GO TO GLOBAL SITE   se es us fr za it
de ca au no
at br ru ch
gb pl nl sk
Home | News | Videos | Articles | Gallery | Crags | Gyms | Search - Tick List | Forum | Ranking | Blogs | Contact | New Member
Forum: GLOBAL / Editorial / Zone is NOT mandatory for Tops Login in to contribute
Zone is NOT mandatory for Tops
OffLine 8a.nu
  2019-02-13 00:00:00    
IFSC have presented the new rules for 2019. One big change is that, in order to get the Top, you need to also control the zone. If you skip the zone and get the Top you will just be awarded the Zone.

"2) in descending order, the number of boulders on which the compeitor has either:
a) Controlled or Used (in either case, with one or other hand) the Zone Hold; or
b) Successfully completed the boulder without having Controlled or Used the Zone Hold, this number being the “Zone Points” awarded;"


Previously, climbers have sometimes skipped the zone and Topped the problem when the route setters have made it very hard to control the Zone. This will NOT be OK in 2019 unless you actually down climb and control the zone afterwards.

Imagine how hard this new rule will be to be interpreted for the spectators. One guy Tops but he gets awarded a Zone!
OffLine JLH
  2019-02-14 09:59:05    
Another one in a row of stupid decisions by IFSC.
OffLine olmin
  2019-02-14 10:02:55    
I don't think any climber will go to the top skipping the zone now
OffLine Jean-Baptiste Jourjon
  2019-02-14 14:14:18    
This is just to make it easier for routesetters and prevents from climbers going straight up to top by using footholds or big dynos for instance. This is to remove pressure on routesetters, avoid ties by giving more weight to zones, but it doesn't reward climbers that sometimes find very original ways to climb to top thanks to their creativity, specific technical or physical skills.
Most IFSC guys are or have been climbers, it's a pity to see how the stakes of Olympism make them forget what fundamentally is their passion sport.
OffLine JLH
  2019-02-14 14:50:49    
Jean, "avoid ties by giving more weight to zones" is not a problem, ties even in a single round (without countback) are extremely rare.
I also don't believe it removes pressure, any decent setter (and 'forerunners') should always check to avoid all possible shortcuts, not only those avoiding zone hold.
Agree with creativity part though. Simple rule "start here, use whichever holds you want to reach the top", is broken and contrary to outdoors (in fact, there are some elimination problems, indoor we now have anti-elimination).
OnLine Tim Hatch
  2019-02-14 14:53:03    
There is no change to the ranking process:
1. Count the number of Tops;
2. Count the number of Zone Points, being where the climber has (a) Controlled or Used the Zone; or (b) completed the boulder without using the Zone;
3. Count the number of attempts for these Tops;
4. Count the number of attempts to get the Zone Points.

The only change here is that the rule makes express that you must control the Zone with a hand (previously unstated). Zones are not a mandatory pre-condition for a Top
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2019-02-14 15:45:52    
Thanks Tim but I do not understand as it says a Top without controlling the zone is awarded zone only. Possibly you need to rewrite what us written as everyone seems to missunderstand.
OffLine Nathan Schulpen
  2019-02-14 16:31:52    
Jens, the text you quote applies only to how the number of zones are counted. You get awarded a zone if:
- you control or use the zone hold
- you top out the boulder without using the zone hold
OnLine Tim Hatch
  2019-02-14 16:45:37    
@Jens

Since I wrote the provision it makes sense to me but I will of course consult to see if this is a common misunderstanding.

8.16.C is about when an attempt is successful/unsuccessful and there is no precondition that a Zone Hold must be used.

8.18 is only about ranking and the flow seems simple enough,:
- the first criteria used for ranking (8.18.A.1) is the number of successfully completed boulders (Tops).
- the second criteria used for ranking (8.18.A.2) is the number of Zone Points awarded as in limbs (a) and (b)
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2019-02-14 17:25:02    
I do think this is not clear and there will be many climbers who will missunderstand the meaning of it. I will take out the article and only keep it in the forum.


b) Successfully completed the boulder without having Controlled or Used the Zone Hold, this number being the “Zone Points” awarded;"
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2019-02-14 17:29:07    
Here is a draft of an article i did not plan to present before I got some comments from IFSC. Possibly you could help out here also.

”It seems to be a contradiction in the new Bouldering rule 2019in regards how to start. First you need to achieve a stable controlloed position with both hands and feet but it is also OK to just touch the starting holds with the feet.

One possible conclusion is that if you can get a stable and controlled position with just your hands it is OK to start a (sideways) momentum by just touching the foot holds with the feet. On the other hand, possible it would be ok to jump up to by running on the wall as long as you have touched one or two marked starting holds for the feet?

It should be mentioned that several coaches and athletes have been asked whether they understand this new rule but most think it is just a mistake that will be corrected.”
OffLine JLH
  2019-02-14 19:06:46    
Yes, it seems a false alarm. In 2018 there is rule (7.4.2) "...The zone point will be awarded also where a competitor successfully completes the boulder without having controlled the Zone Hold", which seems to disappear in 2019 rule book and been included in 8.18 rule in 2019 rule book. Don't see why this change, the rule 2018 is clear and 2019 is confusing.