 7b climber (which I am) :-( Good luck and keep motivation, Adam and Chris! Cheers, Sascha
OffLine Daniel Bähring
  2013-02-04 22:42:30    
Sascha, the second dyno is in the movie! At least we see Chris doing the jump right after the bad kneebar rest at 15:25min. But you are right.. enough with the speculation.. Venga Bichos!! Just hojer it ;-) If anyone hasn't seen ReelRock7 yet, be sure to check it out, you are gonna be psyched! ;-)  http://www.senderfilms.com/dvds-downloads.php
OffLine Dylan Colon
  2013-02-04 23:18:18    
The video released to youtube (link below) last fall as the teaser to Reel Rock 7 shows the sequence where Adam fell in the (now) private video, which I watched a couple of times.  The crazy dyno discussed above comes at 1:15.   I'm pretty sure Adam falls on the same move in this video (at time 1:47) as he did in the private video.  I did watch both videos to compare when they were both public, and I'm fairly certain they show the same sequence and fall.  The Reel Rock excerpt I've linked to must be of Adam starting this section from a rest on the rope, as he had obviously not linked beyond the "crazy shoulder move" at the time of the filming last year. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=stQhEZn4RE0