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Action Directe by Gabriele Moroni
OffLine 8a.nu
  2010-04-17 00:00:00    
Gabriele Moroni has done Action Directe, 9a in Frankenjura which was set up by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991, who actually invented the campus board in order to succeed. wikipedia including the previous 11 ascents info. Originally Wolfgang suggested XI = hard 8c+ for the 11 - 16 move shallow finger pocket route. Gabriele is #3 in the combined ranking game.
OffLine Jérôme De Boeck
  2010-04-18 00:39:32    
watch out, Jens is there to correct the grade inflation problem with the original supposed 11 (between 8c+ and 9a), of course, the number is there, it's the grade exacty 11 so on the scale, bad luck it's hard 8c+ from what I remeber reading, nobody who did the route suggested hard 8c+ or even easy 9a... you're always criticizing grade inflations but even when there is no problem you're pointing one out and just feed this grade inflation problem of yours
OffLine Christian Mengel
  2010-04-18 09:35:01    
including Adam, who only commented..."the masterpiece"...so why speculate btw that 8c+ is XI? okay, that´s because you probably don´t like the slashgrade XI-/XI but that´s how it has been...
OffLine Kalle Hämäläinen
  2010-04-18 11:04:16    
At 8A database there is 10 ascents. Everyone tick Action directe as 9a. It's not just Jens who think that the grade should be 9a.
OffLine Majkel
  2010-04-18 12:10:00    
I have to add that it was a long war for Gabriele.I've seen him on it in 2008 and he managed to do it in two sequences.Actually i assume it is more a high end 9a.Only the cream of the crop among the climbers manage to ascent this classic route and many great climbers have to suffer defeat. Gabriele should be considered one of the top boulderers in the world(Mandala sit,Dreamtime,world cup podium appearance etc.) and yet he worked on his asent for a couple of years when there are 9a's made by (assumingly) weaker climbers dispatched in a couple of sessions or even tries. It is the most special and unique among the hardest routes put up ever.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2010-04-18 15:10:56    
I have NOT said given any personal opinion regarding the grade of Action Directe. If I have to, I consider it as a 9a. I find it strange that people like Jérôme criticize. It must be a miss-understanding once more. However, when it comes to grade inflation, 8a is the only media who is fighting it and of course we do get criticized also for this.
OffLine sidney shaw
  2010-04-18 15:56:35    
Good job Grabriele!  btw I was surprised I did not find in the news 8a was the first media who decided to upgrade AD to 9a.. EDIT: weren't the English who invented the campus board and then Gullich brought it to the continent?
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2010-04-18 16:25:14    
Here you have the Björn Pohl article declaring Action Directe to 9a in 2001. Björn Pohl: " In this sense, Jens is correct in saying 8a.nu was one of the first to declare Action Directe 9a."
OffLine Vnz Scamp
  2010-04-18 16:30:36    
Who cares about an article of 2001 nice job of Gabriele guy And Jens can you maybe delete the account of Wolfgang Gullich looks a little bit stupid. Have a nice day guys keep on going the funny discussions here. 8a brings a smile on my face everyday. Cheers
OffLine Jérôme De Boeck
  2010-04-18 17:00:39    
Nop, no misunderstanding, I saw you didn't give personal opinion, but still I don't get the point in mentionning AD was 8c+ at first. It's just the no consistency factor that I probably don't understand correctly on this website as probably hunders of your daily visitors, but this is just a personal opinion...
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2010-04-18 17:30:22    
The Wolfgang Güllich account was started by Björn Pohl. It might be that that article which was published on the Edge is one reason for the grade inflation.
OffLine Jérôme De Boeck
  2010-04-18 17:49:10    
And there we go, in the end you do mention a hypothetic grade inflation problem that would have started from AD as I was talking about, and the bad reference would be a Bjorn Pohl article again...
OffLine Federico Oggioni
  2010-04-19 00:53:32    
Well done Gabriele!!
OffLine Vnz Scamp
  2010-04-19 09:07:49    
"The Wolfgang Güllich account was started by Björn Pohl. It might be that that article which was published on the Edge is one reason for the grade inflation." Ah If Bjorn did it it's ok. Is this Guy God or what that he can put a dead legend in your stupid database. Wolfgang Güllich is God , not the Björn dude. Greetz Vince
OffLine Pano .
  2010-04-20 13:32:41    
I have to apluad Jens for his patience. if i was him i would simply delete all this morons from my website.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2010-04-20 14:01:14    
Thanks...I guess I have been insulted with offensive words several hundred times here in the forum. I have never responded in the same way. I always try to discuss the subject but it seems like some are more interested to just say negative words about me. We have been growing dramatically for ten years so I take that as a guarantee that most like what I am doing most of the time :-)
OffLine grubber
  2010-04-20 14:13:31    
but not here, so stop whining. you always try to not discuss the subject, but that might just be my opinion. yeah, and most people liked the twin tower attacks, that's why they watched CNN. (yes, Godwin's law, I know).
OffLine Sakari McGregor
  2010-04-20 21:47:52    
@Jens, yeah you have never said anything negative about anybody...NEVER... Not even about the dude who owns UKC or Björn Pohl. @Grubber, thanks for giving me a laugh with you're CNN comment. :D
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2010-04-20 22:11:11    
I have never insulted anybody using bad words. Regarding UKC, they started a big personal attack on me when they published a picture of me saying that I was messing with the E-grade. Regarding Björn Pohl, he runs an 8a boycott campaign on facebook.  I think what they have done with these actions is very bad. I have never done something similar. Note, that the personal attacks by UKC and Björn Pohl came without any prior notice. I have also asked both of them to stop with these personal attacks without any answer.  I think these two examples are the two worst examples of bad behavior on the internet I have ever seen. It is a shame that you can do something like this and it is a shame that somebody can support it. I have and will never do anything similar even if I will get provoked by something like this. 
OffLine Rolf
  2010-04-21 10:10:44    
My respect to Gabriele for sending this Frankenjura classic. It is an amazing and beautiful line, I stood below it many times. I had my bets on another climber for the next ascent of Action Direct, but this is a nice surprise!
OffLine Jérôme De Boeck
  2010-04-21 12:04:28    
Bjorn has a boycott 8a.nu campaign on facebook ?? Well I really wonder why, he probably started that just for fun wihout reasons... Same thing with UKC, they are for sure going to take the risk of attacking you and get a negative image probably with no reason. Only thing I know is when you talk to webmasters of other climbing websites, 80% of them have personal issues with you, so either they are all idiots, either you have a problem...
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2010-04-21 14:52:56    
I have done nothing similar to what UKC or Björn Pohl have done. They have started something and I have not even responded in the same way. I mean, what would be the reaction from you and others if I publish a portrait picture of Mick Ryan or Björn Pohl in the news and then publishing a negative article abou them. This is what UKC did and even if I did ask them to remove the picture they did not care. What would be the reaction from you and others if I did run a Björn Pohl boycott campaign on facebook? (Some friends have suggested this but I must say that this is really poor...in fact the worst thing I have been involved in on the internet.) Do you think what they have done to me is OK? Björn Pohl did send me a mail several months later explaining why. He says that 8a has became to big and that it is not correct of me to express my personal opinions in the news. I stopped doing this several months ago and lately all my personal opinions are published in a separate column. If you read any sport section in a news paper, 50 - 80 % of the articles are written with personal opinions and signed. Why can I not do that in maybe 20-30 % of the cases? UKC and Björn Pohl have done some really bad things on internet and I have not even defended myself properly. Think about that before and compare our actions before you come to any conclusion.
OffLine sidney shaw
  2010-04-21 15:18:03    
how come did we start talking about AD and we ended up talking about Jens' Enduring Freedom battle? Anyway I got curious and went on UKC, I think I found the article you mention Jens, ok it was not the nicest neutral article ever but from what I read it seems they reacted to your previous attempts of finding the Grand Unification Theory of all grades in order to fit to your score system.. Besides, you keep saying you did not respond with insults etc, ok fair enough, but since you are an editor and you write news and articles etc, you should very well know that you can attack and be offensive even without using dirty words.. this is why you got all those critics about putting comments in news right? Finally: "If you read any sport section in a news paper, 50 - 80 % of the articles are written with personal opinions and signed"What newspapers do you read Jens?
OffLine Michael Ryan
  2010-04-21 15:32:04    
You are just too darn cute for your own knickers Jens. By the way, just watched Crackoholic. A great climbing film about Bohusian. Some great climbing characters in there, including our nearest and dearest playing the part of a grid-bolting villian. Anyways, here is our tongue-in-cheek news report about Jens: not only does he not get the E-grade system but also trips up at with our whacky humour. A Swede and a Yank Start Messin' With Our E - grade by  Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com  Oct/2008  This news story has been read 25,363 times Jens Larssen, the founder of the climbing website that ranks climbing achievement and puts everyone and the routes they have climbed into an orderly list has started messin' with the British E- grading system, despite having little knowledge or experience of it. 8a.nu  is a climbing web phenomenon  and attracts those climbers who like to log their climbing achievements, like train spotters but with a difference. Rather than a little dog-eared book to record your ticks, climbers can log their routes climbed in the public domain for all to view and comment on:  UKClimbing.com  has a similar system. At 8a.nu the twist is that you are then ranked in order of your achievements - like a climbing equivalent of a football league table. Good viewing for the punters and the pros who like to know who the supposed top dog is, but as some have criticised, 8a.nu is open to all kinds of abuse. However, whilst the easily understood and universal bouldering grades, Font or V - grades, the two global standards, and the ubiquitous French grade, which synchs perfectly with the American YDS sport scale, all fit well into the  8a.nu  system and make for easy calculations, there is a big snag; there's a bad girl in town and she isn't behaving as she should - our very own, complex and enigmatic E- grade system. UK climbers have a special bond with the E -grade , even if you don't climb at that level, it is a relationship that goes far beyond marriage, it's a match made in heaven;  the E-grade is The One ; our off-the-wall personalities matched with an off-beat grading system; Jens and  8a.nu  to the rescue.  Whilst there are numerous grade tables that compare global grading systems - most offer a disclaimer that they are only rough guides - perfect linear conversions are not possible for a variety of reasons, not least the complexity of the British E system, it has at least 3 components, but also variations in local grading systems - for example Switzerland bouldering grades are considered soft compared to other areas - but that hasn't stopped Jens making a stab at it in another  8a.nu   'innovation!' Jens has produced another comparison grade table just like the rest  (8a.nu Table here)  and as normal he is under the misapprehension that the E component compares directly to a French sport grade. Jens, it doesn't.  You have to factor in the technical grade and the gear, or lack of it, which can make an E10 physically easier than an E9 or E8 but bolder. Further, Jens has invented even more notation for when UK routes are reported on  8a.nu  , so we have  Rhapsody , 8c+S (E11 7a); French grade first, cheeky bastard; then S for serious: full notation is:  8aT = trad ascent, S = serious, R = Risky, X = Death . Who does he think he is? Adam Wainwright! To add insult to injury, and there is a lot of that flying about, Kevin Jorgeson   (kevinjorgeson.com) , one of a team of American climbers who are making short work of the UK's hardest grit routes, in a response to James Pearson's response to Kevin's explanation of his downgrading of  The Promise , it has slipped two E grades from E10 to E8, has now stated an oft-repeated pronouncement that an E grade of route can change depending on the experience of a climber on that route. So  The Promise  is E8 for Kevin Jorgeson and E10 for James Pearson. ... and that's without even mentioning the difference between an onsight ascent and a headpoint, practised ascent. Add that variable into your bloody grading table Jens Larssen.  http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=45415
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2010-04-21 16:01:43    
It should be noted that they have now replaced my portrait picture with a screen shoot picture of 8a.nu. I did right in the beginning ask them in two separately mails to remove the picture of me but they refused. It is interesting that they now must have come to the conclusion that to publish a portrait picture of me was a bit over the line. However, when the article was read 20 000 times or so, they used my portrait picture together with the headline. I would never do something like this. I have three questions to Mick? 1. Why did you publish my portrait picture? 2. Why did you not take it away when I asked you? 3. Why did you take it away long time after?
OffLine Michael Ryan
  2010-04-21 16:20:16    
>  1. Why did you publish my portrait picture? Because you are a beautiful man and your fans (both male and female) demanded it. You are bigger than Chris Sharma or Dani Androgynous.  You have a following Jens, globally. It is good to see the face behind the everpulsating brain behind the biggest climbing website in the Universe. You cannot hide from your global celebrity Jens.  People want an insight into Jens the person. What car do you own? (I see you have 8a.nu on your plates NICE) What is your favourite cheese? Where are your favourite beaches, crags Which gym to you work out in? What book are you reading at the moment? What's on your iPod? What's your favourite computer game? What time do you get up in the morning? Are you married? Do you have a boyfriend or girlfriend? What jeans do you wear? What's in Jen's future? What is Jen's past? Maybe you should be interviewed? Best regards, Mick
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2010-04-21 16:45:13    
Please respond to question number 2 & 3. And please also answer, why you did not allow me to comment on your negative article before it was published. There are many things totally wrong. When I told you this, you simply said that I can make a comment! When you have answered these questions I will answer any question from you for an interview :-)
OffLine Michael Ryan
  2010-04-21 16:56:28    
Tell you what. I'll throw a question at you. You answer it, then ask me a question, and I'll answer it. OK, me first. What's your favourite cheese?
OffLine Michael Ryan
  2010-04-21 16:57:29    
Or if you want, you can start a new thread. You decide.
OffLine Steve Juhasz
  2010-04-21 20:51:44    
oh you kids... Hey have either of you guys ever heard the expression, " Never argue with an idiot, for someone looking on, its impossible to tell which of you is the idiot."
OffLine jaap
  2010-04-21 21:12:21    
@ steve: most of us are looking on and it's pretty hilarious, so please let them continue! ;)
OffLine User Deactivated
  2010-04-22 22:56:35    
Hey Mick, I just love your humor! Very relaxing, reading 8a often enough to ensure even more new records has become so stressing for me. It's a pity we don't see more posts by you... But, what makes me really sad, why you don't let us know _your_ favorite cheese?