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8C (+) by Dai Koyamada
OffLine 8a.nu
  2010-05-13 00:00:00    
Dai Koyamada reports with picture that he has done the second ascents of The Story of two worlds in Cresciano which Dave Graham put up in 2004 and originally graded 8C. "Climbers like Daniel Woods are telling me over and over how this boulder must be the standard for 8C+ and I think it is interesting, as I did grade it a rather bizarre manner." "The boulder is a pure sit start to a chunk of rock Toni Lamprecht climbed and called 'The Dagger'. It starts with 7-Big moves at 8B or 8B+ which is very friction depending and crimpy as hell, directely climbing into an incredibly physical 8B+". Dai Koyamada has previously done some 15 8C boulders and two boulder routes graded 8Cc+, The Wheel of Life and Hydrangea. During 97-00, Dai competed in the WC and his best result was #4.
OnLine Christian Mengel
  2010-05-13 09:39:07    
Now that´s news! It will be interesting to see how Dai comments on the grade! Incredible job!
OnLine Christian Mengel
  2010-05-13 09:43:46    
btw, Jamie Emerson´s blog has an intersting comment on the subject of 8C+...definately worth reading...it´s under the comment section of the Dai news...
OffLine Bongowurm
  2010-05-13 09:44:26    
Unbelievable! This must be the proudest send of the season. Hope there's video.
OffLine Pippi
  2010-05-13 10:34:50    
Dai on Rememberance Of Things Past
OffLine Tom Thudium
  2010-05-14 08:42:02    
Bähm nice so awsome if you can crush whatever you want. So strong!
OffLine joza
  2010-05-14 13:37:29    
It must be a boulderroute, I just saw a video of The dagger and if you add up 7 more moves...  :)
OffLine Shige Moriya
  2010-05-14 19:54:51    
Dai reported about grade of The Story of Two World. He thinks, it is not 8C for him. It is probably 8C/C+ or 8C+. Otherwise, most of the existing 8C and 8B+ has to be considered for downgrading if it is standard 8C as Dave Graham graded. He also mentioned that he would like to respect first ascent person's opinion.  One more thing. It was not normal sent for him. Because it was raining a lot and his chance was limited. If he sent it in good condition, maybe he could sent it quicker. I hope my translation does not confuse people.  Good job Dai!
OffLine Teemu Skolavi
  2010-05-15 00:34:18    
Not confusing at all - cheers / arigato for the translation Shige - it´s really nice to know,with limited japanese skills, what Dai´s saying / thinking about his ascents