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Action Directe 9a by Stefan Scarperi
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-11-02 00:00:00    
Stefan Scarperi has done the 24th ascent of Wolfgang Gullich’s classic from 1991, Action Directe in Frankenjura after six days of working it during the last two years.

It is just amazing and Wolfgang did it the same year when I was born.
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine Krzysztof Krzyzanowski
  2018-11-02 18:33:01    
Great job!!! By the way, it seems that someone who wrote that news didn't count the ascent made by Said Belhaj (8a didn't report it, but he sent AD few days ago).
OffLine Frank Grabo
  2018-11-02 20:19:59    
look 5 post under this one ;)
@scaperi: congratulations
OffLine rai
  2018-11-03 21:11:27    
OffLine Guido Princess
  2018-11-04 12:23:41    
With so many people are doing Action Directe this year, I think we can all agree that its now more like 8c+ compared to Era Vella (9a)!
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-11-04 12:44:16    
During the last four years it has been down two times every year.

I think Era Vella got some five repeats every year until 2015 when I said it should be down graded. Since then and several climbers agreed upon this, it has during the last three years only been repeated one time every year :)

The quality of a route is important but it seems how soft a route is, is at least equally important :)
OffLine Guido Princess
  2018-11-04 14:29:21    
Of course short routes like Action Directe 9a(8c+) are becoming easier than longer ones like Era Vella (9a). Since grades are the number one criteria for reporting in the media, I think it is time to stop reporting Action Directe ascents and focus on the longer, harder routes around Lleida.
OffLine Marco Troussier
  2018-11-04 14:52:31    
And still no woman repete? Strange (why?). One of the best way to knock at the History's door.
OnLine Thomas Maatz
  2018-11-05 14:53:01    
@Guido both of your points are in my opinion wrong. AD gets so often repeated because a lot of strong climbers trying it every year. It's history behind this route and it seems that this fact motivate most of us. Why should a short route be easier? That doesn't make any sense. I think the single moves are way harder than in most of the modern 9as. Maybe that's reason why we didn't see a female ascent of ad till now.

@Marco i totally agree with you. Would be awesome! Someone needs to talk with Janja
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-11-05 16:28:45    
I would think that AD is a relatively hard 9a :)
OffLine Jason Crank
  2018-11-05 17:15:15    
@Thomas, Guido is poking funsarcasm at previous reporting here at 8a. If I remember correctly, there was a previous article asking if AD could be harder since it'd seen so few repeats in years past despite its non-cutting-edge grade, as opposed to Era Vella that was getting lapped despite being "harder". Its a joke, as noted by the (mocking) repetition of the 8a staple phrase "grades are the number one criteria for reporting in the media"
OffLine Jason Crank
  2018-11-05 17:15:18    
OnLine Thomas Maatz
  2018-11-06 11:17:38    
Ahhh, that makes sense :) I was traveling yesterday and slept not that much, so maybe i didn't get the funsarcasm out of Guidos posts. If so, sorry @Guido

But now lets get back to the great ascent of Stefan. Congrats man!!!