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Forum: GLOBAL / News / 8C+ low start extension by barefoot Charles Albert Login in to contribute
8C+ low start extension by barefoot Charles Albert
OffLine 8a.nu
  2017-11-11 00:00:00    
Charles Albert, who stopped using climbing shoes some five years ago, has added a three move lower start to his La Revolutionnaire in Fotainebleau, making it his first 8C+. In the picture, the previous sit start is marked with red dots. Previously he has done four 8C out of which one most probably not possible with climbing shoes which also goes for his 8C+. The reason for this is that there is a good pocket where he can squeeze in his big toe pulling in hard, meanwhile with a shoe, you can just push with your foot. In total he needed around 15 sessions.

Is this the hardest boulder in the world to repeat? Probably, any of the top boulders would need years of preparation to develop the big toe pulling in strength as well as technique Charles possesses.
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine Kenny Walker
  2017-11-13 05:25:51    
Are you sure this story is correct? He said he climbed it in converse (yep, believe it or not, that’s what he said on FB) in which case there won’t be any toe-pulling as described...
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-11-13 07:28:36    
Charles told me what is written in the article. I also asked him to check the article.
OffLine Li-How
  2017-11-13 09:54:55    
Kenny the toe part refers to Le pied à coulisse I think, another Font boulder problem whom FA is from Guillaume Glairon-Mondet. Charles did a direct version which was only possible barefoot according to Jimmy Webb who did the original version. You're right about the converse, I've read that too. Would love to see a video of the ascent! :-)
OffLine Kenny Walker
  2017-11-13 10:06:09    
Jens states the toe-jam principle “also goes for his 8C+”, which I assume is referring to this new problem. So which is it? Maybe he wore converse on one foot? Clearly if the dude can climb it in Cons then there’s no special trickery which would make it more difficult in rock shoes...
OffLine Li-How
  2017-11-13 10:51:21    
Maybe he has a hole in his converse...
OffLine The Whistleblower 5
  2017-11-13 13:02:21    
Charles' direct version of Le Pied à Coulisse was recently repeated.

Charles did the extension to La Révolutionnaire with his shoes (Converse) on.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-11-13 16:17:18    
Can you show me where he has written that cause when I chatted to he said what was published above.
OffLine Kenny Walker
  2017-11-14 00:20:55    
I tried to attach a screenshot but it won’t let me do it. Look on his FB page and scroll down the comments Jens. He states he did this problem wearing Converse.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-11-14 08:05:34    
Even UKC reports that he did it without shoes!
OffLine Kenny Walker
  2017-11-14 10:12:22    
It’s a poor journalist who quotes another journalist as his source Jens! if only your dodgy software would allow me to post a screenshot of his FB then we could solve this conundrum (wrapped up in an enigma, confounded by a quagmire...)
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-11-14 10:15:12    
My source is Charles Albert who told me what is written in the article. UKC reported their story several days after 8a had published it. Obviously Charles made a joke on his Facebook page. As you can understand it is not possible to boulder a 8C+ in his converse.
OffLine Lorenz Ulmer
  2017-11-14 10:44:33    
Didn’t he do it no feet with Red Bull?
OffLine Kenny Walker
  2017-11-14 11:47:41    
That’s not a joke Jens. A joke goes something like - " Doctor: You're overweight. Patient: I think I want a second opinion. Doctor: You're also ugly. "
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-11-14 12:08:16    
So you mean that you think he established the first 8C+ in Fontainebleau using converse shoes :)
OffLine bomberone
  2017-11-14 16:06:02    
Maybe it was a mindsend? :-)
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-11-15 11:03:10    
@ Kenny & The Wistleblower 5:

Charles has confirmed that it was like a say "a joke" to say he was wearing converse while opening his 8C+.

I guess he thought like me that everyone would understand it was a joke :)
OffLine The Whistleblower 5
  2017-11-15 13:05:07    
It's hard to tell whether someone is joking or not, especially here on 8a.nu :)

Were you, Jens, also joking about Charles' direct version of Le Pied à Coulisse being the hardest boulder problem in the world to repeat?
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-11-15 13:12:27    
I find it hard to understand how you could think an 8C+ could be done with converse.

In regards, the direct version, one of the best boulderer in the world said it was impossible to repeat with shoes.
OffLine Giuliano Cameroni
  2017-11-15 13:33:02    
The funniest conversation ever on 8a!! I couldn't stop laughing haha
OffLine The Whistleblower 5
  2017-11-15 15:07:30    
Did you seriously think that I was thinking that Charles did the problem wearing Converse?
OffLine Giuliano Cameroni
  2017-11-15 16:22:25    
I bet some people did, believe me he also climbs with shoes haha still a funny argument no? Lol
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-11-15 16:35:01    
Based on what you write, yes it seems you actually believed it :) Otherwise please explain your post :)

"Charles' direct version of Le Pied à Coulisse was recently repeated.

Charles did the extension to La Révolutionnaire with his shoes (Converse) on."
OffLine bomberone
  2017-11-15 18:41:56    
Btw, nalle repeated pied a coulisse direct with shoes on. And confirmed 8B+
OffLine Jason Crank
  2017-11-15 19:39:39    
Jimmy said the direct MIGHT not be possible with shoes on. Nalle has proven that's not the case with his repeat. I'd be interested if Nalle feels the direct is easier or harder for him than Gui Gui's original line.