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Forum: GLOBAL / Editorial / The final format is boring Login in to contribute
The final format is boring
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-04-23 00:00:00    
Reino Horak, former Swedish National coach who now works as the National coach for Norway, shares his somewhat boring experience looking at the 3.5 hours boulder finals in Moscow. He has previously possibly seen a dozen boulder finals in the front row but this was the first time way back with the spectators.

- Within an hour, many around me started to get bored during all these one minute breaks in between tries. After two hours even myself started to loose interest as it was just too many dead moments. Normally, when I am in the front row, you can observe so many details and feel the pulse, breathing and the adrenaline from the climb.

Sitting just 50 meters away, I must say, after three hours, all these dead moments with long waiting in between attempts, the format need to be speeded up giving more excitement for the spectators. Around me I actually saw people almost fell a sleep in their chairs.

The simple solution is to just the female and male compete at the same time but personally, I would like to go for the solution as pointed out in the 11 point system format with three climbers rotating at the first three boulders.
OffLine Bojan
  2018-04-23 19:52:44    
>"Great qualification round"
>"Great female qually"
>"Extraordinary great semifinals"
>"Excellent route setting also in the final in Moscow where it was thrilling to the very last try"

and then:
>"The final format is boring"
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-04-23 22:30:27    
Please note that it is Horak, who was sitting like 50 meters away, who thought it was boring. Looking at the live-streaming where you can kill the dead moments and check the replay, it was very good.
OffLine Bojan
  2018-04-24 16:17:12    
So stop attending the comp stages and watch at home :)

Anyhow, separating men and women finals was another bad idea by IFSC.
Especially after arguing 4+ mins rule makes comps take too long...
OffLine John Render
  2018-04-24 20:28:16    
Why are there delays between climbers in finals? i.e. other than cleaning the holds, which doesn't take long, why can't the next climber come out right after the previous climber finishes?
OffLine Endre Verden
  2018-04-25 00:00:06    
Separating the finals was a GREAT choice, imo!
Finally I we can see and enjoy the climbing, err i meant jumping.

The boring issue comes from what seems like to be the new instructions from IFSC to the setters. Set too "easy" boulders, so we get a lot of tops. People like tops...

And go with jumping and coordination moves. People like flashy stuff...

Some is ok, but come on! Jumping and coordination moves on all the boulders!?. I should just stop whining and realize that this is the way it'll be and use my time where it matters. CLIMBING, so buuu IFSC you've failed the CLIMBING sport again.
OffLine J. Smith
  2018-04-25 13:26:17    
The old formats of lead and boulders were entertaining and fun to watch. I have hardly missed any of competitions. The new "American Ninja on the wall" has very little to do with sport climbing. Therefore it's boring for climbers and not enough attractive for non-climbers. Instead of gaining new spectators, it's loosing the traditional ones. I don't watch IFSC crap anymore. IFSC has succeed to destroy a perfect sport imo.
OffLine TJ Vrag
  2018-04-25 22:16:17    
Jens, would you please organize a poll to find out the opinion about "jumping and coordination" versus "rock climbing style". It would also be nice to see the opinion about "6 minutes limitation" vs "8 minutes limitation" vs "no time measurement in finals".