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Forum: GLOBAL / Editorial / Hidden and blocked holds in Innsbruck Login in to contribute
Hidden and blocked holds in Innsbruck
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-09-10 00:00:00    
The route setting in the World Championship has been based on the modern style with volumes and big holds sometimes with no friction. The new thing in Innsbruck is that sometimes invisible micros have been added creating both better holds but sometimes also blocking holds. The problem for the climbers is they are often impossible to check from below doing observation but also while climbing. As the climbers are not used to this, they do not expect such things in the route reading.

The picture from (c) VladekZumr.com shows the frustration from Adam Ondra just after he did fall probably due to hitting such an invisible blocking micro.
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine Christoph Barthel
  2018-09-10 13:42:12    
"As the climbers are not used to this, they do not expect such things in the route reading." --> I don't think this is true! This is a regular thing nowdays and a nice tool to bring more variation into the world of climbingholds, which is a good thing, as most climbers already know most of the exisiting holds. Last but not least this is ONSIGHT climbing - so the element of surprise is part of it :)
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-09-10 15:00:12    
The number of invisible holds and blocked holds have nevertheless been more than in Innsbruck. Once the athletes get used to it, it will work better but it will slow up the climbing and they will need to climb more statically. I am not sure neither the spectators or the athletes like this in Lead.
OnLine Tom Thudium
  2018-09-10 16:22:53    
I like it. Especially if always the same holds are used. I think Ondra could have seen the blocked screw up he just rushed the move a bit and so the coordination was not right.
OnLine Tom Thudium
  2018-09-10 16:23:06    
I like it. Especially if always the same holds are used. I think Ondra could have seen the blocked screw up he just rushed the move a bit and so the coordination was not right.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-09-10 18:45:49    
There were no way he could have seen that from his angle to the left. Nothing wrong with his coordination. He just grabbed the hold first too high and then too low. Possibly it would have been better to first place his foot higher to make the move more static.
OffLine Miha
  2018-09-11 08:35:35    
I just love how you keep calling it invisible holds. How did you get to see it?
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-09-11 08:49:46    
Do you have a better word for holds that are invisible for the climbers during observation and while they are looking from the next hold?
OffLine Christoph Barthel
  2018-09-11 09:04:35    
Jens, how about asking the actual competitors?
Their insight seems more valuable than our guessing around ...

And doing a dynamic move and ending up on the wrong place, even if it is only the wrong place on the right hold, IS a coordination problem ;)
OffLine Miha
  2018-09-12 09:22:59    
@Jens Huuh... another word you say. What about hidden? Makes a bit more sense right, a hidden hold :D
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-09-12 10:00:47    
I am in constant contact with the athletes and coaches and the guys I am talking to are not so happy with this new style.

@ Miha: Good point :)
OffLine Jakob O
  2018-09-13 13:15:01    
Here's Ondra on that hold: https://youtu.be/dXuJzBDeU2o?t=1377

He's insanely fast in readjusting - watch it at 0.25x speed or you'll miss it - he readjusts *twice* within few frames.

His first attempt was actually too short, hitting the front surface and not behind it. I'm thinking that happened because he saw that the hold is blocked (at least the upper part) and was worried about grabbing too far. It also explains his immediate frustration - he was mad with himself for being sloppy and too hurried on his first attempt.