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8C in an hour by Nomura Shinichiro
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-02-19 00:00:00    
Nomura Shinichiro has, in an hour, done his third 8C Orochi in Kanoto. It was put up in 2006 by Dai Koyamada and has had six ascents. During the same day the 21 year old also did Ginga 8B+, on his third go. (c) Keiichiro Korenaga

Amazingly, the 159 cm tall started climbing on rock last December and directly did two 8C's. Previously, he has focused on competitions and has a silver in the Youth Worlds. In the last five IFSC Lead WCs 2017, his worst position was #29.

"What I normally do at my home gym, Project which Dai Koyamada owns, is checking my body condition of basic elements like to see whether my body moves in right way or not and to check holdings. And I have a fixed route to observe my body condition by climbing it. Adding to above, I climb harder route to find out what I am not good at and I should do to get over it. I always try to be aware of finding and getting over a weak point.

My climbing on rocks has just began so I would like to gain my experience more in 2018. I am going to try more and more 8B+ over problems. I also would like to compete as a member of Japan National Climbing Team for Lead World Championship."
Click to Enlarge Picture
OnLine John Render
  2018-02-19 14:53:00    
What does the time theory of grading suggest about this boulder?
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-02-19 23:13:03    
Based on all ascents and comments I would not be surpriced if it would be 8B+ in the future :) but I have learnt ny lesson to not interfere with grades in the news.
OffLine Yuki Yuki
  2018-02-20 05:30:10    
It is a great ascent. However, this article should also mention that the problem supposed to have been chipped in 2015 as many Japanese climbers reported. Even so, the problem has not been downgraded officially.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-02-20 07:10:02    
None of the guys that have recorded it on 8a has mentioned that it is chipped. Could you please tell me where you found this info.
OffLine Yuki Yuki
  2018-02-20 10:25:02    
Sorry, I could only find info in Japanese. One of the most biggest climbing news site in Japan "Climbing-net" also mentions like this, "Because of chipping influence, the grade of some problems in Kanoto might been changed. However, no one clearly defined it officially, so we describe grade same as the first ascent.

Also another site - yukiyama daisukikko, also describes the chipping problem in Kanoto (include Orochi) in December in 2015, with a quation from Toshi Takeuchi. Since then, there is no ascent recorded.
OffLine Joakim Thommesen
  2018-02-20 10:30:55    
Haha. It seems Nomura himself also forgot to inform about this.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-02-20 10:48:29    
Thanks... until somebody said Orochi got chipped, which made it easier we can not speculate about this.
OffLine Yuki Yuki
  2018-02-20 11:03:41    
Anyway, it is a great ascent and beautiful line (One of the line I wanted to try in the future). Chipping kills the problem and it never came back....