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Forum: GLOBAL / News / 8C/8C+ (9A) traverse by Jorge Díaz-Rullo (18) Login in to contribute
8C/8C+ (9A) traverse by Jorge Díaz-Rullo (18)
OffLine 8a.nu
  2017-11-10 00:00:00    
Jorge Díaz-Rullo has done the second ascent of Kaizen 8C/8C+ in Torrelodones, Spain. Beto Rocasolano did the FA and proposed 9A, without the new Jorge's beta including a rest that Jorge has found for his send making the boulder completly different. (C) Jaime Díaz. And writes on his scorecard:

"Oh my God I still can't believe it! Thanks for this high peak motivation and strength! Tired today and having tried it just two days the last year, got a magic try and I nailed it to send.. Ace Beto for the FA. Hard to grade though with some new beta and a new rest would be easier than when Beto did it. IMO will be in the 8C/8C+ range, the repeaters will confirm it. Super happy! Now keep going!

Needs to be mention that the traverse grade is approximately two grades easier than in the regular scale. For example an 8A traverse equals to a 7C.
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine Mike Kimmel
  2017-11-10 21:10:01    
Slash grade + parenthesis. 
OffLine Ben Iseman
  2017-11-10 22:25:48    
here's an 8a innovation i would love to see: the death of the traverse grading scale! just give it the appropriate boulder grade or the appropriate route grade whichever makes more sense.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-11-11 07:25:50    
8a have worked hard for 15 years to stop traverse grading and we have also, prior to your comment, asked Jorge to change it on his scorecard.