GO TO GLOBAL SITE   se es us fr za it
de ca au no
at br ru ch
gb pl nl sk
Home | News | Videos | Articles | Gallery | Crags | Gyms | Search - Tick List | Forum | Ranking | Blogs | Contact | New Member
Forum: GLOBAL / Editorial / Speed advices from the champ 5.61 Boldyrev Login in to contribute
Speed advices from the champ 5.61 Boldyrev
OffLine 8a.nu
  2019-02-07 00:00:00    
Danyil Boldyrev, Speed world record holder at 5.61 and twice WCH, is going for the Olympics and 5.3 seconds. He is also a Speed coach for many countries like Germany, Slovenia, USA, China and Austria etc. Last week he had some sessions with Jan Hojer and Yannik Flohe who he thinks are very talented and could go down to 6.65 this year.

He agrees that you can check your Speed potential by focusing and measuring the time of the first 4-5 moves and standing long jump. The Ukrainian can jump 3.30 cm.

"But I prefer using 20 exercises and after I could decide the potential. For me time is less important but instead the quality of movements on the speed wall and how athletes will do my special exercises. Without good coordination it will be very hard to make athletes, speed athletes.

Speed climbing it's also a hard mental game. You must always analyze and visualize how you want to climb. Never forget about coordination, flexibility and fast training. Fluency and power on the speed wall it's the best way for great speed and time and stability of course."

We will follow up with Boldyrev's personal thoughts and plans for making it to the Olympics.
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine JLH
  2019-02-08 08:09:23    
"Speed world record holder at 5.61 and twice WCH"

Former (2014-17) record holder at 5.60 and once world champion.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2019-02-08 12:37:35    
I sent the draft to Boldyrev who said it was ok but i will change.
OffLine Jason Crank
  2019-02-08 15:22:05    
How much of his speed does he think he may lose in the cross training for lead and boulder?

I found the US Combined Championship to be an interesting experiment, and what I saw is that the most dominant speed athlete can make it through the first round of eliminations (a 1st place is worth a ton in the multiplicative system). Outside of that, the advantage is cut significantly - the speed 1st place male from qualifiers made it into finals in the last available spot, and the next closest in finals was the 8th place speed finisher.

There seems to be this gnashing of teeth that a dedicated speed athlete is going to bump out "more deserving" climbers and make for a bad show, but given the overlap of the other two categories, I highly doubt its a meaningful concern.