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Forum: GLOBAL / News / 8c+ trad hybrid by Bernd Zangerl after big injury Login in to contribute
8c+ trad hybrid by Bernd Zangerl after big injury
OffLine 8a.nu
  2017-08-16 00:00:00    
Bernd Zangerl, one of the pioneers of Magic Wood and a leading boulderer some 15 yeras ago, took a very bad fall in 2015. (c) Ray Demski

"I landed hard on my back on my crash pad, followed by a somersault into the forest’s stony ground. Conscious again, I was sitting on my knees looking up at the project five meters above me. There was only little pain in my neck, which I didn’t give much attention to, and I went back home.

The next day I went to a spa, relaxing. I didn’t think the fall was anything serious, until a few days later when the pain became unstintingly severe.
After a MRI, the doctors explained to me that I was very lucky, but I’d badly injured the 5th and 6th vertebra in my neck.

When I woke up a few days later, I couldn’t feel my thumb and index finger anymore. A funky feeling. A few hours later my muscles on my back (terres major and serratus anterior) started vibrating. That was the moment when the brain stopped sending impulses to the muscles. The atrophy started slowly. I didn’t know what was going on. I felt the results eight weeks later back in the gym. I wanted to hold on some jugs, but I couldn’t do it anymore. My arm straightened without any resistance. I totally lost the two most important muscles in climbing, the terres major and serratus anterior!

After a 1,5 year of physio training indoor and specific mental work every day, I was super happy to be outside, to climb on the rock again. Into the Sun (8c+) starts with a six move 8A+ traverse into Fred Nicole's old top rope boulder Murgtal Tag & Nacht 8A+ (where gear is placed) and tops out with a 7b link.

After this injure, it is not the grade which is important to me. It never really was. The way back to bouldering, to climbing, to what I love can not be measured with numbers. Words can't tell how happy I am to be back on the rock. I still have some more projects which I want to climb in future. I am still not as strong as before my accident but I am getting there:-)
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine Joakim Thommesen
  2017-08-16 12:08:56    
Good effort getting back on the horse.
OffLine Mr Incognito
  2017-08-16 21:32:38    
I was just almost left paralyzed after falling and recovered by what seems like a miracle, lets celebrate it by climbing into six meters and get into same potential risk... Dude... Just chill and climb something save for a while...
OffLine Joakim Thommesen
  2017-08-17 12:25:38    
Good point from Mr I :-D
OffLine Daniel Fagerlund
  2017-08-18 11:42:22    
As a side reference to this. Look on the Alex Honnold episode och Munchies where he climbs with James Lucas (The best red-point freesoloist in the world). James Lucas drops a comment on getting back from a bad injury.