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Absolute perfect Ondra jamming ending
OffLine 8a.nu
  2019-04-12 00:00:00    
The last boulder had a jamming section that none of the first five finalist could do what so ever. Adam Ondra, starting last as he won the semifinal, had to do the jam and get a zone to secure the win. He squeezes in his left hand and it get stuck so well so he drops the right hand and waves to the crowd celebrating him. One more jam and he continues with ease and create the perfect ending as well as start of the Boulder World Cup. The coming week, the Japanese and the rest of the gang will have to do some old school jamming training.

1. Adam Ondra 44 (4T4z)
2. Tomoa Narasaki 33
3. Rei Sugimoto 23
4. Kokoro Fujii 13 (3,5 attempts)
5. Jongwon Chon 13 (3,8)
6. Tomoaki Takata 11
Complete results
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine Christian Mengel
  2019-04-06 21:29:18    
"So, Ondra sat down with five boys and showed them how to hand jam" - Charlie Boscoe :D :D :D  What a great ending! 
OffLine Franz the Stampede
  2019-04-06 22:58:05    
It genuinely felt a bit unfair to the others. The way the 4th boulder was so easy for Adam...
OffLine Hans Boschker
  2019-04-06 23:39:38    
It should be noted that we have had another perfect example of the upside-down theory!
OffLine Kenny Walker
  2019-04-07 01:18:32    
It’s great to see them setting jamcracks. Maybe the wideboyz can contribute. That’ll sort the field!
OffLine Jason Giblin
  2019-04-07 03:39:28    
Why is it unfair to the others that Ondra is a more well-rounded climber? That's like saying a crimpy boulder is unfair to climbers without strong fingers. Not to take anything away from the other climbers, but basic jamming technique is not too hard to learn. These comps are supposed to test climbers' overall climbing skills, and if the five others don't have the necessary skills to climb that boulder, that seems like a well-set comp boulder to me.
OffLine Steve
  2019-04-07 04:27:45    
@Jason sarcasm [sär-ˌka-zəm]

Also, I liked how the Japanese guys sat on the sofa trying to imitate the hand jamming technique like some ancient humans getting exposed to a thing from the future.:D Anyway, I'm sure they are proficient in crack climbing technique by now...
OffLine Franz the Stampede
  2019-04-07 11:54:38    
Also, it's great to have the little gif/animation of the climber waving their hands, bowing, giving the thumb-up or the fist-bump or whatnot but STILL no live ranking to tell whether the climber being shown is competing for a podium spot or is out of the medal game already...
OffLine Kenny Walker
  2019-04-07 15:22:07    
Pretty incredible that the strongest damn boulderers in the world couldn’t do a hand jam. Even with the angle and jammy feet it was prolly 5.11- at most.
OffLine Tanner Rozier
  2019-04-07 17:32:48    
Think about how stupid this boulder would be if they did all know how to crack climb. All 6 would have walked up the climb, poor setting in my opinion, basically just separated crack climbers from non crack climbers. Should have had at least some other part of it that was challenging in addition to the crack.
OffLine Jan V'
  2019-04-07 19:01:31    
@Tanner Rozier "Think about how stupid this boulder would be if they did all know how to crack climb." How do you know? I don't think the crack was easy. Adam is excellent crack climber that might be the reasonn he made it look easy.
OffLine Robert Kasper
  2019-04-07 19:05:18    
Chon fell after the crack. Maybe it was not super easy after all
OffLine Robert Kasper
  2019-04-07 22:13:40    
The question is more like if you need a New fake passport. Anyone?
OffLine Laurent Rel
  2019-04-11 14:07:33    
What is the average difficulty of boulders in world finals? around 8B?
OffLine JLH
  2019-04-11 15:22:33    
Doubt. 7C/8A for male and 7B/+ for female, I guess.
OffLine hanez
  2019-04-11 16:16:21    
Ondra said on facebook that the crack on problem 4 was around 5.11 followed by a 5.12 upper section.
OffLine Jan V'
  2019-04-12 09:07:06    
I'd like to say I've really enjoyed commentating duo of Charlie Boscoe and Mike Langley. Both are really great, I like their sense of humor; they could press it even harder if it's up to me :)
OffLine Kang Hee
  2019-04-15 14:40:35    
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