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Forum: GLOBAL / Editorial / Japan totally superior in Lead and Bouldering in Moscow Login in to contribute
Japan totally superior in Lead and Bouldering in Moscow
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-08-16 00:00:00    
The medal table for Lead and Bouldering from the Youth World Championship in Moscow says it all;

Japan 5 - 1 - 6
Slovenia 1 - 3 - 1
France 1 - 2 - 2
USA 2 - 0 - 0
Complete medal table including Speed.

Also last year the Japanese juniors dominated and the big question is what they are doing differently? Based on what their senior coaches, who are almost as successful, as well as talking to some of the best youngsters, we know that Japan training sticks out with minimum structured and complementary physical training. Basically, their focus is mainly just challenging, with a great team spirit, boulders and routes in different gyms around Tokyo.

Structured and complimentary physical training is, beside yoga and stretching etc, almost non-existing. Instead, they focus on doing boulders in a group meaning they concentrate on technical and tactical training. Noteworthy is that this was the same success recipe that Adam Ondra used when he was a teenager.

It should be noted that runner-up when it comes to medals is Slovenia with just two million inhabitants. They are known for their structured training so obviously there are different possibilities for success.
OffLine Bojan
  2018-08-16 19:15:21    
"...we know that Japan training sticks out with minimum structured and complementary physical training"

If it true they are doing 4 hours stretching per day, they have more(!) complementary training than any other nation...

Besides, considering size of population/no if gyms etc. Slovenian training seems much more effective than Japanese.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-08-16 22:33:46    
What is important to understand is that any approach can work. Trainers and media in general always have a focus on structured training etc. Very seldom you read that just go climbing and have fun is an approach that could suite many. I am sure many youngsters motivation and drive have suffered from a to structured approach.

Further more, I am sure that the Japanese domination would have been stronger if they could send more than four youngsters in each category.
OffLine Jan V'
  2018-08-18 10:42:39    
What about speed? I'd swear speed is one of three disciplines.

Could it be Japan isn't very succesful in speed thus Jens avoids to speak about that? Certainly looks so. Question is - why?
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-08-18 17:11:47    
There are tenth of million climbers but probably less than 100 Speed specialist. I do think that, beside being included in Combined, Speed climbing has a very low interest among the 8a visitors.

Even the world record holder has said it would be more interesting if they changed the format and made new speed routes for every event.
OffLine Kentaro Saito
  2018-08-25 19:16:39    
These are the number of Japanese commercial bouldering gyms.

2008: 96
2009: 114
2010: 151
2011: 200
2012: 230
2013: 280
2014: 343
2015: 370
2016: 420
2017: 500

There are a lot of bouldering gyms in Japan.
They are increasing past ten years.

These 500 commercial gyms suggest there are enough climbers in Japan.
OffLine Kentaro Saito
  2018-08-25 19:39:59    
Moreover, Japanese top 20 youth climbers can use 160 gyms free of charge.
JFA(Japan Free Climbing Association) arranges this system every year.