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Forum: GLOBAL / Editorial / Many of the best skip Vail Login in to contribute
Many of the best skip Vail
OffLine 8a.nu
  2019-05-23 00:00:00    
From the starting list to the Boulder WC we can see only four of the female Top-10 will participate. Among the male, the winner in Munich Jakob Schubert and Anze Peharc skip it. In practice this means that in Vail, like also in Munich last week, many of the best do not participate.

Most probably, the reason for this is that many think the Olympics is more important. The season is very long and will be finished with the qualification event in France.
OffLine JLH
  2019-05-24 09:20:53    
The only important thing in overall especially is who is the winner of the world cup. Being 3rd, 5th or 10th doesn't make much difference.

In men, both Tomoa and Adam will be there and in girls the game is over. But in girls, it will be interesting: Janja has never won in Vail (in fact she missed the final in 2017 ;), Akiyo and Miho will be there and for the first time in bouldering WC we may see the perfect score (all wins) by Janja...
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2019-05-24 10:04:27    
The result in the Boulder World Cup has been very important since it started in 2001(?). It is sad for our sport that the best do not give prioritize to the World Cup in 2019, due to the Tokyo 2020. I am sure the Boulder World Cup will be given high prioritize by the athletes the coming 100 years...
OffLine JLH
  2019-05-24 11:40:33    
World cup is important (since 1999), but what really matters is who is holding it in his/her hands at the end of the season. So several girls (Noguchi, Coxsey...) probably skip some events once they found they have no chances to win it against Janja. Note Nonaka have to participate in Vail, as she needs two bouldering results to have combined score computed (need it for qualification event in Toulouse in case she miss her Olympic spot in Hachioji).

In the following years, bouldering and lead WC competitions would have somewhat lower importance 'thanks' to IFSC decision they will only give one combined medal to lead&bouldering at 2024 OG, while the second medal will be given to solely speed, the least important discipline.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2019-05-24 11:44:53    
The reason why Coxey and Noguchi did skip some relates to their Olympic preperation. I have never heard about any athlete having skipped any event since 1999 just because they could not win overall. It is like saying that we will just have Janja participating in Vail as no other could win.
OffLine JLH
  2019-05-24 12:45:38    
Have you talked with Shauna or are you just guessing? She is two times world cup winner and it's probably bad for her image and self esteem to go to another comp just to find out again there is some other girl who is currently very hard to beat. Besides, I don't think skipping so much major events (Shauna competed only in first two events of the season) is beneficial for anybody's preparation.

Janja doesn't need to be in Vail, at least not to win a world cup...
OffLine Jean-Baptiste Jourjon
  2019-05-24 14:05:17    
Impressive how Olympics have a huge impact on the sport at all levels.
OffLine elMito
  2019-05-24 18:01:14    
Can somebody please explain the rules behind the skipping competition thingy!?
Looks somewhat disrespectful to other competitors and kind of stupid since only the competition can give you that edge and feel you probabily need for top events such as OGs.
OffLine Jason Crank
  2019-05-24 19:53:11    
elMito - if someone is more interested in getting invited to the Olympics than making podium at this year's World Cup, there is some strategy:
20 slots are: 1 from Japan, 1 from Triparte, 5 from continental championships, 7 from World Championship, and 6 from a qualifying event made up of the top 20 World Cup competitors that didn't already get a slot at the Championship.
If you're in a position where you can skip a comp and stay in the top 20, you probably should because you're less likely to get injured before the championship and the olympic qualifier event.
OffLine Jason Crank
  2019-05-24 19:53:12    
....
OffLine Steve
  2019-05-24 23:26:12    
Don't forget that the olympics and perhaps the qualification events consist of three disciplines. Many strong boulderers are not that strong in lead or speed yet. Therefore it makes perfect sense to skip the world cup season in order to have more time for training the other disciplines.
OffLine JLH
  2019-05-26 18:31:47    
Another one missing in Vail will be Alexsey Rubtsov. He has torn his biceps tendon yesterday, so I'm afraid his season and Olympic dreams are over :(
OnLine rai
  2019-05-27 14:44:27    
At Jean-Baptiste: agree with you! OG are already creating big mess around our little sport. We are running the serious risk to see the WC tour becoming a 2nd category championship vs OG. This really sucks and I really don’t see why, in the name of what...?