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6.697 by T Narasaki in Speed
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-09-13 00:00:00    
Tomoa Narasaki has set a new very impressive record in Speed at 6.697. Runner-up among the non-speed specialists are Mickael Mawem 6.769, Kokoro Fujii at 7.283 and Jan Hojer at 7.496. Adam Ondra did 9.613 in his Speed debut. Complete results
OffLine frank krane
  2018-09-13 14:54:57    
Impressive false start by Ogata e Chon that can both definitively forget any gold hope.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-09-13 15:01:23    
I think that if you make a false start in your first race, you are not allowed to participate in the second race. If this is true, it is just totally crazy.
OffLine frank krane
  2018-09-13 15:28:27    
Schubert out as well!!
And Boldyrev one of the best speed athlete.

It's not crazy. It is a well known rule and they should have paid more attention to.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-09-13 15:45:58    
The well known rule is crazy. Why should you be disqualification from the first run if you make a false start in the second. It is like you set a new world record in long jump in the first go but later you are disqualified as your second jump was not ok.
OffLine Tanner Rozier
  2018-09-13 16:00:37    
While lead and bouldering seem to have a big correlation in who qualifies, speed just seems to be almost an entirely different sport. It can't even be practiced outside, it is not rock climbing. It is plastic parkour.
OffLine frank krane
  2018-09-13 16:01:23    
Well it is an opinion. I respect your, but I believe that it is a right rule and not new. Two years now that is in place.
You need to take into account that the starting system is predefined an always the same, that's to say that the athletes exactly know when to start. It's not like the old starting system or the one that for example is in use in the swimming or athletics where you really need to wait for the sound because you don't know when it will be.
I must say that I prefer the old system.
Schubert did a big mistake since after a 7.88 was secure to be in the final six he could have not started at all at the second go.
OffLine frank krane
  2018-09-13 16:02:53    
@tanner I believe that parkour is more appropriate for bouldering ... :-)
OffLine Bojan
  2018-09-13 16:59:38    
Schubert is not "out" -- in combined he is still on place #4:
current combined results

Agree, the rule is crazy, but it only really matters for speed specialists (Boldyrev, world champion 2014), not for those in combined ranking, where e.g. Schubert (false start, rank #110) didn't loose much against Ondra (#81 in speed).
OffLine Joakim Thommesen
  2018-09-13 17:27:53    

What a fucking joke this whole speed climbing is turning out to be.
OffLine User Deactivated
  2018-09-13 17:28:44    
Who the hell even cares? The whole speed-concept is laughable and should be ignored. The IOC can go fuck themselves.
OffLine Joakim Thommesen
  2018-09-13 17:34:48    
OffLine Sebastian Peace
  2018-09-13 17:41:56    
There should also be a slow and style competition.
Patrick Berhault & Fred Nicole
OffLine Bojan
  2018-09-13 17:49:08    
IMO, the speed climbing became a joke when Godoff came out with his idea of speed route consisting of 20 identical(!) holds, mounted on a wall in exactly the same way forever. Why didn't they chose a ladder instead? It would make much more sense...

Add to that nonsense 2 'real' disciplines and you got a real mess -- an Olimpic format?!
OffLine frank krane
  2018-09-13 18:34:42    
Right, Schubert is for sure in.
Kokoro, Hojer and Rubstov instead need to push hard and eventually hoping in some error from the others.
Very interesting.
Incredible how bad was Megos and not really understanding if he had a second try. Also Narasaki I'm not sure if he climbed twice.
OffLine Tanner Rozier
  2018-09-13 18:40:41    
@frank haha sometimes...
OffLine rai
  2018-09-13 18:41:49    
This is closer to circus than climbing... IFSC please stop that joke...
OffLine Nikolina Marinova
  2018-09-14 08:00:42    
Does somebody know what is this "Wildcard" about? Strange is to see in the women's small final how wildcard beats false start.
OffLine frank krane
  2018-09-14 09:07:33    
When a false start happens the other win (wildcard).
OffLine Bojan
  2018-09-14 09:09:33    
It means this competitor's start was OK while the one is his pair has false start. Both competitors are stopped immediately after the start and first one automatically progresses to the next round. Or -- if this is the last round -- the first one is ranked higher, e.g. this is how Krasavina won a bronze in a small final against A. Kalucka (false start).
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-09-14 09:14:25    
Imagine what could happen if both make false starts during the semifinal. I guess this means that they do not need to run the final?
OffLine Bojan
  2018-09-14 09:23:59    
The one with a higher reaction time progresses to the final.
OffLine Ido Vlaardingerbroek
  2018-09-14 10:12:12    
I don't understand why they don't just do a restart like in most races. So much gets decided by these false starts. It should be about who climbs fastest!
OffLine frank krane
  2018-09-14 11:34:37    
Swimming and athletics you are out for a false start. Do you remember Bolt??
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-09-14 12:09:19    
Yes, but why should you be disqualified for your first round if you make a false start in race 2.
OffLine frank krane
  2018-09-14 12:40:05    
Why should you improve your race 1 result if you are faster in race 2?
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-09-14 12:47:51    
This is how it works in most sports. You get several tries and the best counts. Speed climbing is the only sport where you get disqualified for the whole competition if you make a false start in the second race.

What if you set a new world record in the first run, do you think this should not count if you make a false start in the second race?
OffLine Ido Vlaardingerbroek
  2018-09-14 13:46:55    
@frank kane I know I don't remember disqualifications being such a common occurence. I don't know if you've ever watched a speed climbing competition, but false starts happen all the time. For me it's just completely ridiculous such a big part of the outcome is determined by the false starts.
I'm sure they would be having similar discussion if every 100m sprint had to be restarted 4 times for false starts including 2 of the favourites!
OffLine Bojan
  2018-09-14 16:32:58    
>Speed climbing is the only sport where you get disqualified for the whole competition if you make a false start in the second race.

Not at all. If you make false start in sprint, you are out for good.
There's a difference between sports with individual start with several attempts (e.g. long jump) and team/pairs start (sprint/speed climbing) sports. In former only single attempt doesn't count, in second, you are usually out for good. The logic behind this is, in the latter case you may influence not only your results, but also of the others (e.g. second start may disturb your opponent). So the rules are trying to prevent this by some kind of penalty, e.g. by disqualification or time penalty (e.g. you get 10 seconds 'bonus' for early start in ski-running).
But I agree there is (too) many false starts in speed climbing and ifsc should do something about this (rules changes, different starting signal?...).
Also, penalty for false start in speed climbing seems too harsh, especially for those (in qualification round) who are out not only for speed, but also for combined...
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-09-14 16:40:05    
Please read again, " if you make a false start in the second race. " SECOND RACE

The solution is to add like 1 or 2 seconds if you make a close false start. If you deliberately start seconds before, you should of curse get disqualified.
OffLine Bojan
  2018-09-14 21:51:29    
Yes, a read it, but again, if you false start in *any* run it may influence the result of your opponent.
So there should be some penalty and I said IMO current one is "... to harsh"...