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OffLine 8a.nu
  2019-02-21 00:00:00    
Based on that Speed respective Lead/Boulder will be included in the Olympic Games 2024, we can almost certain say that even if no Speed specialists will qualify to Tokyo, the tripartite selection will go to a Speed specialist.

The dilemma with a Speed specialist taking part in Tokyo is that probably being ranked 1 * 20 * 20 means you will get #8 in the qualification. The consequence of this is that it will be bad to win the qualification as the winner will compete towards the guy who qualified as #8, i.e. the Speed specialist.

Let us say Tomoa Narasaki is #3 in Speed and wins Bouldering in the qualification in Tokyo. This means that he is at risk for winning the qualification and facing the Speed specialist in the Top-8 final. In practice, Narasaki would be much better off to slip in Lead and get #20 in order to increase his chances for a better result in the Speed final.

The only way to avoid such a debacle for our sport would be to change the rule, i.e. let the qualification winner select which guy he/she would like to face in the Speed final.
OffLine frank krane
  2019-02-22 09:32:03    
let the qualification winner select which guy he/she would like to face in the Speed final This seems to be a good idea to me.
OffLine Maxiem
  2019-02-22 10:40:14    
I didn't dive into the rules and format at all, so am I correct in understanding that the #1 qualified has to run against the #8 qualified, and the loser is eliminated? And why pick against who you have to run against if you can just let everyone run and keep track of the best overall time, making it fair and not based on your opponent?
OffLine Martijn Pieterse
  2019-02-22 15:08:55    
Lol. climbing used to be so simple. The one getting to the top wins.

This is an abomination.
OffLine Tim Hatch
  2019-02-22 15:28:23    
@Dabreu

The pairing in the final of Speed is based on the times achieved in qualification, so if Tomoa had the 3rd fastest time from qualification) he would race against the competitor with the 6th fastest time from qualification.

The fastest climber from the qualification round will go up against the 8th fastest.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2019-02-22 15:59:59    
@ Tim: Thanks for the clarification which means that the problem I did put forward does not exist. Strangely, I did ask both one athlete and one coach and they thought they same .
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2019-02-22 16:00:00    
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OffLine Tim Hatch
  2019-02-22 18:15:56    
It was done this way in 2017/18 and there is no change going forward. The pairing system would be a lottery if done differently