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9a revenge for Stefano Ghisolfi
OffLine 8a.nu
  2016-07-20 00:00:00    
Stefano Ghisolfi, who was #2 in Chamonix and #9 in Villars, has done Condé de choc in Entraygues. "Nice revenge after disappointing 9th place in World Cup. 3rd pre clipped for me too."

The start has been graded as 8A+ and Adam Ondra has actually said that clipping the third quickdraw is the crux. If you miss it, you could even hit the ground. In the 8a Practice & Ethics we give a yellow card for "Two or three pre-clipped if it is for safety reason". Until like 15 years ago, climbing with three pre-clipped quickdraws would not count as a valid ascent but nowadays it is getting more common. It is great of Stefano to have gone public and it would be interesting to know the number of pre-clipped quickdraws by Tony Lamiche back in 2006. In the picture of Tony we can see that the third bolt is high above the second.
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine dreamingof8a
  2016-07-21 10:29:36    
So why not add a new bolt or move the third to make it easier and safer to clip? I know, ethics and all that, but if they say it's the crux to clip that bolt AND it's dangerous, I rereally don't see the point. It's sport climbing after all ....
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2016-07-21 12:50:33    
I totally agree and possibly the easiest solution is to just add one more bolt.