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Forum: GLOBAL / Editorial / Sharma's routes are the greatest Login in to contribute
Sharma's routes are the greatest
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-12-04 00:00:00    
Looking in the 8a database trying to identify who has put up the most popular and highest ranked hard core routes, Chris Sharma sticks out.

2.8 Papichulo 9a+ in Oliana
2.2 Mind Control 8c (8c+) in Oliana
2.1 Era Vella 9a (8c+) in Margalef
2.0 Biographie 9a+ in Céüse

In fact, almost all Chris hardest routes have later been hailed and recommended. Here are some examples of some with few repeats;
First round first minute 9b, El Bon Combat 9a+ (9b/+), Fight or Flight 9b, Es Pontas 9b . (c) Chris Insta with 455 000 followers.
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine pbla4024
  2018-12-03 13:54:17    
Biographie was put up by Jean-Christophe Lafaille.
OffLine Joakim Thommesen
  2018-12-03 18:04:13    
...and is the best line of them all - despite the 2.0 score.
OffLine rai
  2018-12-03 21:17:41    
In fact Petr!!! El bon Combat also was not bolted by Chris...
OffLine Jan V'
  2018-12-04 07:19:12    
Who knows, Chris Sharma's routes might be the greatest, but make conclusions based just on 8a.nu ranking is rubbish IMHO. And what pbla4024 and rai said.
OffLine Jean-Baptiste Jourjon
  2018-12-04 15:28:42    
Please correct your news, "put up" usually means "bolted by". Bolting and making first ascents it totally different. The merit is even more for a climber (like Lafaille) who bolts a route he knows he will never be able to climb. This is a real "gift" to the climbing community.
Sharma also bolted really nice stuff but you shall not mix everything if you want to be a serious media.
Thanks
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-12-04 19:42:59    
The news was edited directly after the first comment so I do not understand why the remaining have said the same thing? The news in the forum stays the same in order to show why some comments were made.
OffLine Jan V'
  2018-12-05 08:28:22    
@Jens Larssen "The news was edited directly after the first comment so I do not understand why the remaining have said the same thing?"

Maybe because they click directly onthe forum and read old version of news. At least that was my case.
OffLine gianluca
  2018-12-07 10:25:53    
the interesting question would be: are all these routes "objectively" king lines or do some of them get a sort of magic aura from being FAd by a particularly charismatic climber?

at my modest level, the value i see in a route may be strongly influenced by having witnessed an inspiring ascent, a story in a magazine many years ago, belaying a stronger friend, "reference" status etc. All things that have no direct relationship with the rock itself. I wonder if it is the same at the cutting edge!
OffLine Tanner Rozier
  2018-12-09 01:03:28    
Why so many naysayers, Sharma is awesome and has FAed many amazing routes, he has inspired so many climbers including me. If I never happened upon a photo of him on Es Pontas I never would have gotten to where I am today with climbing. Praise the climbing god sharma!
OffLine gianluca
  2018-12-09 11:33:03    
just to make it clear: i am as inspired by CS as any climber of my generation. If i was climbing 9's i would be projecting FRFM. To me this does not change the terms of my question, that can be re-framed outside of climbing. Does "objective" or "natural" beauty exist? How is it defined? When we are particularly inspired by an object, a piece of art, a car, or a climbing route, how much of this inspiration is related to the "natural beauty" and how much by something else, that is more of a social construction? If some of us dream about climbing FRFM is it more because we really like short steep routes, tufas and pockets, or because of some kind of imitation? (nb a French philosopher says that imitation is the true nature of desire and that somehow we never desire things for what they are, but rather because of what they represent. Those of us who desire a Ferrari do so because they want to be Ferrari-owners and Ferrari-drivers, not because of they really care about the metal, carbon fiber and red paint)
OffLine Jan V'
  2018-12-10 16:26:44    
@Tanner Rozier you are confusing naysayer with someone who actually thinks. Actually you are, unaware of it, becoming naysayer yourself by your action.

"Why so many naysayers, Sharma is awesome and has FAed many amazing routes" I see no one saying Sharma isn't great or awesome climber. I see no one complaining or doubting Sharma at all. Actually regarding Sharma there is only praise in thies thread. You are barking at the wrong tree, you naysayer.
OffLine Steve
  2018-12-11 00:13:24    
Man, you should try to think a bit about how you're saying things. Even if it's on the internet.
OnLine Kenny Walker
  2018-12-11 03:08:45    
Sharma routes are either routes that Chris bolted or did the FA of. Either way he played a fundamental part in developing them. Chris has established more unique, iconic, hard and diverse routes than practically anyone. I guess when he almost had a monopoly on 9a+/9b for 10years and the world as his oyster he made the most of it!
OffLine pbla4024
  2018-12-11 08:36:10    
You can only claim Sharma had a 9a+/9b monopoly, if you forget Huber, Rouhling, Fernandez, Gaskins, Millet, Bock, Andrada, Ramon, Ondra, ...
OffLine louis de cornulier
  2018-12-16 00:59:40    
Some amazing lines:
Biographie
Cobra crack
Gaïa
Spank the monkey
Jumbo Love
OffLine pbla4024
  2018-12-16 10:50:58    
Biographie is from Lafaille, Cobra crack from Berthod or Trotter, Gaia from Core, Jumbo love from Leavitt, Spank the monkey from Watts. Are you replying to correct thread?
OffLine louis de cornulier
  2018-12-17 08:59:11    
@pbla4024 yes I believe so. I didn't go into the details, but, considering the original post and the first answers, I felt like contributing my own 2 cents about which lines I find really outstanding. As it turns out, 2 involve Sharma as their FAer, but none were bolted by him, so I'd say I'm half on and half off topic, but I admit I could have made my point plainer by adding a bit of context.
Fish Eye is a Sharma route I like, so is es Pontas. And now that I think of it, Graham's Coup de Grâce and Bachar/Kauk's Peace are 2 other great lines.

Also, I don't think we're talking about the same Gaia. Gioia is a boulder set up by Core, that I don't particularly like, Gaia (which I'm referring to) is a Peak District trad route FAed by Johnny Dawes.